Help with flushing fluid systems

[transmissions]

So, I'm buying a 95' 4x4 ranger splash for 500 bucks tomorrow, it's in decent condition, the motor ran according to my mechanic friend a month ago, but the truck has been sitting for 3 years and is going to need a lot of work as far as fluid systems and suspension parts.
I'm going to be replacing the fuel lines, brake lines, and springs, wheel bearings, brakes, rotors, calipers, and pads.
First off, how do I flush the fuel, brake, and oil systems?
I know I can drain the coolant and oil from the block, and as long as there is no sludge in the oil, I think that'll be fine.
But how do I clean out the gas lines and everything?
I'm gonna drain the gas tank out, but is there a plug to drain it out from the bottom, or do I have to pump it out?
How do I clean the fuel pump?
How do I clean out the fuel and brake lines?
Should I wait to see if there's gunk and particles inside, and then flush it?
Or should I just flush it out with some type of solvent and drain it?
What type of solvent should I use to flush everything out with?
What are some cheap and decent parts to use for brake lines, rotors, calipers, brake pads, wheel bearings, and anything else you guys think I'd need to replace.
Links would be awesome.
Is the 8.8 explorer axle with disc brakes worth the swap?

 

[transmissions]

Here's a list I compiled of things i'm going to need, any recommendations would be awesome
Fluids
Change:
-Diff fluid
-Tranny fluid
-coolant
-Oil
-Break fluid
-Gas
Lines
-Brake Lines
Hard and soft
-Fuel Lines

Brakes
Pads
Rotors
Calipers
Suspension
Wheel Bearings
Ball Joints
Bushings
Front Leaf Spring Mount
Radius arm mount

 

[97RangerXLT]

I wouldn't worry about the hard brake lines unless they are rusted really bad. Check the soft lines they might need replacing after 3 years of sitting.

Flush the brake fluid by bleeding the brakes starting with the rear pass wheel. Bleed until fresh fluid comes out. Go to rear drivers wheel. Repeat. Go to front pass wheel. Repeat. Go to front drivers wheel. Repeat. You should now have fresh clean brake fluid. Check the calipers and wheel cylinders to make sure the aren't sticking. If they are replace them and the shoes and pads and brake hardware if needed.

Change the oil and transmission fluid (drain and fill only)

Flush the coolant system.

Check the tires really carefully. After sitting 3 years they are probably dry rotted. Replace if needed.

Remove the bed. Takes two guys and a T55 torx bit and a breaker bar. There are 6 bolts to hold the bed on and three 7mm screws to hold the filler neck to the bed. Remove these and unhook the tail light harness by the rear bumper. Lift bed off.

You will probably have to replace the filler neck. 40 bucks on eBay. Check the shackles and spring hangers while you have the bed off and replace if necessary. Clean out the fuel tank and replace the fuel filter.

Now for the gas lines there should be a Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Get a hose that will fit over it and remove the valve core and route th hose into a bucket. Turn the key on until the fuel pump kicks in and pump until you have fresh gas coming out of the hose.

Put everything back together and just drive it and enjoy it. I would not worry too much about any of the other stuff. Fix it as needed.

sent from my Kindle Fire instead of enriching myself by reading a book

 

[Andy D]

You will prolly have to find the fuel pump relay and jump it to get the pump running . Make sure it has the vital fluids and start it. I wouldnt drain anything until you check the systems out. You may want to replace stuff.

 

[tmcalavy]

Removing the bed is the best way to get to the tank. First, do a whiff test of the tank...if it smells like skunky varnish instead of gas you'll want to drop the tank and have it cleaned out. If not, fill it up with fresh high-test and put a can of Sea Foam in the tank, too. The other advice given on fluids is spot on. It's easy to drain the diff...pull the pumpkin cover, new gasket/sealer, re-install and fill with fresh hypoid oil...75WX90W I think.

 

[adsm08]

If you plan to replace the brake and fuel lines why would you worry about flushing them out first?

As for the Ex 8.8 swap, I haven't looked back yet.

 

[transmissions]

I'm going to flush the brake lines, I'm gonna start by draining them, and
if i see particles in them, what type of detergent should I buy?
If the hard lines are salvageable and not rusted out I won't replace them till later.
As for soft lines, where should I buy them, im probably gonna replace all of them.
Have any recommendations on where to buy wheel cylinders?
As for bearings, do I need to replace both of them? I saw a diagram and there are two per wheel, is one just a regular wheel and the other for the locking hubs?
He's throwing in 4 tires from his old truck as well as a tonneau cover that has been inside but aren't dry rotted, so I'm gonna put those on the rims for now just to make sure i can move it safely
The engine has 160k miles, should I use a special type of oil and oil filter for a high mileage engine?
Thanks for the bed info, that's gonna be going on while the oil is draining
He got the truck to run for a few seconds on ether, but im gonna have to flush the gas tank, should I just drop the tank and dump everything out and then flush it with a garden hose?
Also, I have another slight 'problem' the truck was lifted by the previous owner and he doesn't know anything about the kit or mods because he got it on a trade and hasn't done anything since. The only thing I know about the kit is that the parts are painted yellow, and the radius arms say rancho, I'll post more pictures once I get it titled friday, but if anyone knows anything about the kit and can tell me what i'm working with, i'd appreciate it.

If you plan to replace the brake and fuel lines why would you worry about flushing them out first?

As for the Ex 8.8 swap, I haven't looked back yet.

Why should I go for the explorer axle swap? Do they come with a bigger gear ratio? Is it just because they are stronger? Are discs better and cheaper to replace?

 

[transmissions]

Here's a list i compiled of parts, I don't know what size drums and shoes to use yet, but here's what i'm looking at, only problem is that i don't know what pads to get that come with hardware
Deaver F31s
Driver side door
driver side mirror
Tires
Shocks
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ran-rs999034/recommendedparts
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Rancho_RS9000XL_Shock_Eye-Eye_34-20
Get Junkyard f250 shock towers
Springs
http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=306



Camshaft position sensor
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-689-114

Rotors
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-p?navigationPath=L1*14921|L2*16462|L3*15696#

brake calipers -buy in store- Core Charge
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...6-p?navigationPath=L1*14921|L2*16461|L3*15684

Brake Pads: All pads in set NO HARDWARE
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...p?navigationPath=L1*14921|L2*16463#fragment-4

Brake Shoes 10 inch All included
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...p?navigationPath=L1*14921|L2*16463#fragment-2

Brake Shoes 9 Inch all included
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...p?navigationPath=L1*14921|L2*16463#fragment-2

 

[97RangerXLT]

The brake lines... just flush it out with clean brake fluid. that should do the trick.
I would get your brake hardware at rockauto.com. I did my entire rear brake system on my 1994 Intrepid for just a hair over 100 bucks . And that was for 2 drums, 2 wheel cylinders, brake shoe kit, spring and hardware kit. and that also included the shipping.
I personally would replace both wheel cylinders, they are only 10 bucks or so each, and this is the brakes we are talking about. you will have the drum off and the hardware removed for replacement anyways, why not? it would suck to do all that work and find out the wheel cylinder started leaking two weeks later and ruined your new brake shoes.

A quick way to tell if you have 10" or 9" is to look at the drums. If they have fins, they are likely 9". if they are smooth, they are 10". One exception to this would be if the previous owner put Aerostar 10" drums on the truck, then it would have fins, but I am going to guess that you probably have stock drums

The wheel bearings are two per wheel, and both of them are fitted into the rotor. If you are replacing the rotors, they may come with the inner bearing races already pressed in. once you get the rotor and wheel bearings off you will see that they are a tapered bearing and they are fitted facing each other on the rotor. Replace them as a pair and be sure to properly load the bearing and torque it correctly. (do a search on this site, there is a bunch of info on how to do this) also get the bearing dust shield. pretty cheap and you will likely destroy the old one while trying to remove it..

There is a needle bearing inside the spindle that probably should be greased, but it wil involve removing the spindle to do so. This bearing is only used when the hubs are locked in or if you have the the 4x4 engaged or both. so likely the grease has dried up on it.

Hope this helps,

AJ

 

[straycat]

I like that story. 'It was running when I parked it'....lol.....'I parked it then ran lke hell'!!!

 

[transmissions]

your the man 97ranger. i figured flushing itd be like that. ill have to figure out my drums, there was a pack of old brake shoes and the box sitting inside the cab on the floor, ill see if those are the aerostars.
rockauto is probably going to be a bit cheaper, ill prob save 50 bucks if i go that route, but then again ill have to pay shipping and wait, i might just make a grocery list and head up to autozone which is litterally a mile up the road from where the truck is. getting the title done tomorrow and am coasting her down the hill to the garage parkinglot ill be working in im gonna have to do a big price check once i confirm parts.i am definitely going to have to look into the wheel bearings though.