Help with Clutch Master and connecting to clutch pedal through firewall

[moretsky99]

OK, feel pretty stupid here. I pulled my clutch master assembly to bench bleed. I snaked the hoses back and now I seem to be stuck trying to put the last piece of my miserable clutch job back.
The issue is the metal housing that connect the clutch pedal to the Master. There's a metal tube of sorts. The square end is inserted into the pedal housing and then twisted to lock it into place. I did this before last time I did the clutch, but this time I can seem to get it in far enough to be able to twist and lock it down.
What am I doing wrong?
Please help.
Allen
96 manual 5 speed.

 

[pjtoledo]

unfortunately this is going to require you to get a better look at what's happening.
the more uncomfortable and cramped you get the better view you'll get. been there, done that, didn't like it.

sounds like you're doing it right. the cylinder has to be correctly angled, inserted rotated to clear, then rotated to lock.
are you doing this from in the cab or thru the wheel well?

 

[moretsky99]

Thanks so much for replying.
Sometimes I have a person on 1 side of the firewall and someone inside. Have NOT taken off the wheel well shrouding.
I did take off the electrical box to make it easier to put a hand on the master from in the engine compartment.
There's a tab on the piece being inserted into the housing. I've been putting that tab such that it's at the top right from the cab side.
Not sure if that matters. Looks like as long as one has the square inserted into the hole, that's all that matters?

 

[pjtoledo]

the wheel well liner can be frustrating, didn't like doing that either.

 

[RobbieD]

The bummer, is that there's so much stuff that's a lot easier to work on, by removing the wheel well liner.

The clutch master is one of these. You'll be able to not only see everything better, but you'll be able to get more leverage for inserting it.

I've gotten to where I'll drop a liner versus dicking around with things I can't see or handle well enough without doing it.

Liner R&R is a tough nut at first, but it gets easier with repetition. After cleaning up and/or replacing the hardware the first time, I'll grease the screw threads putting back together (for the next time). Another thing I do, when I know I'm going to pull one, is hit the car wash right before and pressure wash as much crap as I can from the inside of the wheel well.

 

[moretsky99]

Just took off the liner. Thanks for the encouragement. It wasn't the job, but thought I had a handle enough on the end of the unit. Now as soon as I get a helper to guide from the cab, I'm hopeful. This one day clutch job has now stretched out to 2 weeks. The truck fought me every step of the way. From pilot bearing removal to bell housing removal and re-install.

 

[moretsky99]

Much easier to get my hands on the back of the device that pokes through the firewall. Still, though I am able to push the piece into the square, I'm never able to push it through enough to be able to twist and lock. Is there some trick? FOr the life of me I can't seem to see what's holding the final 1/4" from pushing through the square hole.

 

[pjtoledo]

just a thought, 1/4" is about the length of the tab at the top of the cylinder.
I have not looked at mine lately. maybe tomorrow.

 

[moretsky99]

The tab is through. Just poking through. I can see the top of the square and it's just poking up through the hole, but needs to go another 1/4 to be able to lock. Just that last piece, but no amount of pushing will do it. There's something holding back. I'll take a file to the housing and see if there a burr or something. I suppose I could remove the housing and try to connect it that way, but hesitant to go that extra step.

 

[Dav]

1995 XLT Ranger. 2.3 Was automatic but switched to 5 speed 4 years ago
I have been fighting with mine for 5 days. Admittedly, 2 were waiting for parts. I am only replacing the master which started pissing DOT 3 on my rug.
The tab goes on top! Found this out the hard way. I replaced the master with something from O'Reilly's that is made in china. Also had to replace the hard plastic line from the master to the slave. Had to pull the pedal bracket (oh such fun....not) and file a bit off it to fit the master. As I reinstalled the bracket a clip appeared that I think goes on the axle for the pedals. Whatever. That is a separate problem.
Now I can't get the quick disconnect to plug into the slave.
So my question is; Does the clip that goes on the slave side of the connection go on before putting the male part in? Is it supposed to need prybars to get the male into the slave? (I have tried with the bleeder open and it still doesn't want to go in).


Went back out to the much cursed truck and the male connector slid right in. Go figure.
So the around the block test drive was successful. The next trip will be about 5 miles, just to be sure.
Only thing left is that 'clip'. I'm not even sure it goes to the truck. Think I've seen something like it on a washing machine.

 

[moretsky99]

The tab thing got me, but finally figured that out.
In the end, I was unable to bleed the slave. I figured it was the master and bend bled that 2x with attending removal and re-install.
Finally I gave up having a need for a 2nd vehicle in my 3 driver household.

So get this. The garage (I've not been to one in so many years) replaced the Master as a first step. When he was still unable to bleed the slave he said he'd have to remove that as well which is pretty much the full clutch job again. Over $1200 for a full clutch replacement! More than I paid for my 1996 Ranger 6 years ago. Thing is he knew enough to first replace the Master with a new one.

 

[pjtoledo]

1995 XLT Ranger. 2.3 Was automatic but switched to 5 speed 4 years ago
I have been fighting with mine for 5 days. Admittedly, 2 were waiting for parts. I am only replacing the master which started pissing DOT 3 on my rug.
The tab goes on top! Found this out the hard way. I replaced the master with something from O'Reilly's that is made in china. Also had to replace the hard plastic line from the master to the slave. Had to pull the pedal bracket (oh such fun....not) and file a bit off it to fit the master. As I reinstalled the bracket a clip appeared that I think goes on the axle for the pedals. Whatever. That is a separate problem.
Now I can't get the quick disconnect to plug into the slave.
So my question is; Does the clip that goes on the slave side of the connection go on before putting the male part in? Is it supposed to need prybars to get the male into the slave? (I have tried with the bleeder open and it still doesn't want to go in).


Went back out to the much cursed truck and the male connector slid right in. Go figure.
So the around the block test drive was successful. The next trip will be about 5 miles, just to be sure.
Only thing left is that 'clip'. I'm not even sure it goes to the truck. Think I've seen something like it on a washing machine.

post a pic of the clip. curious minds want to know if it's the same clip they left out.