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Help with Clutch Master and connecting to clutch pedal through firewall


moretsky99

Forum Member

Joined
Jun 1, 2025
Messages
39
Points
101
Age
76
City
Pensacola area of Florida
State - Country
FL - USA
Vehicle Year
1996
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
2WD
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
Tire Size
14"
OK, feel pretty stupid here. I pulled my clutch master assembly to bench bleed. I snaked the hoses back and now I seem to be stuck trying to put the last piece of my miserable clutch job back.
The issue is the metal housing that connect the clutch pedal to the Master. There's a metal tube of sorts. The square end is inserted into the pedal housing and then twisted to lock it into place. I did this before last time I did the clutch, but this time I can seem to get it in far enough to be able to twist and lock it down.
What am I doing wrong?
Please help.
Allen
96 manual 5 speed.
 
unfortunately this is going to require you to get a better look at what's happening.
the more uncomfortable and cramped you get the better view you'll get. been there, done that, didn't like it.

sounds like you're doing it right. the cylinder has to be correctly angled, inserted rotated to clear, then rotated to lock.
are you doing this from in the cab or thru the wheel well?
 
Thanks so much for replying.
Sometimes I have a person on 1 side of the firewall and someone inside. Have NOT taken off the wheel well shrouding.
I did take off the electrical box to make it easier to put a hand on the master from in the engine compartment.
There's a tab on the piece being inserted into the housing. I've been putting that tab such that it's at the top right from the cab side.
Not sure if that matters. Looks like as long as one has the square inserted into the hole, that's all that matters?
 
the wheel well liner can be frustrating, didn't like doing that either.
 
The bummer, is that there's so much stuff that's a lot easier to work on, by removing the wheel well liner.

The clutch master is one of these. You'll be able to not only see everything better, but you'll be able to get more leverage for inserting it.

I've gotten to where I'll drop a liner versus dicking around with things I can't see or handle well enough without doing it.

Liner R&R is a tough nut at first, but it gets easier with repetition. After cleaning up and/or replacing the hardware the first time, I'll grease the screw threads putting back together (for the next time). Another thing I do, when I know I'm going to pull one, is hit the car wash right before and pressure wash as much crap as I can from the inside of the wheel well.
 
Just took off the liner. Thanks for the encouragement. It wasn't the job, but thought I had a handle enough on the end of the unit. Now as soon as I get a helper to guide from the cab, I'm hopeful. This one day clutch job has now stretched out to 2 weeks. The truck fought me every step of the way. From pilot bearing removal to bell housing removal and re-install.
 

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