Help Wire Fire!!!

[Baja Ranger]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Mo...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a730e1475&vxp=mtr
Just wire in a ballast on the coil and see how well it starts. It may start and run just fine without the start bypass. The white wire to the module retards the timing and will run just fine without. You can add the start wire if you have cold starting issues.

Thanks for replying kimcrwbr1, I have everything I need and will wire it up tomorrow and hope for the best and see what happens. Will try the .8 first, but also havens 1.6 to try if the .8 doesn't work.

It just is running so good after the DS conversion, I wish it would stay running, lol. Plus, the wife is not the happiest about the whole range in general at the moment, even more so that now it's not running.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I checked the specs on both of those coils and they are TFI plug and play telling me they are internally resisted the instructions say nothing about adding ballast.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

It is possible the coil was just bad also I have heard the MSD coils can be problematic. If you still have the stock coil just run it and see how it works? You should be able to get a couple at the bone yard for next to nothing. Any TFI coil will work.

 

[Baja Ranger]

I checked the specs on both of those coils and they are TFI plug and play telling me they are internally resisted the instructions say nothing about adding ballast.

I definitely agree, that is the way the specs look. But, if they are plug and play designed for the factory wiring, I am pretty sure the factory wiring has a resistor built in (note* I have no factory wiring left). I don't know why else it would of got SO hot so quick and burnt out then, it seems all fingers point at adding a ballast resistor.

If I had a box of spare coils, I would wire it again full 12 volts, but I already tried that. I think it would be very stupid of me to wire it the same way again without at least trying something else first.

Also get this, I called MSD direct again (3 times now) and have gotten 3 different answers from 3 different people, WTF is going on over there in the tech department?

 

[Baja Ranger]

It is possible the coil was just bad also I have heard the MSD coils can be problematic. If you still have the stock coil just run it and see how it works? You should be able to get a couple at the bone yard for next to nothing. Any TFI coil will work.

That is my next step i think. Bone yards are pretty scarce around here, so I doubt I can find one unless I am willing to travel. Is the stock TFI motorcraft? All I can find for replacements at local parts stores is Duralast or value something's.

I can't decide to try one of those or just get the round can coil that the full DS conversion calls for, with a ballast resistor ( I know for sure you have to use one with those).

Hopefully this .8 resistor works though...

 

[dangerranger83]

I ran the TFI coil when i did mine and never has any problems, was actually easier to wire up plus while i was at it got a new duralast one from auto zone.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Baja Ranger]

I ran the TFI coil when i did mine and never has any problems, was actually easier to wire up plus while i was at it got a new duralast one from auto zone.

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So you ran duralast C839 with no ballast resistor correct? "with or without" the factory wiring?

 

[Baja Ranger]

Just left napa and talked to a few guys there, they all agree install the ballast resistor. I will let you know what the results....

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Yea to be safe info is kinna sparce from the MSD website the worst that can happen is it will not start or it will run like ass.

 

[Baja Ranger]

Yea to be safe info is kinna sparce from the MSD website the worst that can happen is it will not start or it will run like ass.

That's what I'm hoping, should be easy to identify. MSD's website is definitely lacking, just as their tech department.

Guy's at NAPA also said if if I still have a problem they recommend scrapping the whole MSD coil all together and get the stock duralast, VlaueCraft, or Echlin. I am starting to think the F'n MSD product is the whole reason I am having these problems.

 

[Baja Ranger]

Just for fun,


here is the coil --> http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx?id=5065

here is the msd ballast resistor --> http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Coils/Accessories/8214_-_Coil_Ballast_Resistor_0_8_ohm.aspx

in the description it says " For use with an MSD Blaster Coil when connected to a stock points ignition system."

The coil is labeled a "blaster coil" , so I would think this "is" definetly necessary to use this coil. What do you think?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Just for fun,


here is the coil --> http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx?id=5065

here is the msd ballast resistor --> http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Coils/Accessories/8214_-_Coil_Ballast_Resistor_0_8_ohm.aspx

in the description it says " For use with an MSD Blaster Coil when connected to a stock points ignition system."

The coil is labeled a "blaster coil" , so I would think this "is" definetly necessary to use this coil. What do you think?

Give it a go the reason they had the lower voltage coil was to keep from burning up points. What you can do is run a spark gap test with a spark gap tester. It should jump a gap of at least 3/4 inch brite crisp blue snap. ur gettin close

 

[Baja Ranger]

*UPDATE*

The mother F'er runs great with the ballast resistor, now coil stays cool and the ballast gets hot and absorbs the heat like it is supposed to. Felt confident enough to even take it out in the desert for a bit.

Thanks everyone who has helped with this