HELP= what would you do?

[mkpecor]

i have a 88 2.9 ranger with 168,000 miles on here. well i have a cracked head on here, #1. should i get new heads and all upper motor parts? #2. find wrecked truck with low mile 2.9 and put that in, #3. or rebuild the motor? i just dont want to rebuild the top end because the top end would be new and the bottom would have 168,000 miles on it, so what would you do. thanks

 

[Big Jim M]

I would find a used head and install it with new valve seals on it.. Then when the whiole engine is worn out I'd rebuild it all at once.. You may get another 150K out of her..
Big Jim

 

[Jason]

I would get good quality reman heads. If the bottom lets go then you already have fresh heads which you will need anyhow. If it doesn't go out on you, you come out ahead.

 

[Psychopete]

Based on what my engine went through with cracked heads with only 98K, depending on how long it's been driven with cracked heads, I'd be almost tempted for option #2 if you can find a good/low mile for cheap, especially if they'll warantee it. IMO

You'll have to probably get the head checked out, cost of the head itself, head bolts, head gasket, etc, etc, lower mileage junk yard engine might end up costing about the same. You might compare cost..

Pete

 

[mkpecor]

ya, the person i got the truck from was a woman and she got it new in 88, she or i beet on the truck. its cracked by a exhaust port so the water is going out the tail pipe. i have been driveing the truck, dont think it will hert any thing as long as i keep water in it. so should i just get a set of world heads and call it good? what new parts should i get with the world heads?

 

[MAKG]

To paraphrase AllanD, 2.9Ls are a dime a dozen.

It is ALWAYS cost effective to get a cheap and easily available engine from the junkyard -- even multiple times -- than to do any machine work on it. Even a gasket set and head bolts alone will cost more than a pull-yer-own junkyard engine.

If you must rebuild the top end, you can check the bottom end with the heads off -- check for crosshatch in the cylinder and evidence of blow-by on the piston head (clean around the edges, sludgy in the middle). If it's fine, leave it alone. You might want to inspect crank and rod bearings and replace the oil pan gasket, crank seals, and/or core plugs (all are much cheaper than boring).

 

[Psychopete]

If you must rebuild the top end, you can check the bottom end with the heads off -- check for crosshatch in the cylinder and evidence of blow-by on the piston head (clean around the edges, sludgy in the middle). If it's fine, leave it alone. You might want to inspect crank and rod bearings and replace the oil pan gasket, crank seals, and/or core plugs (all are much cheaper than boring).

This could certainly work, but what scares me about doing this is that little "something" that was missed can come back and just completely destory the engine. There was always the effort, I guess..

He stated in another post that he doesn't want to pull the engine. I would be 50/50 since my back is screwed and I would be able to do a much better job with the engine in front of me on a stand. No wiring/dirt/grime/etc to worry about dropping in on what you're doing.

You'll have $700ish in world heads just by themselves. You could have $300ish in a different engine. Just throwing some opinion out there...

Hell, in the offset in the costs, you could throw in a engine crane, balancer, and stand and probably still come out a head.

Pete

 

[hidesertrat]

Depends on who is going to do the work and what time frame you are looking at. I just went through the same thing: cracked heads, water in the oil.

I didn't drive it once I found what the problem was, as you can ruin the cam bearings and cam. Anyhow once I had the heads off, decided "hell, I am this far, might as well pull the bottom end and rebuild the whole thing while I have it out. Than I know I have a "new" engine in place and should be good-to-go for many more miles. All-in-all, for the machine work, heads, gaskets, headbolts and fluids I ended putting about $1200 into the engine. I did all the wrench turning myself, so there was several hours of labor, a bit of loss skin and the joy of getting personal with my truck.

Knowing all of this, there is one option you didn't mention and I have seen it posted in other posts: Swap out the 2.9 for a 4.0. The cost may be about the same and you end up with a few more horse power. I might have done that, but by the time I thought about it all the machine worked had been done to the engine. I couldn't afford to switch canoes in midstream.

Good luck

 

[mkpecor]

i want to do a 4.0 swap but i dont have time for it, this is my DD right now, and it seems like that swap is a bitch with the wireing and switching colums.

 

[Sunk]

When mine cracked a head, I picked up a '90 2.9 with 105,000 mi already pulled for $250. Swapped it in 2 days, and I'm good so far.

 

[mkpecor]

ya thats what i think im gunna do is find a good 2.9 for sale.

 

[grnrngr]

I lucked out...I found one that had been recently rebuilt, then the truck rolled. Paid $250, runs like a champ.

 

[umpire613]

In my mind you have to think.. how long do you intend to drive the truck. are you looking at a year.. 2 or more.. or is it a lifer.. or you going to trade it 6 weeks

one thing I never wanted to do it throw good money after bad..

if the bottom end has 168k it probabley needs to be freshened.. check you compression in all the other cylinders but the bad one.. do an average.. you at least need a new timing set. they last usually 125k.. at 170 k you probably got a nice ridge but will have to check once it's apart..

you can find a new short block reman for about 540 bucks.. not a bad price cheaper than a set of pistons.. and a new crank and the machine work on your old block and usually with a warranty..

As far as heads goes.. why put on a junk yard special.. by the time you go thru them new valves. springs etc.. you can have 200-300 bucks and then have to pay for magnfluxing them just to make sure..

NO,to me buy a set of new set of world head if you plan to keep the unit it's a no brainer.. worst case.. you use them for a couple of years. freshen them up and sell as used for half the price of new ones..

but hey that's just me

I just finished an new short block, new heads, new exhause and i mean every thing NEW with shipping and the extras..I was at 1300.. a lot of money but we'll keep the truck around for years oh and we put in new clutch all thowe parts etc. etc. so yeah it tipped the 2k bill but it beats 25k for a new one..

 

[mkpecor]

no im not getting rid of this truck, i have wanted this truck the first time i seen it, i was 10 years old, so now in 26 and have it its not going any were. ya i might do a 4.0 swap or just get a new long block.

 

[rickcdewitt]

ya i might do a 4.0 swap or just get a new long block.

it is SO worth it mk.and with your 33" mudders i bet you pick up a mile per gallon or so ditching the overworked 2-9.

for your older truck it might be less work to do the late model dash swap and column with the 4.0l so you only need to figure out the body harness wires-tail lights etc,easy stuff.the door panels will fit your doors too so it will look like a 89-94 inside.