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Help Passing NJ Inspection


HondaEater

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Messages
132
Vehicle Year
1985/1988
Transmission
Manual
So, it's time for me to get the Bronco inspected and im not too convinced shes going to pass, here's why.

-a few months back i was encountering a loss of power, and driveability issues. it ended up being the cat, so i replaced it. during the time the thermactor air valve pretty much exploded on me (im guessing due to excessive backpressure). i still get a rotten eggs burning smell coming from the exhaust like the cat is burning up, does this mean its running lean? i know the timing is set correctly and the igniton advance is too

-i have a high idle sometimes, if im cruising down the highway or in town and throw the clutch in sometimes the idle is super high, but if i rev it itll drop to normal again. does is sound like a sticking throttle plate, a vacuum leak? im not quite sure. someone suggested turning down the idle on the high idle screw, im not even quite sure where it is. besides that the truck runs good. no excessive smoking leading me to believe theres a bunch of blowby.

any ideas would be greatly appreciated. i was thinking of using that guarenteed to pass stuff, im more worried about the high idle and the thermactor air not being present.
 
If the cat is very hot, there is too much fuel getting through the engine without getting burned. Running rich, in other words.
High idle? Clean you MAF / MAS sensor.
 
Where's the maf even located on the 2.8 carbed motor...actually, is there even a maf sensor on it....:icon_confused:
 
lol, there isnt, ur carb needs tuned and or rebuilt/replaced, check for vaccum leaks, throw a vaccum gauge on it and tune it if it doesnt need rebuilt, if it needs rebuilt, rebuild carb, then vaccum gauge, set up to run JUST so as to tippity toe ur way through nj emissions lol, atleast u dont have my problem of a carburated v8 with no cats lol
 
Clean your MAF / MAS sensor.

MAF? MAS? Dude, CARB!!!!




To the OP. Cats can make the rotten egg smell for as little as a week, or as long as a few months.

Run some carb cleaner, even spritz a bit of water out of a spray bottle down the carb throat with the engine hot.

You may also have a float issue. High idle on a carbed engine usually means too much fuel. You may just need to rebuild the sucker.
 
i had a neighbhor (who was a ford master tech in the 80s and early 90s) tune the fuel screw settings, im still getting my feet wet with tuning carbs, luckily i was privledged and born into a world of fuel injection vehicles (est. in '89:thefinger:)

so most likely rebuild the sucker?
 
i had a neighbhor (who was a ford master tech in the 80s and early 90s) tune the fuel screw settings, im still getting my feet wet with tuning carbs, luckily i was privledged and born into a world of fuel injection vehicles (est. in '89:thefinger:)

so most likely rebuild the sucker?

just because it was done by a "master tech" doesnt mean shit, unless he put a vaccum gauge on that carb theres no way its running correctly
 
alright, so i went through emissions and only failed for CO emissions (NOT Co2) at High Idle. And get this, i only failed by a tenth of a point. The standard for the truck was a 1.20, the sniffer picked up 1.32.

So, im thinking of running 93 octance this time, and putting that G2P (Guarenteed To Pass Emissions) stuff in the tank tomorrow and then go back through emissons on Wednesday afternoon.

Like i stated before, i'm not very familiar with carbureators, i know where the enrichement adjustment screws are but i dont really want to mess with them too much because the truck is already so close to passing, so i don't want to touch them and think im leaning it out when im really just making it more rich.

Will the G2P get my Bronco II a new inspection sticker this week?:dntknw: Anyone have an input on this? Thanks!
 
Turn the mixture screws ineach 1/4 - 1/2 turn, pull the PCV valve out of the valve cover and let it breath fresh air from under the hood.
 
It did way worse then it did last time

Original Test :::

Idle :: Reading Standard
HC ppm: 114 220
CO% 1.18 1.20

High Idle :: Reading Standard
HC ppm: 31 220
CO% 1.32 1.20

Retest :::

Idle :: Reading Standard
HC ppm 138 220
CO% 2.81 1.20

High Idle :: Reading Standard
HC ppm 96 220
CO% 1.92 1.20

I put guarenteed 2 pass in the tank and followed the instructions. also did as basilfaulty said and did a 1/2 turn on the mixture screws clockwise. first test was done in 60 degree weather, retest was done in 30 degree weather
any suggestions? im not sure how many times NJ state lets you retest..
 
nj inspections are only emitions now arent they?
 
the issue is with your truck like mine they will run better when its warmer out, well....not better...cleaner perhaps is the word...


ud pass if it was 80 out
 
How many times can i run this thing through inspection? How likely is it that they'll suspended the registration for failed emissions, i see people driving with very old inspection stickers all the time
 

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