HELP ME PLEASE!!! 1988RNGR2.6v64x45SP

[rangerI983v62.8L]

ITS AN 83 RANGER V6 2.8L standard 4x4. I recently changed the jets out as it was suggested here, and it worked great for a while. Now its running crappy again. I am tired of the emission setup of this thing!, cant get it to work because the previous owner chopped up everything. I am begging to think he was somewhat setting it up for duraspark, not sure. I need DURASPARK CONVERSION HOW TO!!. Carburetor as of this moment: autolite 2150. Distributor: non single vacuum(does this have to be changed to a single vacuum?) I read several items on this approach and i am very confused as to what to get and how to splice it all together. One list calls for one thing, another for other things. Please help! what do i need to do the conversion?

thank you!

 

[RonD]

Yes, carb and distributor setups do require repeated attention, there is no "fixing them", there is just "maintaining them".
Not sure what you mean about emission systems.
PCV system helps prevent oil leaks and valve guide seal leaks, by keeping lower pressure in those areas.
EGR system prevents pinging/knocking under load, giving you more power.
Catalytic converters just clean up exhaust gases, there is no "flow restriction" if they are still in good condition.
EVAP system makes sure gas vapor in the fuel tank ends up in the engine instead of the air.

Yes, you have to get a Duraspark distributor.

Good read here on the 2.8l Duraspark conversion: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.shtml

BUT(big but), you may want to do the HEI conversion once you have the Duraspark distributor in hand, simpler and more reliable than Duraspark.

Have a read here: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1311-convert-a-ford-or-chrysler-ignition-to-gm-hei/

 

[rangerI983v62.8L]

reply

Hello and thank you for taking the time to respond. I have made a video as to what is happening on this situation. I will upload it to you tube. I will post the name and link of the video. if you can take a look as to how the carb is acting up and let me know what you think. I will follow up again, once the video if uploaded. thank you!

 

[rangerI983v62.8L]

video uploaded

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb6Jtvo9ybQ, this is the link to the video. the title is "abes 83 ranger after #42jets installed" Please let me know what you think could be the issue of this. Thanks everyone!

 

[RonD]

Just from past experience I doubt a video will help diagnose a carb problem.

If you have already rebuilt it and it doesn't work well, then time to look at new or a professional rebuilt carb.

Good read here on the 2150: http://grantorinosport.org/bubbaf250/carb/carb02.html

Carbs are pretty simple but do have complicated sub systems(add-ons).

EDIT
Just watched the video
I would first check spark timing, SPOUT off and then on
And if possible check each spark wire for steady spark pulse.
Good read here on testing TFI: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

Back firing thru carb can be caused by lean mix if engine is warmed up, cold engine backfire could be caused by lean mix if accelerator pump isn't pushing enough extra fuel in when throttle plate is opened.
Engine doesn't sound like it is flooding out and exhaust isn't blowing smoke for overly rich mix.

 

[rangerI983v62.8L]

how do i adjust the mixture the right way

got it, i am sure i am not adjusting this carb the right way on the mixtures. what is the way to do it?. i have read to turn the needles in all the way, then pull them out "x" amount of times. but a "turn" means exactly what? a full cycle around, or half a cycle around?

thank you very very much!!!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

As far as the choke goes;
On engines I have worked on, not the 2.8 tho, the choke tube goes to the intake manifold close to the carburator. There is an exhaust crossover passage that runs under the carb that helps heat it. That passage can and dose get clogged and then the chock doesn't work anymore. Then people try to fix and break the rusted/rotton manifold connection and then remove the tube. Best fix IMO is to put in a manual choke kit.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Screw them lightly all the way in and then back out 1 1/2 turns. From there turn in until it rough idle/stumbles and back out again for smoothest idle or... using a vacuum gauge to a port below the butterflies - highest vacuum. You have to go from one side to the other back and forth a few times because as you adjust one side the other goes out slightly.
edit - a turn is one full revolution, 360 degrees.

 

[rangerI983v62.8L]

manual choke

that is the plan for today, to install that manual choke. what is your opinion on the needle setting? fullcycle= 1 trn , or 1/2 cycle=1turn?

 

[adsm08]

For the record, this is the proper tool set for working on a carb. Should be the only things you ever need.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

360 degrees = 1 turn

sent while sitting on the throne

 

[RonD]

LOL at Golf Clubs

Although "small" manual tools like those are fairly old school since the invention of C4 plastic explosive.
Uncommon Valor(movie) quote: "Most human problems can be solved by an appropriate charge of high explosives."


But back to the problem, "one turn" is one turn, one full rotation of the screw.
If you put a mark on the side of the screw head you turn the screw around until that mark comes back to where it was, that equals "one turn"

 

[rangerI983v62.8L]

what a hell!!??

so, i am trying to adjust the needles. I get 16in in my vacumm gauge( and it goes back and forth just a bit. ) when i give it gas it back fires, not as much as it did, but it struggles and back fires. i will make a video shortly and upload to you tube once again. any input is welcome!!

thank you

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Did you rebuild the carb? Did you replace the accelerator pump seal and make sure it is operating correctly? Old carbs [not yours, just fyi ] used leather seal and they could dry out and cause problems with backfire on acceleration. If the carb is old the accel.pump well could be corroded enough to show the same symptoms.

Richard

 

[RonD]

so, i am trying to adjust the needles. I get 16in in my vacumm gauge( and it goes back and forth just a bit. ) when i give it gas it back fires, not as much as it did, but it struggles and back fires. i will make a video shortly and upload to you tube once again. any input is welcome!!

thank you

16" vacuum is on the low side, 17"-21" is expected

Engine needs to be warmed up before adjusting those screws.
Choke plate needs to be open all the way, prop it open if needed

Idle should be 700-750 RPMs, if idle is higher vacuum will be lower, vacuum is created by the throttle plate being closed as much as possible
You start with mixture screws 1 and 1/2 turns out
To adjust warmed up engine:
Turn EACH screw 1/4 turn in the same direction, doesn't matter which way, that's what you are trying to determine, but both need to be turned the same way.
Check vacuum reading, high vacuum number is what you want, if RPMs go up lower them again with idle screw.
Adjust mix screws again, check vacuum