Help me fix my truck!

[Mark_88]

My truck is has a carb...never was FI.

Takes much less time to strip it down...especially without P/S or A/C in the way. Alternator is on the other side with just three bolts to pull the top bracket off...bottom bracket I usually leave on the block since it doesn't get in the way.

 

[RonD]

No TB? How is that possible?

Hmmm i did the degrees without a degree gauge/reader on my torque wrench, i know some of them have it. I'll just use the Haynes manual specs like you did, i feel much more comfortable using a more precise measurement as opposed to eyeballing 3 oclock to 6 oclock etc.

You need to use the degrees.

Or use the old style head bolts or studs.

There are two main reason stretch bolts are used now.
1. Machines assemble engines at "the factory" now, calibrating torque and keeping it calibrated would be a nightmare so pointless to use a machine to do it, but machines can do fixed degrees quite easily, little or no calibration needed.

2. If you remember back a few years, when you redid head gaskets and torqued heads down, you had to re-torque the bolts after 500-1,000 miles of operation, real PITA, don't have to do that with stretch bolts.

You don't need degrees on the torque wrench, point wrench at master cylinder rotate until it points at the passenger side headlight, repeat for each bolt.

 

[MAV17]

Quick update:

about half way done pulling the head off.

went to drain the radiator, and it was completely dry

i filled the thing to the rim with 50/50 a week ago and i constantly checked underneath the truck for leaks

i take it that since my HG was blown, all my coolant went into the cylinders and that's where all the white smoke was coming from. my temp gauge never went past the middle mark though and i made sure to constantly keep an eye on it. maybe i got the harness plugs mixed up? 4 of those plugs in the front are identical. 2 of them are black and the other two are orange-ish.

 

[Mark_88]

That would also explain the rough running and knocking...

That's how I cracked my $600 head...it actually run fine after that once it cooled down and I topped up the rad...but then the oil consumption went whacko...

So...if you don't have a replacement head it's probably a good time to make sure you have one...I'd highly recommend to have it checked for cracks (magnaflux tested???) and milled...

Anyway...thanks for the update...

 

[MAV17]

That would also explain the rough running and knocking...

That's how I cracked my $600 head...it actually run fine after that once it cooled down and I topped up the rad...but then the oil consumption went whacko...

So...if you don't have a replacement head it's probably a good time to make sure you have one...I'd highly recommend to have it checked for cracks (magnaflux tested???) and milled...

Anyway...thanks for the update...

Thank YOU guys for responding and helping so promptly!

This may be a stupid Q but is there SUPPOSED to be oil running through those 2 metal lines that hook up to the radiator? I take it they run through there to cool down oil for the motor or maybe the tranny? Never seen anything like it.

Well i'll be done pulling the head in just a couple of hours and if the bottom end seems to be in good shape, i'm gonna go ahead and purchase a fully assembled used head from an auto parts store not too far from me. I'll have it checked and magnafluxed as well.

 

[adsm08]

Yes, the metal lines into tge side of the rad are the trans cooler.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[Mark_88]

Well, now that you mention it...no...but I think it could be used for engine oil....they are transmission cooling lines but with a bit of modification...and I think someone on here actually posted a "how to" for a 2.3 extended oil cooling system...

I would imagine that if they've rebuilt the head already it would have been tested already for cracks so it should just be a plop on (gently) and bolt down deal. If they didn't test it they wouldn't be in the used head business very long.

You could always ask just to make sure...maybe find out if they do the work or send the head out for machining...

And another thing...I've read quite a bit about milling the head more than usual to give the truck a bit more bang...apparently really wakes up the little 4 bangers...that and a better cam would have the engine smoking...your tires...

I've been thinking of going that route this time around...but using a roller cam head (as yours will have if it is a post 88 Ranger head)...

 

[MAV17]

Not sure if it's a rebuilt head that they rebuilt themselves or just a cleaned up low mileage used head... i'm leaning more towards the later but either way, a trip to the machine shop and 90-day warranty has me sold. Plus they sounded like good guys over the phone so i'm pretty confident on the deal. $250 for an assembled head.

Okay so the head is off. couple things:
-i found oil in the intake mani, both upper and lower, is that normal?

-the head is cracked in even more places now. big hairline crack going from near the #2 cylinder valves and almost all the way up to and over the side of the head.

-there is what seems to be rusted iron dust on top of the #3 piston, i'm guessing it came off the bottom of the valves from the overheating?

-all of the lifters and rocker arms seem to be in place... strange...? i figured the ticking noise was surely from that thrown rocker arm again. but nothing seems thrown....

-also i was a fool and never connected the coolant temp sender that sits in the block near the oil filter... i knew there was something strange about my temperature readings. it never went up past the C most of the time and when it did, it would do it sporadically.
i was probably overheating the piss out of the poor thing.

 

[Mark_88]

Overheating would pretty much explain everything and in conjunction with the crack in the head (worsened from overheating) I wouldn't be surprised to find oil in the intake. It usually gets drawn up through the valve cover vent into the intake in small quantities (unless yours routes through the air filter box) or the PCV valve (that you didn't have connected) can allow oil into the intake...but overheating and big cracks usually mean oil seepage.

But, as they say, that's all coolant under the bridge...they can be pretty messy when they self destruct and finding parts of your bottom end in the oil wouldn't surprise me...I think Adsm08 suggested cutting the oil filter and inspecting the contents...if you have time...and/or drain the oil and drag a magnet through it...if you find any big pieces I'd be a bit leery of dropping a fresh head onto it without having it at least inspected or doing the inspection yourself if you feel comfortable.

I've made the mistake of overkill on a new head and putting it on a worn short block...the bottom end goes out if it is not top shape...

I guess this is just more good news for you...but if I had to do it all over again (like maybe next month) I would not drop another engine into my Ranger without taking as many precautions as possible to avoid a repeat of what I've been through in the last five years with mine...

If you meet any oil executive children with a University degree tell them I said hello and I hope they did well on the tuition I covered for them with my oil burner 2.3!

 

[MAV17]

I did the push-down test on the piston/rod and there isn't much downwards play as there is side to side play. Only in piston two and three though, #1 and #4 seem to have no play at all not even side to side. But #2 has it to where you can hear it knock side to side, and #3, can't really hear the play but you can feel it. Would slapping a fresh head be a waste of time or will i still be able to drive this thing around for at least a couple more months even if it means driving like a grandma?

 

[Mark_88]

I didn't read you new thread yet...but I would say that as long as the motor starts, revs, and doesn't blow any oil (with a rebuilt head) you could probably drive it for another year if you had to...just a matter of how much oil it will burn or blow due to sloppy pistons.

I've been driving mine for about a year since I cracked the head (the short block is shot) and after putting a rebuilt head on in February it has been performing rather well...it smokes, blows oil, and rattles like crazy sometimes...stalls (recently) when I am in traffic, and feels like it is running at about 70% of the amazing 88 or so HP that it is supposed to have on a good day...

But it still starts...even in the coldest days (OK, I have a block heater) and will go all day long if needed...

So, the long answer is yes!

 

[MAV17]

I didn't read you new thread yet...but I would say that as long as the motor starts, revs, and doesn't blow any oil (with a rebuilt head) you could probably drive it for another year if you had to...just a matter of how much oil it will burn or blow due to sloppy pistons.

I've been driving mine for about a year since I cracked the head (the short block is shot) and after putting a rebuilt head on in February it has been performing rather well...it smokes, blows oil, and rattles like crazy sometimes...stalls (recently) when I am in traffic, and feels like it is running at about 70% of the amazing 88 or so HP that it is supposed to have on a good day...

But it still starts...even in the coldest days (OK, I have a block heater) and will go all day long if needed...

So, the long answer is yes!

i don't think i made a new thread! haha

cracked head and shot short block?! shit okay that's wayyyy beyond my expectations so i'm going for it! god bless your truck man. i went out to mess with it again and all the pistons actually have a bit of rock back and forth like in a see-saw kinda motion. is this normal? one piston is a bit chipped as well....

i bought this ranger as a work truck so as long as i can go a couple months where i can save up a couple grand and buy me maybe a bit newer and better condition/lower mileage ranger... i'll be happy.

thanks again for the confidence boost mark!

 

[Mark_88]

Well, I just had to rep you for blessing my truck...lol

My 2.0 ran for about 2 years with #1 piston having a big chunk out of the top...well, maybe not a big chunk...but when I pulled the head the first time I thought "AHA, that's why it's blowing oil"...but it was only a small part of the big problem.

The short block 2.3 I ended up putting in had no wiggle at all and only had 140,000 Km on the clock...I thought it was great...and it ran great for about a year until I cooked it again (bad rad)...then I could only afford swapping the head because I thought that was the main problem...and the pistons where still tight when I swapped the head in February...

But I pushed it hard and ran it dry a few times before the smoke started again...been running 20W50 oil in it (yes, winter also) but take great pains to heat it up before even starting it in the winter...even though the oil is not getting much heat...thought of putting an oil pan heater for that but also decided it was time to swap it out.

Anyway...if you go whole hog at this point and swap out the head and block you'd probably be doing yourself a huge favour and forgo having to do it all again in a year or two...unless, of course, you like doing this sort of thing...

 

[adsm08]

The piston shouldn't have much slop in it's bore. Without micing the cylinder it's hard to say how bad it might be.

When you get it all back together run it for a day and then do a compression test. That should give you an idea of how much trouble you may be in.

 

[MAV17]

But I pushed it hard and ran it dry a few times before the smoke started again...been running 20W50 oil in it (yes, winter also) but take great pains to heat it up before even starting it in the winter...even though the oil is not getting much heat...thought of putting an oil pan heater for that but also decided it was time to swap it out.

Anyway...if you go whole hog at this point and swap out the head and block you'd probably be doing yourself a huge favour and forgo having to do it all again in a year or two...unless, of course, you like doing this sort of thing...

Wish i could swap the whole thing out but i'll be lucky if i have enough dough for a new top end gasket set and head bolts to get this thing going. But then again I DO kind sorta like this kinda stuff. Not enough to do it as a job but as a hobby... can't think of many things more gratifying .

what numbers should i be looking for when i do the comp test? and i'm probably stating the obvious but i only need to hook up the compression gauge to ONE of the spark plug holes right? And just leave the other spark plug in? Doesn't matter which side i use? Never done a comp test on a dual plug head...