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Help (I have beat myself senseless)


rsheppard

Member
Law Enforcement
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Jan 31, 2021
Messages
6
City
Edmonton Ky
Vehicle Year
1993
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
My credo
Preventive Maintenance really goes a long way
1993 Ford Ranger 2.3 liter 4 cylinder 5 speed, Things I have done 0) Check grounds 1) New Battery (old was at 10 volts.) 2) New Starter 3) Check pesky clutch switch. I seem to remember dual solenoid I have climbed all over firewall and underside. Nothing. What truck is doing attempt start without clutch of course nothing, Clutch then attempt start "CLICK" then nothing she is a plain janer no electrical windows/locks nothing of that nature to short and throw drain. Well had a "Fancy" that is what taught me, more electrical bs the more that goes wrong. I am at a loss 2 things Location 2nd solenoid why no start.
 
Do the headlights work? If they do, turn them on and watch them while you turn the key and try to start it. It may be easier to get another person to turn the keyswitch or watch the lights for you.

When you turn the key do the headlights go out or almost go out? Or do they stay fairly bright when you hear the click and it doesn't start? What we are doing is using the headlights as a crude voltmeter to determine what is wrong.
 
I see where franklin is going... but honestly... if you don't have a DMM... you just need to buy one. They're cheap and it's hard to work on a vehicle without one.

Google voltage drop testing and take an hour to understand what it is and how it works. Then take your DMM and your new found knowledge to the vehicle and start testing. Chances are you will find some high resistance someplace in the battery cables. It is a pretty common and fits your symptoms.
 
As stated, it really sounds like a loose or dirty connection. As far as solenoids, you only have one and it should be on the starter itself. This is energized by the started relay which is energized by the key switch. The starter relay is usually mounted to the inner fender in the engine compartment. On my 93, it is on the driver side near the fuse/relay box.
 
I'd check for power at the output side of what Eric is calling the starter relay, I'd call it a solenoid, and at the starter mounted solenoid when turning the key. The relay makes a click when energized but may not be sending voltage to the starter. And make sure all the grounds are clean and tight on the body, frame, and engine. Was it bothering intermittently at first or did the problem just appear?
 
ahhhhh the relay/solenoid debate.

Relay... electrical switch.

Solenoid... provides mechanical movement.

9 times out of ten that description works. Auto manufacturers tend to name things whatever they want... the debate continue.

I feel that it is a relay... but Ford named it a Solenoid.
 
ahhhhh the relay/solenoid debate.

Relay... electrical switch.

Solenoid... provides mechanical movement.

9 times out of ten that description works. Auto manufacturers tend to name things whatever they want... the debate continue.

I feel that it is a relay... but Ford named it a Solenoid.

Just like the electron flow debate. Officially dc current flows from negative to positive. But forget that. Most diagrams are setup with the logic of the circuit flowing from positive to negative. Best to think of dc current flowing from + to - for troubleshooting purposes and to avoid confusion.
 
I wasn't trying to start or continue a debate. Personally, I believe that a relay is one or more sets of switch contacts being operated by a solenoid, all contained in one enclosure. But hey, I've only been messing with them for about 40 years. I understand and accept that in the automotive world, the terms are often interchanged. But it helps clarify communications if everyone knows which part we're talking about.
 
There should be another relay screwed to the inner fender around where your under hood fuse panel is, it sounds to me like that may be bad. all that it does in a 93 is feed the starter solenoid when the key is turned, the main power to the starter is not controlled by it.
 
ERICBPHOTO SAID::As stated, it really sounds like a loose or dirty connection. As far as solenoids, you only have one and it should be on the starter itself. This is energized by the started relay which is energized by the key switch. The starter relay is usually mounted to the inner fender in the engine compartment. On my 93, it is on the driver side near the fuse/relay box. Tell ya what I replaced everything from relay solenoid to the starter, new battery, After work 2/6/21 I took a set of deep well sockets, rechecked positive leads including grounds, all were tight and good. Tried to start it turned over then stopped. Went back under hood was tapping positive terminal with 1/4 in drive ratchet, and thinking aloud, I did not know I left key in on position to my surprise, dings and beeps, Jumped in started up, and it did several times after. Corrosion wire side of terminals? I might have to change my terminals. Other than ECU and ignition cylinder and terminals Pretty much all new electrical wise. in the line of starting anyhow. HEY EVERYONE THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH......
 

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