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Help! Clicking sound after new plugs and timing belt


Jimbo45

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Dec 16, 2011
Messages
77
Vehicle Year
95 Ranger 2.3L
Transmission
Manual
Engine: 1995 2.3L, 80,000 miles.

Man, I just spent the past two nights installing new double platinum plugs, new Gates timing belt and TB tensioner, thermostat, temp sender, PCV valve, and a new accesory belt.

I am a fairly experienced hobby mechanic, and I followed instructions for the TB closely, and am pretty confident the timing is good. The cam sprocket/pulley pointer was off (advanced about 1/8") from the housing pointer, when the crank was at TDC and oil pump sprocket/pulley lined up. But, I know all three don't necessarily line up perfectly, on all trucks, plus, it appeared to be off by the same amount with the old belt, before I took it off.

Starting it up, it made some noise for just a few seconds, then quieted to a distinct click at cam and firing speed. It runs fine, and seems to have normal power on the short test drive I did. It just clicks or ticks pretty loud. The sound is a single slow click, every revolution of the cam, or firing of one of the cylinders, and is consistent in sound. The click gets nearly unnoticeable as RPM increases. I can't really hear it when 40 MPH or above, but is noticeable as I slow from there.

I first suspected it was from either the cam sprocket/pulley or oil pump sprocket/pulley's rearward depressed notch, hitting something on the plastic shroud housing, as they turn. But, it sounds more like it is coming from the front of the head, maybe more on the passenger side. It also seems loud if I stick my head under the passenger side, behind the front wheel.

I don't think its an exhaust leak, this is more of a distinct and sharp click. I suppose it could be a spark plug leak, but sounds more metallic, like too much clearance in a valve.

Anyone with ideas? I wish it wasn't so late....I would go buy an automotive stethoscope and try to zero in on the noise. Man, after all that work, I just knew it would be too good to be true, to just fire it up and not have any issues. :annoyed:

On the plus side, I did apparently fix the thermostat housing leak, by resurfacing the Tstat housing and using a Fel-pro neverleak gasket! And, it sure warms up quicker and stays there, with the new Motorcraft Tstat!

Man, I need to figure this out, so I can put the new shocks, leaf spring hangers and shackles on, that I received yesterday.
 
start with the plug wires. sounds like one is not pushed onto the spark plug completely.

just did an inspection on a BMW where someone installed plug wires onto plugs, but didn't take off the little adapters so the wires were just sitting on the plug loosely.

the arcing sounded just like lifters ticking and the engine ran just fine. all i had to do was remove the adapters so the plug wires fit securely and it was fixed
 
Are you sure you torqued up the cam pulley bolt to the correct torque? I've seen it more than once and it sounds like lifters out of adjustment. The other thing to watch is that the belt does not jump a tooth or more when you are tightening the cam pulley bolt.
 
Did you check/change the oil recently?

I just had what sounded like a drum quartet synchronized under my hood...low oil...

But it certainly could be plug wires or a shroud hitting something...especially plugs or arching...I'd try testing it in the dark for arching...but check the oil level just in case...and pry up a bit on the belt cover...very close tolerance on that.

EDIT: not sure about the 95 head, but I now know my 89 Mustang head does NOT have any lash adjustment...
 
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Thanks for the help guys.

But, as luck would have it, God must have been bored last night. Because, apparently, he was fixing my truck while I slept. I got up early this morning, after searching the net and stewing about that sound half the night. I was headed to the auto parts store to try to find an automotive stethoscope. It was about 17 degrees and starting to snow, and I fired the little Ranger up. Um, no ticking! What? I thought, well maybe the fast idle is hiding the sound, right. So, I let it warm up fully in the drive while I cleaned up my mess in the garage. Went back out, and still no ticking! Yay! I drove it around for a while, and all seems well now, and it runs like a champ!

The only thing I can think of, was that by manually cranking it over many time, to set the timing belt tension, and letting is sit a couple nights after, one of the lifters was compressed, and the oil pumped out, maybe? Upon startup, it didn't fill up with oil quite enough, and after it sat all night, it somehow filled with oil? I know that is a stretch, but I can't figure any other reason. Anyway, its fine now and I am thrilled.

So, I went ahead and bolted on the new (used Explorer wheels) and tires. Man, what a difference that made in appearance...

From:

100_3463.jpg


To:

100_3489-1.jpg


So, now I have this huge box of leaf spring hangers and shocks to put on later this week! Then, re paint the hood and front fenders, and this will be a pretty nice beater!

100_3492.jpg
 
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Good to hear it corrected itself...mine did...only after I removed the valve cover to see WTF was rattling...and I had just got a new $50 rubber gasket to stop a major oil leak...theu stretch a bit when heated so I thought it would leak again...so far not.

Are the original tires 14"?

Makes a big difference going from 14 to 15...that was one of my first mods...
 
Are the original tires 14"?

Makes a big difference going from 14 to 15...that was one of my first mods...

Yeah, the ones on it when I got it, were 14"s. But, looking at the door build sticker, it came with 15"s originally, so not sure why the guy I bought it from (origianl owner) would have down sized!?
 
nice wheels:icon_thumby:

oh and your truck is sayin' "who you callin' a beater?":D
 
wheels make the vehicle... Nice work... Youll love how the clean fenders and hood make a huge differance.

I bought my truck with the roof and hood pealing.
IMG_0232.jpg


then after a little sanding and some rustoleum black spray cans
IMG_0260.jpg
 
wheels make the vehicle... Nice work... Youll love how the clean fenders and hood make a huge differance.

I bought my truck with the roof and hood pealing.
IMG_0232.jpg


then after a little sanding and some rustoleum black spray cans
IMG_0260.jpg

Nice...looks like the same rims I have on my truck...

Mine were peeling so I had them sand blasted and prime painted...then rattle can blue...they look pretty good now...haven't had to repaint them for six years or so...but, then again, it sat for five of those years...
 
I found out what was the ticking or clicking noise. My teacher, a automotive technician told me that after doing the timing belt on these trucks, the oil comes all the way down because youre positioning the crankshaft,camshaft and the oil pump sprockets, basically the engine oil puddles on the lower part of the engine and after the first start, the ticking will come because theres no oil on the lifters, etc. The oil is working its way to the upper part of the engine...the ticking will go away after 1 or 2 hours depending on how much time it took you to do the timing.
 
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I found out what was the ticking or clicking noise. My teacher, a automotive technician told me that after doing the timing belt on these trucks, the oil comes all the way down because youre positioning the crankshaft,camshaft and the oil pump sprockets, basically the engine oil puddles on the lower part of the engine and after the first start, the ticking will come because theres no oil on the lifters, etc. The oil is working its way to the upper part of the engine...the ticking will go away after 1 or 2 hours depending on how much time it took you to do the timing.

the lifters should pump up a few seconds after your engine starts.

new lifters that have air trapped in them might take a couple hours.

you might have an oil pressure problem.
 

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