Help clearing some codes, please

[scooterspal]

Picked up a '97 Ranger XLT, 4.0 liter, 4x4 with 5-speed standard transmission.

I do not have a check engine light on but checking with my tester I find 4 codes that I will need to address before I go to emissions next time.

Any help locating and fixing these will be appreciated.

P0401 Exhaust gas recirculation insufficient: The kid who had this before me has done something to the exhaust. The pipe stops just before the cargo area. I assume it should lead all the way out the back?? There is a two stage exhaust under there towards the front. Is this correct?

P1443: Evap emissions purge valve malfunction:
Any thoughts on what to look for and where?

P0171 & P0174: Bank 1, Bank 2 too lean: Again, he has one of those cone shaped after-market air cleaners on the end of the front "hose". He said to get better mileage but wonder if this is creating a too lean condition??

Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

[RonD]

401 has to do with the EGR valve or activation of that valve.
And a problem with this could cause the 171/174 codes

The EGR valve and tube can be cleaned and that should be the first step.
Normally the EGR opens at higher RPMs when engine is under load, this exhaust gas coming into the intake helps cool the cylinders and lower emmissions.
If EGR valve sticks open a little the exhaust gas causes a lean condition, almost like a vacuum leak.


Good thread here on EVAP with pictures
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89253

 

[scooterspal]

Thanks for the reply and the link. Will see if mine is stuck open when off the vehicle.

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

Egr

Thanks for the reply and the link. Will see if mine is stuck open when off the vehicle.

Like Ron said...take a good look at the lines and vacuum hoses associated with the EGR components to be sure you don't have something plugged up. They can get pretty gunked up after some time and cause issues. Keep in mind the valve is not the sole participant, you also have control and feedback...EVR solenoid and DPFE involvement.

 

[adsm08]

If the check engine light comes on when you push the key to run but don't start the engine, but stays off with it running I would clear the codes and drive it for a week, then recheck with your reader.

 

[scooterspal]

The EGR valve and tube can be cleaned and that should be the first step.
Normally the EGR opens at higher RPMs when engine is under load, this exhaust gas coming into the intake helps cool the cylinders and lower emissions.
If EGR valve sticks open a little the exhaust gas causes a lean condition, almost like a vacuum leak.

I'm confused. The article you referenced shows a picture of the EGR solenoid. Small hanging metal can with a T connection at the top. One side goes to the carbon box (?) up front and the other to the EGR sensor and on to the intake.

I checked the solenoid and, with no power, it is closed (cannot blow air through it)... as it should be according to that article.

I did find some rather tenuous connections with the vacuum hoses... the short 2 and 3" pieces connecting all these components together and I replaced them with new hose. The one to the port on the intake was very rotted and came off easily. The end was well flared.

I reset all the codes and so far they have not come back. I have not driven over 40 so far so it may not have kicked in yet.

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

I'm confused. The article you referenced shows a picture of the EGR solenoid. Small hanging metal can with a T connection at the top. One side goes to the carbon box (?) up front and the other to the EGR sensor and on to the intake.

Keep in mind the EVAP and EGR are two separate systems. The thread referenced was EVAP and not EGR related. The charcoal canister box is part of the EVAP along with purge valve and solenoid.

 

[scooterspal]

Keep in mind the EVAP and EGR are two separate systems. The thread referenced was EVAP and not EGR related. The charcoal canister box is part of the EVAP along with purge valve and solenoid.

OK. I see now. Here is the pic of my "evap" system. The solenoid is on the right and the purge valve is on the left. Is this correct? These are the hoses I have replaced.

Here is my EGR valve...

What is it I need to do here? Remove it (the two bolts underneath I assume) and clean it or replace it completely? The "tube" they speak of... is that the long metal one on the left going up?

Thanks

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

You may want to give it a couple of weeks and see if any codes return.

Some folks might consider changing out an old EGR proactively but that depends on how much money you want to invest in the truck. You can test the valve to see if it actuates and holds vacuum ok.

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

What is it I need to do here? Remove it (the two bolts underneath I assume) and clean it or replace it completely? The "tube" they speak of... is that the long metal one on the left going up?

Thanks

That is the tube that routes the exhaust gases yes. If I were going to remove the EGR for cleaning...I'd probably just put a new one on (depending on cost)...Some valves can get pretty pricey.

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

You want to closely examine all the vacuum lines to be sure they haven't rubbed a hole thru or somehow got pinched or damaged. The vacuum lines for the EGR can get contaminated and plugged with crap from the exhaust gases so check them for that also. Replace any suspect vacuum hoses.