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Help and Insights on a 2013 Explorer - Ford Techs and other opinions appreciated


G8orFord

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Mar 31, 2019
Messages
814
City
FL
Vehicle Year
2001
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
Just the right size to touch the ground.
Last edited:
Steering gears, water pumps, and evap purge valves are the biggest mechanical issues I see on these things. The rack itself is an expensive part, but they aren't an every-day thing. The water pump isn't super common either, but when they go they are expensive/time consuming to replace because they are driven by the timing chain.

Since it is at a Ford dealer I'd ask if it was regularly serviced there, and try to find out about those two bigger things.

The purge valves we used to see regularly, but they have slowed down a good bit. They also are cheap to buy and easy to find and fix. Diagnosing a bad one is as simple as unhooking it and holding your finger over the end with the engine running, any vacuum felt and it is leaking. Replacing it is two 8mm bolts and pull it out.

The only other thing I can think of at that mileage is the rear wheel bearings. Someone at Ford said "lets put a steel bearing in an aluminum knuckle". Everyone else said "Oh yeah, that's a great idea, no problem there." So if you are in a corrosion area be aware that the need for a rear wheel bearing may come with a surprise ~$300 for a knuckle too when they can't get the bearing out.
 
Steering gears, water pumps, and evap purge valves are the biggest mechanical issues I see on these things. The rack itself is an expensive part, but they aren't an every-day thing. The water pump isn't super common either, but when they go they are expensive/time consuming to replace because they are driven by the timing chain.

Since it is at a Ford dealer I'd ask if it was regularly serviced there, and try to find out about those two bigger things.

The purge valves we used to see regularly, but they have slowed down a good bit. They also are cheap to buy and easy to find and fix. Diagnosing a bad one is as simple as unhooking it and holding your finger over the end with the engine running, any vacuum felt and it is leaking. Replacing it is two 8mm bolts and pull it out.

The only other thing I can think of at that mileage is the rear wheel bearings. Someone at Ford said "lets put a steel bearing in an aluminum knuckle". Everyone else said "Oh yeah, that's a great idea, no problem there." So if you are in a corrosion area be aware that the need for a rear wheel bearing may come with a surprise ~$300 for a knuckle too when they can't get the bearing out.
Thanks @adsm08 that's exactly the kind of information I was looking for.
 

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