help 97 contour timing belt

[98blownranger]

any tips, how do I time the motor , I plan to replace the belt and water pump. it has a 4cyl. same motor as the escort ZX2

thanks

 

[Copytech]

Use the online guides from Autozone.

http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleI...pping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a89b6

 

[98blownranger]

thanks didn't know about there site

 

[kunar]

http://teamzx2.com/showthread.php?t=117

 

[snake]

I've done 100's of timing belts over the years. Some of the ford engines don't use very obvious timing marks, the last I did was a 2000 escort. The marks were supposedly under the valve cover for the cams... I was unwilling to pull the cover just to see. I just lined up the crank pully on TDC (that mark was a beast to find as well) and then marked everything with touch-up paint before I took it apart. My advice is to mark everything in more than one place to be sure. I have one of those (timing belt) alldata books for damn near every car if you get stumped. The bitch on the escort was keeping the belt tight against both cam pulleys while lining them up with each other and the crank while trying to slip the belt on, as well as that goofy tensioner. The cams wanted to move because of the valve springs... Had help from a experienced friend and it still took several tries.

 

[97DangerRanger]

I had to replace the timing belt on my 97 ranger with the 2.3 i second marking the stuff it took a while to retime mine becasue the belt broke and there were not any real timing marks that i could see so be careful when you take it apart. and i dont know its on your or if my motor is wierd but there was more then one set of marks that were different so watch for that.

 

[Earl43P]

Kunar and snake, you guys rock.

Buddy brought me a 99 Mystique w/ bad WP and it keeps shredding the timing belt (Carquest here in town has replaced this timing belt 3x).

I pull it all apart (no book), belt intact and spray painted the cam sprockets w/ 3 masking tape lines. Change out the WP, new timing belt still walks (runs and idled for 8-10 seconds, no serp). Removed tensioner, bolt eccentric looks hinky, throw a new one on.

Wrestle the cams, belt, tensioner, etc. alone, finally got it. Back together, won't idle or stay running unless >2k rpm. Come here, find this thread, read Kunar's link, I'm golden now. Would've NEVER thought to pull the valve cover off and never heard tell of any such flat bar tool. Nice. Thanks.

Chuckled when I read snake's tale. Great minds think alike (paint). So, I quit on this for the day, but I'm having the guy who's daughter drive's this car come and help me tomorrow. Job definitely needs three hands!

I'm gonna throw Mystique ZTec 2.0 in here for future searchers. I found this thread using "Contour". I love this site.

 

[Earl43P]

Still can't get this POS into time.

I have crank at TDC, verified through the spark plug hole, the crank keyway at 12:00 and the crank pulley even has a mark, which is lined up.

Got the valve cover off, properly lined up the cams, using a flat bar and some feeler's gages to make it precise. Piece of cake so far.

Problem seems to be with the ZTec variable exhaust cam. It'll start and run, but won't stay running under 1500 rpm and feathering the throttle. I've had this timing belt on/off at least 15 times now (I'm persistent) and tried every blessed combination physically possible.

I have moved the exhaust cam timing belt sprocket (keeping the cams themselves locked into position with the tool) from its full aft "resting" position against its spring pressure one tooth at a time until it has moved its full amount of possible travel. It runs worse as I advance each additional tooth until it won't start at all at its most forward possible position. So, the at rest position is best, but not good enough.

So, i went back to leaving at its "rest" position (spring in the sprocket assembly makes it return to this spot) and tried varying the crank one belt tooth in each direction. No joy.

Each time, I turn the crank 2 revolutions and VERIFY the timing stays aligned. It does. Then, when I reassemble and start it, it won't idle. Tear back into it and the exhaust cam IS NOT IN LINE, it's off by ~1/2 wrench flat on the cam, maybe 15 degrees. I just don't get it! So, I remove the belt again, line everything back up meticulously, reinstall the belt, set the tensioner, rotate crank 2x, checks good, lines right up until started.

I'm throwing in the towel at this point. If anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them.

Is it possible that the variable valve timing solenoid is stuck open? I would think its duty cycle is "closed until energized" but if it is "open until energized closed" I could see that being possible. It was running/idling great when he drove it in. Just needed the WP changed and the timing tensioner. The only thing I did was disconnect the electrical connector to that solenoid to get the valve cover off. Wires look good and the pins aren't corroded. Oil runs out of the exhaust sprocket oil cover, when removed, but it isn't "full". I haven't removed that sprocket because the spring tension returns it to "rest". http://teamzx2.com/showthread.php?t=117 leads me to believe I may have to remove the sprocket and re-lign it up. Could be why the exhaust cam is always out of alignment after I start it. Nothing else jumping out at me. Off to buy Torx sockets.


Anybody?? Bueller? lol

 

[kunar]

i think you are on the right track. i dont own a zetec (dont ask why im on a zx2 forum) but i remember reading about the VCT pulley having to be 'rewound' on certain occasions... mostly broken belts IIRC. keep searching teamzx2 and youre bound to find an answer. if not, just ask on there. make sure you search though cause if its been covered, noobs get flamed for asking it again.

 

[Earl43P]

Appreciate it.

Haven't touched it for a couple days, but I'm hitting it again bright and early tomorrow with high expectations for success.

 

[Explorin94]

both cams have a flat between one set of the lobes. Get them straight across and then take some wrenches and put them over the flats. Now tie the wrenches together and the cams will stay where you need them to put it in time with the crank. Also the crank should have a mark on the block where the crank needs to sit to line up the t-belt.