Help 88 b-II cranks won't start!!

[flipsidetom]

hello i'm tom! i been working on my buddies B-II... let me tell ya this lil truck has been a pain in my side... lol ok so he blew up the original engine... i found the same engine from a 87 ranger..installed it had it running he took it 3 days brings it back says it needs an oil pump... ok so i try to do it while its in the truck ( and p.s thats crap if they say they can do it while its in the truck!) so i pulled the engine did the oil pump and screen, new gasket. timed, it get it all installed in the truck and ready to go.. and it cranks but won't start... its got fuel i'm gonna check for spark tomorrow... but everything is good it was running like two days ago... please help! i'm stumped and he needs his truck back, and i need it out of my garage!! lol http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/images/smilies/headbang.gif

 

[adsm08]

You said you timed it. Are you sure you got it in the right spot?

Check spark, recheck timing.

If you are really careful you should be able to clear the engine bay and only have to take the tfi off.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[RonD]

Yes, 4 stroke engine means TDC on main pulley goes by twice for each one turn of the distributor, so easy to be 180deg out on distributor spark timing.

 

[flipsidetom]

bronco II 1988

ok so on the harmonic balancer there is the tc mark and all the numbers after it... the book says 10 degrees btdc but there isn't any numbers so i guesstimated it... is the book wrong on the timing???? and i was super careful and unplugged everything and when i did the removal and install... i don't i'm just stumped.... thanks for the info so far.. tom

 

[RonD]

That "TC mark" goes past the "numbers" 2 times for every 1 rotation of the distributor.

Firing order for 2.9l is 1-4-2-5-3-6

So "TC mark" is at the "numbers" when distributor rotor is pointed at #1 AND #5
So if the distributor was removed and reinstalled timing could be 180deg out.

Easiest way to tell is to pull the spark plug on #1 and turn the crank until you feel the compression stroke, air being forced out the spark plug hole, that will mean #1 is about to fire, so next time "TC mark" is at 10deg BTDC the distributor rotor should be lined up with #1 on cap.


You should still have spark either way.
And since the cap and distributor don't care, you can just change the spark plug wires around on the cap to match where the rotor is when #1 is at the top of it's compression stroke, TC mark at 10deg BTDC, instead of pulling the distributor.


And you did put the oil pump drive shaft back in right?
I forgot once, not a good result with a fresh rebuild...........

 

[flipsidetom]

ok thanks i'll let y'all know if i need some more info.. thanks tom!

 

[flipsidetom]

ok so i have power to everything.. timing is right.. seems theres no spark, so i did the old screw driver in the end of the wire test, and got nothing... so no spark... been told its the tfi module... could this be right???

 

[flipsidetom]

had the tfi checked and was good... have power to everything.. it just won't fire... so i'm thinking coil is bad i hope

 

[RonD]

Coil is pretty simple to test.

12v on one post and ground on the other, when ground is removed coil sparks.

Take a spark plug wire off the distributor and put it on the coil, or just use your screwdriver on the coil wire.
Turn key on, make sure you have 12v on one of the posts on the coil.
Use a ground wire and touch and remove it from the other post, you should get a good strong spark each time, don't leave the ground on to long, touch and remove.


Not sure the TFI used a resistor circuit to reduce coil heat, they did on most single coil setups.
A coil running on the full 12v all the time can overheat, so they ran a ballast resistor or resistor wire from the "run" position on the key, this lowers the voltage to about 8volts at the coil, which extends its life.
But they also found that using the lower voltage made starting a cold engine harder, lower voltage = lower spark, so they added a "start" wire from the stater solenoid to the coil, this gives the coil the full 12v when stater motor is turning, so easier start up.

This dual voltage system works well unless there is a problem.
When key is in the "start" position there is no voltage going to the coil from the key, it only comes from the starter solenoid, if this wire is not working then engine just cranks, no spark, after you stop cranking you might hear a pop, that's a spark plug firing when power is returned to the coil when key is back in the "run" position, the pop is the unburned fuel from cranking igniting in one cylinder.
Easy to test if this is the problem by hooking a test light to the 12v side of the coil, then crank engine, if light goes out then you would have no spark from coil when cranking.

The other side of that dual voltage system is if the resistor wire or ballast resistor from the "run" position was disconnected, this would cause a symptom of the engine starting when cranking but as soon as the key is in the "run" position it dies, so start...die, start....die.
This is easily tested with a test light as well, no power at the coil with key in "run" position.

 

[flipsidetom]

man this lil truck is kicking my butt.... i replaced the coil thinking that might of been it but nothing.. i have tried the timing a couple different times and still nothing.. everything seems to be getting power.. ok so if the battery cables get hot when cranking does that have anything to do with it?

 

[flipsidetom]

i figured out what the problem was... the loom of wires that goes over the top of the motor on the fire wall... i guess when i was trying to do the oil pump before i pulled the motor i had it jacked up to far and cut one of the them wires... spliced it back and its good to go.. just gotta get the timing right... thanks for all ur help tom

 

[flipsidetom]

got the b II running but it didn't seem like it wanted to move to well... but i told him to pick it up cause i would move...my part was done... i have no clue whats up now... any ways thanks for all the help.. tom

 

[RonD]

Good work sticking with it, I know it can be frustrating....