Help 2.3 missing

[1redcummins]

Hello everyone, Newbie here and I need some help. I have a 1986 Ford Ranger 5 speed 2.3 that I purchased for 250 dollars that had been sitting for 10yrs at least. The truck would start and go up the road but not real well....actually I don't know how it did at all. Anyways when I bought it I knew it needed a front caliper and a clutch right then. I'm am a diesel mechanic so I do all my work myself. I replaced clutch and caliper, aired up tires, changed diff fluid, trans fluid, oil etc. Fuel gauge showed empty so I went to fill her up....It was 3 gallon from being full! DANG I would have drained tank if I knew that. Anyways, I figured I would just run it and see how it does. It died after about 20 miles, started starving for fuel. Pulled it back to shop and removed tank, found sender and in tank pump rusted to the point of gone along with a rusted leaky tank. Replaced Tank and sender assembly along with the new in tank pump, changed fuel filter, replaced timing belt, plugs, wires, dizzy, button thermostat, valve cover gasket, etc. Fired up and has been running and driving like a champ for the last 1500 miles no problems at all. The only two parts that need replaced are the heater core and blower motor, other than that it 100% mechanical and has been great running truck averaging 25mpg. Two weeks ago it started missing going down the road, where I would notice it the most is in 4th gear while just barley on the gas. If i mash on it it goes and is fine. When its idling its smooth most all the time other than it will miss or hiccup sometimes but not enough to bother me. I can not figure out what is causing it, and I do not want to throw parts at it. Like I said, it only does it under very very light throttle, 1st gear through fifth it don't matter it will do it under light throttle. I don't feel like it does it in forth gear anymore than any other gear. I just think that is the gear I run down the road in and notice it. Its almost all the time now and getting worse. Any ideas where to start? I have cleaned T-body when I tuned it up and ran sea foam in a tank or two of gas.Any ideas of what is causing this would be great!! Thanks in advance.

 

[98singlecab]

1redcummins I feel your pain. I'm in the same spot. does your truck miss when it's hot or cold or does it even matter. I barely get into 4th since all my driving is in town. Mine is an 85. I've replaced plugs,cap,rotor, ignition control module. fuel pressure regulator, MAP sensor and air, filter fuel filter. The next thing I'm looking at is fuel pump and sending unit since I'm in there. after I check fuel pressure. If you get it figured out before me let me know, I'll do the same

 

[1redcummins]

well see when the truck was running "great" it would always run like crap if I just jumped in it and took off, but it would always run fine after it warmed up in about 2 or 3 mins. I would just start it and it would fire right up and high idle open loop and the idle down with in a few mins and would be good to go. I would let it warm up even at 80 degrees out lol. but she would run fine. But ya its just under really light throttle that is misses. I replaced the pusher pump in the tank but I would figure if the High pressure pump was going down it would be bad or worse at w.o.t but its not. sometime ill just step on it just to make it clear up! I ll keep everyone posted as I learn more. I don't have a lot of time to work on it right now but ill keep posting!!!

 

[98singlecab]

Hey Red. check to see if you have a filter housing attached to your frame rail in between the tank and secondary fuel pump. I'm trying to figure out what part number it is

 

[98singlecab]

I think it's motorcraft 33268 carttridge filter, fuel water seperator

 

[1redcummins]

Yep I have one. I changed that filter. It's a cartridge type. I can get you the part number off receipt tomorrow if ya need it. I got it at Orileys out on the shelf

 

[ricardo93]

Run a vacuum and compression test, misfires from a bad connection or dead wire tend to get worse the higher the rpms get

 

[Kenneth S]

It's that "up to 10% ethanol" that added to gas that made the rust. They claim the ethanol oxygenates the gas to reduce emissions, but because of the ethanol you loose gas mileage because you have to burn more fuel. If they eliminated the ethanol from gas you would be getting better gas mileage (also if they did this, just in the U.S. alone the reduced emissions from removing the ethanol would be equal to having almost 780,000 less cars per day running).

 

[NIPs]

Plugged up fuel line, it was probably partially plugged and once u put new gas in it , it probably broke a piece of rotting gas a away in one part of the fuel line and got pushed down the line to another partially blocked part of the line and the fuel line is barely open enough to get enough fuel thru at low idle but at higher idle with the higher need of fuel at higher rpm its not gona do it

 

[tomw]

Two things change when you goose it to get over the trailer hitching. Vacuum in the manifold drops... leading to increased fuel pressure via the regulator and additionally the MAP notes the vacuum decrease and notifies the computer, which in turn bumps fuel injection time.
Lean fuel surge would be the words I'd use to describe it. Check the fuel pressure regulator for function, increase pressure when you open the throttle from idle, and then fallback to normal. The MAP can be checked with a Hz reader. I don't know the 'table' values, but it will start with a number based in barometric pressure, and vary based on throttle position.
Spark plug wires that arc under load can also give a chunky drive as can an EGR that is not functioning correctly.
tom

 

[1redcummins]

Blocked off EGR! so far so good. I checked and cleaned it when I first got it. pulled vacuum and made sure it was free. I had a 454 do this in the shop once. Truck runs so so much better and even pulls out better. I guess it was hanging closed a little bit. Keep in mind guys it was only doing it under very very light throttle going up the road in any gear. no load well maybe 10 percent. It had good fuel pressure etc etc. Ill keep you all posted but so far im tickled!! Idles good and all!!

 

[tomw]

I will suggest one more time that you look for a 'light show' under the hood at idle after it sits out all night in the humid weather. I used a golf tee to plug my EGR, and if 'fixed it'. Not. Bought a new EGR valve, installed, and it was back to the chug-buck show. Luckily I was able to return the EGR.
New plug wires and all was well. EGR still connected.
The EGR is not supposed to be engaged at idle. No EGR flow when running slow. You can disconnect the vacuum line to the diaphragm and should make no difference. If the idle changes when you remove vacuum, something is wrong. Either with the solenoid valves sticking, or the computer, or the EGR has a weak spring?
tom

 

[1redcummins]

tom, I have replaced wires and plugs with it last 900 miles. Checked everything simple, no probs. I'm not sure on your situation how the wires had anything to do with the EGR. Why would changing the plug wires make the EGR work again??? Also like stated from first post it only misses and sputters at very low throttle. "like it is being smothered" Runs fine at WOT. If the solenoid was trying to shut down EGR at that low of a throttle it would buck and miss. Anyways Ill drive it and see if it continues to keep problem fixed or if it reverts back. Ill keep you all posted on what happens!! thanks again guys!! And I understand that some on here absolutely hate the talk of deleting anything emission wise but bottom line is the truck runs better. I come from the diesel world and forums and that's all we talk about! lol So forgive me if I step on some toes with that stuff

 

[98singlecab]

i looked the other night for a light show.... nothing. my truck studders (misses) only after start up. it goes into high idle, then kicks down stumbles kicks back up then it's fine no more issues till I shut it off. I would think if i had arcing in my plug wires it would miss all the time, just my way of thinking

 

[1redcummins]

ok, EGR delete did not fix it. Its getting worse everyday. Tom I came home tonight and sprayed her down with soapy water, in the pitch black dark! I seen a few places where it was a small ark but what caught my eye the most was that I could see not a ark but a "light show" coming from inside a couple of wires. It looked like the things you break and they light up that kids play with. I know the arcing is not normal but is what im seeing in the wire normal, or is it for some reason breaking down. 8mm carquest wires put on with in 900 miles??? Maybe this is my problem?? like I said it has started with a stumble and has got worse and worse. I just don't want to tell my parts store I need a set of wires under warranty and tell them what's going on and they say....well if you spray them in the pitch black that this is normal!?!?! Thanks guys, I did pull around on the wires pretty good last night when I removed EGR, maybe that's why I though It fixed it???