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Hello. I am trying to fix my 96 Ranger.


As for your comments about the PDC, I could see the connections underneath it causing the problem as you suggested as when I pull out these fuses, the under plate holding the fuses inside the PDC seems to lift up and out a little bit. I will check there too. Got to go back to work. Lunch hour finished. I will report back in a couple hours.

Thanks for help.

I feel the problem is close to being solved.
 
My check engine light does not come on; however, my check engine light has never come on during any of my recent problems these last few months, so it could be burnt out. I may need to replace the bulb. The battery light, Airbag, brake, ABS, and the seat belt use light comes on, but never the check engine light. This can be seen in my latest video posted on page 3 of this thread.
 
As for your comments about the PDC, I could see the connections underneath it causing the problem as you suggested as when I pull out these fuses, the under plate holding the fuses inside the PDC seems to lift up and out a little bit. I will check there too.

Yeah....see this video...will be insightful for you as well I think.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzSyxaZ3WAg



.
 
My check engine light does not come on; however, my check engine light has never come on during any of my recent problems these last few months, so it could be burnt out. I may need to replace the bulb.

Ok...yes changing the bulb probably in order then unless the computer is not powering up for some reason.
 
Is it possible that you could have messed up a wire or connection at the coil pack while you were undoing the heater hoses ?
 
Sorry, didn't read all the pages first - I see you have spark, etc. That relay box comes apart with clips so you can get at the actual wires underneath and check for power going through at that point. One of the circuits should come on for 2 seconds and go off then the other one comes on. believe the 2nd one comes on only if the engines turning, if I remember that one right. One of my kid's rangers had a bad connection under there so even though power got through the relay, it didn't go anywhere from there.
 
We diagnosed that by taking a long wire from the pos,. battery first to the pump, then the inertia plug, then the relay. Make sure you connect solidly to the pump first - THEN the battery _ you don't want any sparks back there !
 
I put my probe on the fitting that goes on the EEC (PCM) and got the light to go off so I pretty positive I have power from the relay in the PDC going to the ECC. It is from the EEC to inertia switch that I am unsure as to what is wrong, the EEC, ignition switch or wiring harness.
 
From the ECC to the Ignition Switch, could a solitary line be cut that I did not notice when taking down the dash and plenum for my heater core? I need to now take a lesson on ignition switches. I learned a lot about fuel pumps. Now to ignition switches. I am assuming the ignition switch is between the ECC and the inertia switch circuit.


In watching a video on ignition switches, I see about putting a new key in the steering column. I will do that soon, but wonder how can I get my door locks to match my new steering wheel key? I can wait till I get this car started to do that.
 
Do you have some decent wiring diagrams? You may want to obtain those if possible, someone on here probably can help with that.

I have the Haynes book. I think they show the wiring diagrams in there. Not that great at reading that kind of stuff, but I think I can manage.

I used my probe to test the lines going in to the PCM and see I am getting power, but as you claim, if the check engine light is not coming on (assuming the bulb is not burnt out), then that shows that the PCM is not powering up.

I tried to order a new PCM, but no parts store in New Orleans, junk yard or new, has my exact computer. Auto Zone said it will take 3-5 days to come in after being ordered and it will cost around $150 if I turn my old one in. My Auto Zone said they have no scanner to test the device to verify that it is bad, but my Auto zone seems to employ people with attitude issues as they never seem to want to help anyone.

I put my bed back together for I figure the problem is not at the fuel pump and that when it gets power, it will all work well. Now, I am gluing down my headliner which came undone so fixing those small issues while waiting to get a new computer. I am betting it is the computer as I do not think I was that rough with the dash that I cut a line. And if my memory was right, when I was taking down the dash, I think I heard a long sustained beep from the computer that seemed to tell me that the computer was crapping out. I am not sure enough of this memory. The computer is with me sitting here by my desk and I am waiting to place that order, but will take any suggestions as to how to verify it is bad with it taken out of the vehicle.
 
bad box?

The computer is with me sitting here by my desk and I am waiting to place that order, but will take any suggestions as to how to verify it is bad with it taken out of the vehicle.

You can crack it open and look for any obvious visual signs that there's an issue. Other than that IDK. Best way to troubleshoot it is with computer installed and hooked up.

You seem to be confident the computer will solve it...sure would be nice to have it fire right up after you're all done! You've done a lot of work to it and getting a good education for all the efforts.
 
:bawling:
You can crack it open and look for any obvious visual signs that there's an issue. Other than that IDK. Best way to troubleshoot it is with computer installed and hooked up.

You seem to be confident the computer will solve it...sure would be nice to have it fire right up after you're all done! You've done a lot of work to it and getting a good education for all the efforts.

Yes, I did do a lot and learned a lot about car circuits and fuel pumps, relays, and inertia switches. I wished I would have been able to trouble shoot a little bit better, but I didn't understand how the circuitry in vehicles can make what seems like an obvious solution to a problem the wrong approach to determining your issue.

I am going to sell this truck when I am done with it. So, not only will you get new parts on the majority of the truck, but you will have a spare fuel pump, coil, and other parts to spare. It is an old truck, but it has been good to me. The A/C still works (I better not jinx it). And the interior is in good shape. I go to junk yards to find missing and broken pieces and I have it looking original.

I am not sure it is the computer, but I know it is probably between the ECC/PCM and the inertia switch. I am worried that the computer switch out might not work. I cannot find a parts store that orders them. Auto Zone shows some stuff, but the kid behind the counter said I needed my VIN number and my odometer reading. Speaking of my odometer, it rarely works, but once in a while, it will work. I might look how to fix that next. My odometer says 131 k, but I got at least another 70 k more than that.

If I can find a reputable seller of the ECC, I will replace it. $150 more.
:bawling:
 

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