Hello and Can I pick Your Brains A Little?

[RangerusDangerus]

Hello all, found this site last night and have already begun to digest the dearth of info I have found.
My Ranger is an '84 with a 2.0. It can hardly get out of its own way, so I threw a newer tubular header on it for I think a 97 2.3. It fit, so I was thinking about going and putting this 350 CFM holley I have from another project (that I didn't use) and using this old '74 Pinto Intake to hook it all together. My question is:
1. Will the intake fit?
2. Will I have to find a Pinto throttle cable bracket to button it up?
3. Will the Ranger's stock throttle cable be long enough for the carb?
4. Is this even worth doing?

I had considered a 2.5 swap, or even ghetto-charging it (the holley would work with a number of already-available carb hats), but I wanted to focus on the basics first. I'm not going to be chasing down Warren Johnson or anything like that, but I do want to eat the lunch of the kids who think a civic is a hot car.

Cheers, and thanks in advance!

 

[--weezl--]

where to start...

first, rangers aren't fast, i wouldn't expect your ranger with a 2.3 to be able to keep up with civics... if you had a v6, maybe... i know when i was driving my buddy's 05 ranger with the 3L v6, i could keep up with him driving his mom's 2002 mini cooper s (super charged) no way in hell i was going to beat him, but i kept up to him!

second, that carb is WAY too big for you, with the size of that carb and the amount of air that your engine sucks in, you won't be pulling enough through the venturies to pull gas in. you need something closer to a 150... the 350 is a small carb for a 5L motor...

as for the pinto motor, i do not believe they are the same motor, wiki lists two different motors:

1974–1990s OHC—2.3 L (used in the Pinto, Mustang, the Merkur XR4Ti, and Thunderbird Turbo Coupe)
1983– OHC—2.0 L 2.3 L and the 2.5 L for the Ranger

though the difference may only be the intake on them... though to be honest, i doubt that... probably a different head cam, ect... i have heard of people using 2.3's out of escorts and Tauruses i believe, in their ranger...

 

[Sunk]

I wouldn't bother with a 2.5 swap. A little more bottom end, less on top. If you're gonna swap, grab a 2.3T.

 

[Captain Ledd]

For the setup you suggest, I'm not sure it's worth doing. Carbs are.. well.. carbs. After working with fuel injection, carbs are not all that great. And if you go too big of a carb you're only going to increase the very top end power and maybe/likely even have the lower end suffer. Are you planning on constantly driving the truck at high RPM's? (like 4k+) If not, then torque is what you need, upper low end (it will never have real low end) and mid range.


A basic fuel injected 2.3L is going to be better than a carbed 2.0. Since you'd be sourcing all new parts, I'd get an OBD1 setup off of a early 90's Ranger with a 2.3L (all wiring and electronics), this will get you a good fuel injection system and computer controlled ignition without the headaches of OBD2 (I'm STILL helping a friend convert his 79 J10 to a 2000 XJ harness, though he did make some "mistakes" like cutting the harness up before it ran and not labeling anything . Needless to say he bought another complete harness - yet to go in).

If you can, try to swing a 2.5L. They make more power all around than a 2.3L, not much,but still more, every little bit helps. These are in 1998-2000 trucks.

That 2.0l was rated at 80hp from the factory, NEW. A 2.3 or 2.5L will be good for around 110-120 or so. As for torque, again the 2.0L is looking at 100-110 fresh off the assembly line. a 2.3-2.5L is looking at 130-150 lbs ft of torque (~150 being the 2.5L). PLUS the added fuel efficiency and cold start-ability of fuel injection.

Then of course, there's the turbo option. But that covers more than I care to mention here.

Being a 2wd I'd also suggest gearing the snot out of the rear axle. I recently made the jump to 4.56 with a 29" tall tire (235/75R15) and it's brilliant. Still gutless and slow once you're moving because I didn't change the engine power output, but MUCH easier starts and it feels like it should be in the gear it's actually in. Substantially funner to drive. 4.10 units out of Rangers should be pretty available in junkyards and will bolt right in - any year (the newest of which had disk brakes, and may cause some issues, just a fyi).

Hope this helps you get started. Research, research, research.

 

[--weezl--]

^^ diffs out of ANY ranger will not work!

there are atleast 3 completely separate diffs put into the ranger, whos parts are NOT interchangeable! first would be the 7.5, which is not super common, this is what i suspect your truck has, the next is the 28 spline 8.8, which is by far the most common diff, and the last is the 31 spline 8.8, which is what my truck came with

if you want to get power out of it, for relatively cheap, and don't care a whole lot about the longevity of the motor, go hit the junk yards, look under hoods for anything turbo, you want a smaller turbo off of a 4 cylinder, don't bother getting a turbo off of a cummins, you'll never spool it up with your engine.

your next step is a motor swap, don't bother with another 4 banger, toss in something with atleast 6 cylinders... the 2.9 is a pretty peppy motor, and can probably be picked up for very little money

as far as stereotypical answers go, why not drop in a 5L?

 

[Captain Ledd]

^^ diffs out of ANY ranger will not work!

there are atleast 3 completely separate diffs put into the ranger, whos parts are NOT interchangeable! first would be the 7.5, which is not super common, this is what i suspect your truck has, the next is the 28 spline 8.8, which is by far the most common diff, and the last is the 31 spline 8.8, which is what my truck came with

STOP.

Any year Ranger axle will physically bolt up to the springs and shocks. With the exception of a u-joint flange pattern. Either a conversion u-joint will work, stealing the correct flange can work (if the u-joint is the same size), or drilling new holes in the flange will work. I mentioned the newest Ranger axle with disks because that may take a bit more head scratching to get the brakes to work.

Yes, the internal parts will not swap, but the unit itself will.

9" parking brake cables (at least the passenger side) will also work on the 10" drums, even Explorer drums. I know this because that is what I have done in my truck.

Oh, and 4 cylinders are fine. Mine has served me plenty well.

 

[--weezl--]

STOP.

Any year Ranger axle will physically bolt up to the springs and shocks. With the exception of a u-joint flange pattern. Either a conversion u-joint will work, stealing the correct flange can work (if the u-joint is the same size), or drilling new holes in the flange will work. I mentioned the newest Ranger axle with disks because that may take a bit more head scratching to get the brakes to work.

Yes, the internal parts will not swap, but the unit itself will.

9" parking brake cables (at least the passenger side) will also work on the 10" drums, even Explorer drums. I know this because that is what I have done in my truck.

Oh, and 4 cylinders are fine. Mine has served me plenty well.

STOP.

you SAID re-gear, so don't try to make me look like a dick because you said the wrong thing

yes the whole axle will bolt up, but you can't "gear the snot out of it" by just picking up "any year will bolt right in"

a regear refers to specifically changing the ring and pinion, and typically means you are using the stock carrier, axleshafts, diff housing, brakes, flanges ect

 

[Captain Ledd]

STOP.

you SAID re-gear, so don't try to make me look like a dick because you said the wrong thing

yes the whole axle will bolt up, but you can't "gear the snot out of it" by just picking up "any year will bolt right in"

a regear refers to specifically changing the ring and pinion, and typically means you are using the stock carrier, axleshafts, diff housing, brakes, flanges ect

I believe you mis-read. I never actually said "re-gear". Also I said, "A 4.10 unit" - a unit is a complete assembly. Pull the rear axle out of another Ranger and it will bolt up.

If you want to be technical about it, fine. However that leaves me confused as to why you would be so technical and detailed about a rear axle when you're advice is to grab a turbo off of "anything turbo" and expect this poor guy to bolt it up (I'm assuming bolt up) to his engine. And not even rebuild his current engine to handle the thing. Adding a turbo requires a substantial amount of thought and tuning and fabrication, even with a factory setup (though less on the tuning part, if it was a running engine before).

 

[Mark_88]

Stop Stop, stop...lol

Who cares...you're both right...the guy just wants to upgrade his intake and carb...the 350 has been used by a few people on here and works fine with a pressure regulator and low pressure fuel pump...I would suggest an electric pump if you can afford it but the stock pump works fine also...

The gears you can swap out if you have the parts/time/money and will give you more bang for your buck than anything short of a turbo swap...

The intake from a Pinto may or may not work...if it was a 2.3 it will work...if it was a 2.0 it will not...the Pinto 2.0 and the Ranger 2.0 are not the same engine...

There are a few threads on here that have recently been updated and are current builds...check out the threads and you will find plenty of information on what works well...

You will probably need an adapter to fit the 350 carb but you can try to mate them if you have both parts...if the intake is the stock intake it might take a 350 direct...but most people buy the adapter either on E-bay or through Esslinger (search and you will find)...

 

[chilsam]

What mark said

Stop Stop, stop...lol

Who cares...you're both right...the guy just wants to upgrade his intake and carb...the 350 has been used by a few people on here and works fine with a pressure regulator and low pressure fuel pump...I would suggest an electric pump if you can afford it but the stock pump works fine also...

The gears you can swap out if you have the parts/time/money and will give you more bang for your buck than anything short of a turbo swap...

The intake from a Pinto may or may not work...if it was a 2.3 it will work...if it was a 2.0 it will not...the Pinto 2.0 and the Ranger 2.0 are not the same engine...

There are a few threads on here that have recently been updated and are current builds...check out the threads and you will find plenty of information on what works well...

You will probably need an adapter to fit the 350 carb but you can try to mate them if you have both parts...if the intake is the stock intake it might take a 350 direct...but most people buy the adapter either on E-bay or through Esslinger (search and you will find)...

 

[RangerusDangerus]

Hmm, I guess I should have been more clear about the truck and its intended use.
It is going to be a street driven truck...it's 2WD and I mainly intend to use it for hauling light stuff and perhaps towing small trailers. So I can't smoke a civic- that's okay, It's not high up on the list of priorities.
The intake I have is P/N D4something something- From what I have gathered this is a stock pinto 2.3 intake. From what I can tell the holley will bolt right on. I have seen the Esslinger intake- the only problem I have with it is it mounts the carb sideways instead of facing the radiator, a logistic issue with my aforementioned hardware.
Another reason I chose the holley (aside from having to buy a new carb )is that if I did decide to turbo it I could simply add a boost-referencing power valve and carb hat and not have to convert to efi (the truck isn't driven every day, or even in cold weather).
So: will that 2.3 intake fit my 2.0? and if it does, can I use my existing throttle bracket (willing to fab one but if I can draw from the parts bin I'd rather do so)? Was planning a disc swap in the rear sometime anyway- it's a four-speed, though, so saturday night special gears are kinda out of the question at this point, although I plan to do a five speed swap.
Oh, and a little good-natured ribbing: Girls, girls, can't we all just get along? Have another pepsi, it makes you moonwalk.
I call myself the Gourmet Motorhead, and I only drive junk with rubber floors. what do I know anyway?
Thanks again guys!

 

[Mark_88]

If it's the D1ZE (or something like that) intake then it will work on the 2.0...only difference may be round port and D-port...but I drove mine for a year with the E1Z1 bolted to a 2.0...it had a bit more spunk and way less headaches...

I've been looking at the 350 carb off and on and noticed that it does look like it will bolt right onto mine too...they are essentially the same with minor differences...

I used a stock accelerator bracket on mine but the Motorcraft carb has the linkage facing the firewall (like the original carb) so it worked for me...if the 350 sits the same way then you won't need to mod it...and you can actually use a mustang cable too if you find one from a carb...the FI mustang cables will work but you need to modify the little ball socket a bit since it is farther down the shaft...I have one that I'm working on modifying...just need to find someone to weld the ball tab on a bit higher and success...

I'd upgrade to the M5OD too when you can...much better transmission...from what I've heard...mine has over 400,000 kms on it (only 250,000 miles) but still shifts as smooth as the day I got it...but that may also be due to the Trans Medic I dumped in it a few years ago...not sure...

 

[RangerusDangerus]

D42E9 are the first five of the casting number. It has two round ports and an oval shaped one. It looks like this one:
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=ford...sp=20&ved=1t:429,r:12,s:172,i:205&tx=33&ty=52

 

[RangerusDangerus]

Oh, and do I stand to gain anything by swapping a 2.3 turbo head onto it (without turboing it)? I found one and I know it will bolt up, just a question of if it's any better than the stock one.

 

[Mark_88]

It's probably better than the stock head (2.0) since the turbo head has D-ports and probably slightly bigger valves...but check the stickie on the 2.3 at the top of the forum...

These heads tend to crack so I'd have it tested before doing anything with it...and that intake looks like mine...but it does appear to have oval ports...can't remember what mine were come to think of it...been about three years since I put it together...

That link looks like it has many goodies in it...I had to close it before my mind started dreaming too much...lol