HEI on 1988 2.0 SPOUT question

[borlax]

If I convert my duraspark ignition to the 4-pin HEI module with the stock distributor will that eliminate the need for the SPOUT in the stock wiring harness? Does the HEI module have its own signals for the spark output so to speak? I assumed the SPOUT was connected to the duraspark module so changing modules would get rid of it. I ask because I think mine is unhooked and I can't find the other end. I think Its the round one with 2 yellow wires between the carb and valve cover. My timing on the crank and cam are set and it idles okay but lacks power and sucks gas. I think the distributor is set okay, it sounds okay. Thanks for any input

 

[martin]

Does your distributor have a vacuum advance on it?

 

[borlax]

yes it does

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Duraspark does not have a spout that is in the TFI ignition! Yes you can replace the duraspark module with the HEI 4 pin module. You need to mount it on a heat sync like for a computer processor and is real simple to wire I believe the diagram is in the tech library?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://search.aol.com/aol/imageDeta...gSize=26297&imgTitle=HEI+4+wire+module+wiring
Scrool down to the diagram you have three wires to the distributor two for the reluctor coil and a ground. Ground the module to the distributor and the other two connect to the module. Your duraspark module has a two pin connector the hei dont use the start wire (white) just hook hot up and the other to neg on the coil.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Scroll

 

[borlax]

removing duraspark module after hei installation

http://search.aol.com/aol/imageDeta...gSize=26297&imgTitle=HEI+4+wire+module+wiring
Scrool down to the diagram you have three wires to the distributor two for the reluctor coil and a ground. Ground the module to the distributor and the other two connect to the module. Your duraspark module has a two pin connector the hei dont use the start wire (white) just hook hot up and the other to neg on the coil.

Am I correct to say that If I install the HEI module, I can remove the Duraspark module and all of its wiring completely? I'll be running a Holley 5200. Also does the start wire (white) connect to the "S" on the starter solenoid? Thanks for the help I appreciate it.

 

[Mark_88]

Ah, the Holley 5200...like the one I have...not sure about there being a spout connector on the 2.0??? Mine had a vacuum advance on the distributor that plugged into the T in the manifold...and only had two wires to the distributor...

I guess I shouldn't speak in the past tense yet because I'm still driving it...

But to answer your second question, yes, the red wire with the boot on it (you might want to remove that boot since it corrodes and causes no start issues eventually) goes to the S terminal on the solenoid...

Pics of your wiring would be nice as it sounds exactly like my original 2.0...but there was no spout connector that I knew about...and I'd like to see the intake you will be using if possible. I picked up the Motorcraft 5200 plus the original 78 Mustang II intake...and it made a huge difference...

Only thing I can suggest is to make certain the fuel/air mixture is not turned out too much...this causes fuel to seep into your oil and will, eventually, cause engine damage...as I found out the hard way...

 

[borlax]

HEI resistor for coil/remove resistor in key wire for 12V to HEI module?

With an HEI, will I need a resistor to power a stock coil? I will upgrade to the TFI coil when I have more money. I read that the resistor in the key on wire should be removed so the module gets a full 12 Volts, is this true? Sorry for bumping my own thread, I plan to tear into this on Wednesday.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

You will not need to touch the stock coil wiring just use the red wire going to the duraspark module to power the HEI module and terminate the white start wire. It will be the key on hot battery voltage. The schematic I showed you is just the basic setup. Be sure and mount the module on a heat sync and use the high temp grease used for the TFI module.

 

[borlax]

I got some pics for you. I've had some starter solenoids stick on me and thought about the white wire, being that i bought a cheap enough aftermarket ignition lock cylinder. I went with a well reviewed one a few weeks ago. I think what may be wrong in my situation is that I'm running the feedback Carter 1-barrel on a stock 2.0 2-barrel intake with none of the solenoids or wires hooked to it, and that I haven't set the vacuum advance timing. I've just not been using it and plugging the carb. It doesn't have any real power, its hard to rev, it smells like gas, it barely pulls hills. So I plan on going with the HEI module, setting the vacuum advance and using a Holley 5200. When my grandpa and I used a timing light with the cam and crank set, it did best around 8-10 BTDC. Is that normal? I've seen that mentioned a lot for the 2.8/2.9 liters. If that's the case then I want somewhere around 10 degrees initial, 20 degrees vacuum, and 38 total. I'd like to use ported vacuum advance if that's possible. I've read the mechanical advance is around 18 degrees for the 2.8/2.9, I couldn't find much else. Thanks again

 

[Mark_88]

The solenoids can actually short out and cause a run-on starter. When they do that they are usually near the end of their use. Mine did that during a severe winter storm and I had to have it towed due to blinding snow...plus it was dang cold trying to work under the hood.

Anyway, nice nest of wires there, but they look very similar to my original setup. At least you don't have the stock Asian 2 bbl carb...that had another mess of vacuum lines for the emissions...and part of the reason I ditched the original carb. The 5200 had only two (needed) vacuum lines and it gave it much better response.

There was a flooding problem with it originally...and then I learned how to set the float...which is probably what is wrong with yours. When the float is set too high the gas can actually leak over the bowl and cause the engine to flood. Mine would drive fine for a while then suddenly just die on the road. I would coast off and take the breather off to find gas all over the place. Dropping the float cleared that up immediately.

You probably also have the other nest of wires going into the ICM (Idle Control Module) on the passenger side. That, apparently, can be removed completely but I've still got mine. There was only one control connection that hooked up to the idle kickdown at the back of the carb...it never worked properly so I just left it unhooked and set the idle around 800 rpms.

There was also one for the choke but it kept getting so hot that I was afraid it would start the flooding gas on fire...so I put in a manual choke and wrapped that connector up with electrical wire. It's still in there somewhere...lol