Heater hoses

[jcwilliams]

I have a 99 ranger 3.0 flex fuel motor. Would like for someone to post a picture of their heater hoses going from block to heater core. I think I have mine switched after pulling motor.
Thanks

 

[RonD]

The by-pass has 4 connections, straight thru and 2 90's

Lower block hose goes to straight thru
Upper block hose to 90

 

[jcwilliams]

Well.... Here's the thing. Mind don't have the heater control valve.

 

[RonD]

If the hoses just run from engine to heater core, no by-pass, then it doesn't matter which hose is connected to which heater core nipple.

My '94 is like that, heater core is the by-pass so coolant always flows thru the core, blend door inside controls heat in cab.
Heater core has no IN/OUT nipples, works exactly the same with flow traveling in either direction.
My grandfather taught me to swap hose connections on the heater core every two/three years, when you change the coolant.
This will hopefully push out any larger debris the way it came in and keep the core tubes open and working.
Same as back flushing the heater core.

 

[jcwilliams]

If the hoses just run from engine to heater core, no by-pass, then it doesn't matter which hose is connected to which heater core nipple.

My '94 is like that, heater core is the by-pass so coolant always flows thru the core, blend door inside controls heat in cab.
Heater core has no IN/OUT nipples, works exactly the same with flow traveling in either direction.
My grandfather taught me to swap hose connections on the heater core every two/three years, when you change the coolant.
This will hopefully push out any larger debris the way it came in and keep the core tubes open and working.
Same as back flushing the heater core.

OK. That's what I thought but was just making sure.

The reason I ask is because ever since engine rebuild and put back in the heat in the truck hasn't been the same. It use to get hot as hell but since I put engine back in its been "OK" heat....

 

[RonD]

Did you put back in the 192 or 195degF Thermostat?
Some use 180deg which lowers minimum heat level, also lowers MPG and engine oil quality, if so switch back to 192/195 t-stat

And depending on how much silicone you used on gaskets during reassembly you could have squeezed out bits being carried to the heater core and blocking tubes, back flush of core will remove those bits.
Feel heater hoses at the firewall/core, the warmer one is the IN hose, remove this hose at the engine end, point it down at the ground, or into a bucket if you want to see what comes out.
Remove the OUT hose from engine end and hold it together to a garden hose and turn on the water, lower pressure to start, then increase as you see fit.

 

[jcwilliams]

Yea both hoses are hot. I plan to flush heater core soon ( cold weather coming here in Ohio) but just 2 years ago I put new radiator in before the rebuild. So I'm hoping its just a air pocket or a open thermostat. Or it could just be in my head lol idk.
Thanks for your help

 

[Bronco638]

I was thinking it might be air in the heater core.

 

[bucko]

I was thinking it might be air in the heater core.

That would simply work it's way to the radiator, and "burp" its way to the overflow tank if the coolant system has no leaks.

 

[grantr91]

I was gonna start my own thread but this is already here. Not attempting to hijack just have a very similar question. I have a 3.0 not flex fuel one of the heater hoses has a valve. Does the one with the valve go to the thermostat or to the water pump?

 

[Bronco638]

That would simply work it's way to the radiator, and "burp" its way to the overflow tank if the coolant system has no leaks.

Are you sure about that? I've owned (old) Mustangs where the heater core is below the radiator but the air still got trapped. The way to cure it was to "burp" the heater core where the hoses connected (which was inside the passenger compartment). Based on what I've seen, the Ranger's heater core is pretty high, with respect to the rest of the cooling system. I could see how air could get trapped in the core.

 

[bucko]

If I "eye" it, I'd say the heater core is level with the radiator. Even so, with the valve open (for those year rangers with a flow valve), the water pump will push the coolant into the heator core, and with a "correctly working" cooling system, the air will burp itself into the overflow tank.

All bets are off though if there's any leak in the system, as air will be drawn into the coolant system by this leak while the water pump is spinning, and coolant will escape to this leak, rather than the overflow bottle. So air could always be present until the system is completely leak free.

 

[jpchrones6]

heater hose return line

Hey everyone . I am new here and have looked at a lot of threads and I have two questions there has been some on the subject but I didn't see any answers. Can someone point Me in the correct way. Thanks

1. Heater return line to manifold goes to a elbow ... where do you get the part all the Ford dealership has is part f77z-*18599-aa. Which has a hole for sensor but I don't need the sensor.

2 . I have read someone used brass fitting elbow .. how do you make or buy one.

I have a 1993 ford ranger 3.0 v6 . I will attempt to post a photo

 

[bucko]

I can answer #2....I went to a hardware store (enjoy going into an older ACE HW store...). Head over to the pluming section. Buy two threaded brass 'barbed' fittins, two 90 degree threaded fittings (that the barbed fittings will screw into at one end), and one 2 inch straight piece fitting to connect the two ebows with. The barbed ends connect to the heater hoses with clamps used.

Be sure to use pipe threading, either the white teflon tape, or pipe dope to seal the threads before you but these all together and tighten up, otherwise, the fittings WILL LEAK, no matter how tight you try and get them.