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Heater box and floor pan modification?


Kurt.king870s

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2017
Messages
75
City
NW Ohio
Vehicle Year
1992
Transmission
Manual
I got a 92 ranger ext. Cab with ac (the good stuff...R12), and i'd like to throw in a 5.0 with an M5-R2 explorer/mountaineer engine, trans from an f-150. And I really don't like body lifts.

So my question is, will it fit nicely without cutting up my floor pan? I don't mind folding the seam flat, or giving a bit of encouragement with a hammer, but I don't want to completely rebuild the whole trans tunnel.
And as for the heater box, will the heat gun/molding method be enough to clear the valve cover and some TM headers?
Do I need to use the Explorer ac compressor and R134-A?

I hate to ask the same old questions, about the same old stuff, but I haven't been able to find a clear answer for this older model. Some people say the heater box must go, some say that it can be molded.
Thanks for putting up withe me so far.......I feel like I ask alot of these questions.1

Edit: I posted this, and then realized it's in the alt. Fuel and energy.......can someone please move it to the V8 threads?
 
Last edited:
Might have to work the seam over but it should fit with no major hacking. Might have to do some surgery around the shifter hole but nothing too major.

AC box will greatly depend on valve cover choices. I had tall Edebrock valve covers on mine to start with and the box would not fit with a bodylift. I am pretty sure with the shorter Ford Racing ones it has now it would fit with a little remolding with heat. I haven't tried it yet to say if it would go without a bodylift, I know people have done it though.

My intent with mine is to use the Explorer compressor, it uses a manifold for the hoses and are a metric fitting so you will have to splice that into your existing system. I am also planning on using the second gen AC system (which you have) for the condenser since it has one outlet on each side of the truck and it is one less hose to run across the engine bay so you already have that working for you.

Watch front clearance because you will need to keep room in front of the radiator for the condenser, most swap radiators tuck into the radiator support for more engine room.
 
M5OD-R2 from a 1997 to 2004 F-150 with 4.2l V6 bolts to the 5.0l, same bolt pattern and shifter is in the same place as Ranger's R1
You do need to make the bell housing bolt holes slightly larger, 4.2l is Metric, 5.0l is standard SAE
 
Ok thanks for clearing that up for me!
With any luck i'll get an Explorer this fall and start rebuilding the engine. I was thinking i'd get the valves ground, torque monster headers, roller rockers, and a tune. I'm not trying to push tons of power, just make her nice and strong, and hopefully get 20+ highway. Anything I should do in addition or instead of that if I have it torn down?
 

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