Heads/Valves/Cam/Intake Options (I R noob)

[dasfinc]

Totally agree Mike, it's the Explorer computer that causes the problem. He should already have the 65mm TB and larger MAF from the Explorer. If he was to stay with the Ex set-up, I was going to reccomend the Comp Cam XE264HR-14. Long winded explaination about the LSA and duration at the bottom.
http://www.v8-ranger.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1981
Dave

I'm a bit confused now....

WHICH mustang ECU should I be using??? My truck is OBD2, I can't imagine that the 94-95 5.0 mustang ECU's will still plug right into my harness and work correctly? My truck is honestly 'grey area' exempt right now as it is still registered to a different county where it isn't eligible to be tested... I was 'trying' to stay with the explorer ECU because I can 'bluff it out' enough to pass if ABSOLUTE need be... but if a mustang ECU is the way to go, so be it, I'll just renew the tags for Ottawa.

If I DO use a 94-95 Mustang ECU, how in the world do I tune that!? What needs to be done to adjust the explorer MAF/intake/heads already on it in that case?

The Cam 'limiting' factor is the ECU and not the motor? If thats the case, couldn't I bring the truck to a place like Anderson motorsports and have them do a stand-alone? *I know it would be pricey, but wouldn't I get the best gains out of doing something like that instead? or is it easy/cheap to use a mustang ECU for the application in my 98 truck?

What exactly does my motor have already 'on' it (Its already a hydralic cam correct? And also... what EXACTLY does that mean, should I just Wiki it?)

 

[baddad457]

If you have the stock cam in it, then it's called the F4TE cam. It's a hydraulic roller with an advertised duration of 256/266 degrees (int/exh) Lift is .422/.445 (int/exh) LSA (lobe separation angle) is 116. This is just a very slightly smaller cam than the HO cam was.

 

[Teddyzee]

You are correct, dasfinc. It's the Exporer ECU that people claim has issues when the cam is changed. Not sure why a tuner (you) couldn't work work with one over the other, but that's what the internet tells me/us.
To swap to a Mustang ECU, we're talking 1989-1993 Mustang 5.0 ECU and harness. This is relatively easy to do, but it is not OBDII, so this may cause you inspection issues. This is how my 1997 Ranger is done.

The Mustang forums speak of having issues with tuning /94/95 Mustang ECU's... they are different program strategies, but still OBDI.

You hard parts could be used without issue with any Mustang ECU, if that's a concern.

I've just been considering swapping to an Ex harness/ecu, only because the harness itself in tiny. But brief searching says it wouldn't be what I'm looking for, performance wise. But I've only got references to "Johnny's thread on Explorer Forums" or whatever, I don't have any first hand info for you, or links to share.

 

[dasfinc]

You are correct, dasfinc. It's the Exporer ECU that people claim has issues when the cam is changed. Not sure why a tuner (you) couldn't work work with one over the other, but that's what the internet tells me/us.
To swap to a Mustang ECU, we're talking 1989-1993 Mustang 5.0 ECU and harness. This is relatively easy to do, but it is not OBDII, so this may cause you inspection issues. This is how my 1997 Ranger is done.

I'm not so worried about inspection issues, I'm more 'hell bent' on trying to get more power out of the engine after I drop the money to get it rebuilt.

I don't want to shell out $2000 for an engine rebuild and heads / headers / cam / lifters / rockers if I am going to have to spend another bazillion hours changing the wiring and ECU again to MAKE power. I'd like to 'slap' it all together with the factory tune, and bring it to a tuner and tell them to 'deal with it' and call it a day.

I am already 'experimenting' with my tuner, I am by no means going to leave the ECU alone, so if thats the only 'limiting factor', I'll stick with the EX Setup since I'm changing that anyways.

Is there a cam that will let me make power with the stock ECU up to 6K rpm? Will stock rods hold that, or is the valve train the bigger issue as a few other members have mentioned, or will I need a tune regardless since the stock ECU has no idea what to do over 5K RPM.

I think I'm getting more 'targeted' through what I'm picking up here already:

'mild' cam, Heads (Springs/valve already with the heads), roller rockers, and then Headers, and leave the block/rods/pistons stock if possible.

Just a cam/heads/and headers should really be enough to reach my goal already by the sounds of it without crazy money into tuning it assuming I pickup a cam with a 114* LSA (at the minimum), does this sound about right/fair?

 

[dasfinc]

On a side note, Here is the cam MAC recommended with a full 'kit'

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...r_id=149180383676&ua=?*S?&itemid=360254940004

For $650 or so, I can get cam and all my 'top end parts' aside from roller rockers to use with my stock heads. Would the setup in the link + Headers/roller rockers be a good 'budget' approach to my goal instead of dropping $1000+ On the heads alone?

This is actually EXTREMELY attractive honestly, Because I'd be looking at:

Rebuild labor (Local machine): $500
Camshaft Kit: $650
Headers: $700
Rockers: $150
Assorted: $150 (Hoses, fluids, etc)
Exhaust: $50 (Need to have a Y-pipe welded in, its more of a 'T' Right now )

I'd be looking at $2250 (give or take) and my time obviously to pull the motor in and out.

On these note, Is there a Recommendation on what kind of Converter I should pickup if I should get one at all? Pros/Cons, Etc? Link to exactly the one I 'should' want, or should my 4.10's really be 'enough' to get me out of the hole for now.

On a side-note

Currently the exhaust is 2.5 off the headers, merges into a 3 inch pipe infront of the mufler (Like I said, kinda ghetto right now) INTO a single flowmaster that has 3 inch in, dual 2.5 out, which turns to side-dump.

 

[Mac]

Just another reason to stay with the Explorer computer is not having to change the ignition system to a distributor. That 4R70 trans is also computer controlled. Do a Google on that cam number, seems like a lot of the Mustangers like it for a good street motor. Check on that Explorer forum you said you are a member at for suggestions. In that MM & FF dyno test on heads, they showed the power peaked out at 5800 with that cam. Same cam again with stock "P" heads on a carb's motor they got 336 hp at the crank. Lots of options and we all just love to spend others money!
Dave

 

[dasfinc]

Just another reason to stay with the Explorer computer is not having to change the ignition system to a distributor. That 4R70 trans is also computer controlled. Do a Google on that cam number, seems like a lot of the Mustangers like it for a good street motor. Check on that Explorer forum you said you are a member at for suggestions. In that MM & FF dyno test on heads, they showed the power peaked out at 5800 with that cam. Same cam again with stock "P" heads on a carb's motor they got 336 hp at the crank. Lots of options and we all just love to spend others money!
Dave

What other mods were done along with that cam? Linky to the article?

If that is just the cam and supporting modifications with a stock bottom end and its getting 336 peaking at 5800, i think I have just confirmed my setup! 300+hp, 6000K Redline, This really sounds 'ideal' honestly for a fun little street truck.

 

[Mac]

Dan,
Thought for sure I had E-mailed that and some other info last week. You speaking of 300 rwhp or crank? Did you see the Youtubes of the wheelstanding at Bryon yesterday, in the tailgate section.
http://airflowresearch.com/articles/...Part2/A-P1.htm
Dave

 

[dasfinc]

Dan,
Thought for sure I had E-mailed that and some other info last week. You speaking of 300 rwhp or crank? Did you see the Youtubes of the wheelstanding at Bryon yesterday, in the tailgate section.
http://airflowresearch.com/articles/...Part2/A-P1.htm
Dave

Never got the link *Just double checked my inbox* (And the one you posted is 'broken'!!!)

I know the 'difference' between crank and wheel hp, but I'd imagine with 325 crank, a healthy 13 second pass would still be achievable?

yesterday spent the day sorting out the tuneup on my 4X4, and playing with the tune on the orange one.

 

[Mac]

Try this then:

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/ultimate/Group1/Part2/A-P1.htm
I've just been busy sucking up leaves and cleaning up for Winter.
DAve

 

[dasfinc]

Try this then:

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/ultimate/Group1/Part2/A-P1.htm
I've just been busy sucking up leaves and cleaning up for Winter.
DAve

Looks like they were using a 306 *.30 over* Motor

If I need to punch mine out, Do you have any piston Suggestions to bump compression a spec?

 

[Mac]

You had been talking about changing pistons before, a 306 is a standard overbore. What's the stock compression ratio on an Explorer, 9.05:1? You could mill the heads but not much, valve to piston clearence becomes an issue unless you go with bigger valve reliefs in the pistons. Talk to your machinest.
Dave

 

[dasfinc]

You had been talking about changing pistons before, a 306 is a standard overbore. What's the stock compression ratio on an Explorer, 9.05:1? You could mill the heads but not much, valve to piston clearence becomes an issue unless you go with bigger valve reliefs in the pistons. Talk to your machinest.
Dave

On this note, Over-bore doesn't seem as though it would cost a tremendous amount MORE money since it will all be apart anyways... What pistons could I buy that would be a bit stronger and offer higher compression with my GT-40P Heads? Or is there no point in doing overbore aside from damaged sidewalls?

 

[The_Dealer]

how about the stage 2 top end kit by trick flow...360hp @the crank, mustang pcm, and a good tune

 

[Teddyzee]

Or is there no point in doing overbore aside from damaged sidewalls?

That's my opinion. But every little bit of bore increase will increase compression ratio, too. But cost/benefit, I don't know.