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Headers for a 2.9


Terry

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Messages
615
City
Gardnerville, Nevada
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
I had an idea this morning. Has anybody taken a set of V6 headers an modified them to fit another motor? I would think that if I can find a set that will fit in the area that the stock exhaust is in now all I would have to do is make a new flange to bolt it the the head.
 
I though 2.8's had siamesed exhaust at the back? Wouldn't that pretty much rule out normal headers of any kind? Just going by the year listed in your description on the left...
 
if you have a grinder, some metal and a welder, you can do whatever you want
 
if you have a grinder, some metal and a welder, you can do whatever you want

I have a complete machine shop will all the tools except for a bender. What I am looking for is can I take a for example a set of 3.0 headers and either cut off the flange or make an adaptor flange.
 
of course. you can use the old manifolds to layout a design for the new flange that will bolt to the heads. drill out the holes you need, then weld up the tubes. only thing is, it may require some cutting and rewelding to get the tubes to fit into the engine compartment since they're for a different engine.
 
of course. you can use the old manifolds to layout a design for the new flange that will bolt to the heads. drill out the holes you need, then weld up the tubes. only thing is, it may require some cutting and rewelding to get the tubes to fit into the engine compartment since they're for a different engine.

Are there any specs to be had as far as center distance between exhaust ports as well as overall dimensions of a 2.9 and a 3.0 motor?
 
Also If I need a different flange I will lay out some plate stock using a exhaust manifold gasket.
 
Are there any specs to be had as far as center distance between exhaust ports as well as overall dimensions of a 2.9 and a 3.0 motor?

that's why i was saying you should use the old exhaust manifolds to trace out a template. that way everything lines up. you could also get a set of gaskets for the exhaust manifold and trace that.

i have headers for my 2.9. the flange that bolts to the heads is just a flat piece of 1/4" metal, i guess steel. with a machine shop, that's a cheap/easy piece to make.

no idea about the dimensions between the motors. have you check the tech library for drawings?
 
Why not just pick up some headers?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSM-70-1117/

It would be cheaper and 10 times quicker. If you plan on making a custom set of tuned long-tube headers than you have a marginal power advantage but this isn't a high rpm tuned race motor.

The only reason I am thinking about making my headers was cost. I searched the web and all I found was very costly
 
i got mine for $190 shipped to my door. it was cheaper than replacing it with factory stuff
 
I've built headers before for my current honda VTR1000, old suzuki GSXR750, old 302 Ranger, and father-in-laws chevy roadster. I'll walk through the Ranger.

First, I needed an idea. I am an electrician by trade so any scrap 1/2" conduit I took home along with set-screw couplings. The conduit is easy to bend with a hand bender and easy to tweak with your hands. The set screw couplings allow quick connection, separation, and rotation of two pieces. This also works out because my 1/2 EMT bender has a centerline radius of 4 3/16" where as the mandrel bends I purchased were 1.75" OD and had a 4" centerline radius. took a scrap piece of flat stock and drilled out 2 bolt holes to hold it to the head. I drilled four 3/4" where each exhaust port is and installed a 1/2" emt connector (screw up) in each and tightened down the lock nut. I bolted this down to the head. My goal was to match all 4 primaries to 36" in length. So, I used the scrap conduit and started to piece together a mock-up header. I tried very hard to stick with 90, 45, and 22 degree bends as these are common bends you can purchase. I made sure to leave enough room for 1.75" OD pipe, meaning that my conduit (3/4" OD) needed a minimum of 1/2 clearance around it, but opted for 1.5" between two conduits and 1" between conduit and other obstacle. Once mocked up, I unbolted the entire assembly and began to recreate it on the welding bench with a tig welder and 409 stainless steel bends and pipe. After tack-welding the assembly I stood back and admired my work, then refitted it to make sure everthing worked out. I liked what I did so I back purged the pipe and tig welded all my joints. I also purchased 4-1 collectors at which point I welded this on. They come in two pieces. Weld the plate that covers the 4 pipes and then weld the formed cone onto this plate. Repeat for the drivers side.

I was proud, but I would not like to do it again.... which I will end up doing it again because I'd like to try a stroked 351 into a ranger. lol All in all it took 30-40 hours per side.

EDIT: I forgot to add that I brought exhaust gaskets to my buddy (Cates machine and welding) and had him CNC cut the gasket template out on 3/8" stainless flat stock. This would be my flange.
 
Last edited:
Why not just pick up some headers?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSM-70-1117/

It would be cheaper and 10 times quicker. If you plan on making a custom set of tuned long-tube headers than you have a marginal power advantage but this isn't a high rpm tuned race motor.

How did these headers fit? Where did you pur the 02 sensor? I would like to make them myself but for less the 200 dollars for headers made for my truck is a no brainer.
 

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