Header Install - Bolt Fix

[Blindmullet]

Hey All, I have been lurking for awhile. Helping my son with his Ranger and we ran into a snag. Replaced the manifold with some JBA headers and broke 3 bolts. I was able to get 2 out, but one broke below the surface of the head. I was going to use my reverse bits and a 90deg pneumatic drill and follow up with a high quality extractor. The bolt is the top/rear/drivers side. Remove the tire and fender well? I was thinking of taking the entire fender off so I don't have to remove the Edge wheel molding. Any thoughts? This site has been a great help!

 

[Curious Hound]

Oooooh. Nasty place to do an extraction. I don't know how rusty your stuff is. But reverse drill bit probably isn't going to get it. Soak it for a few days with real good penetrating oil before proceeding. You'll probably break an extractor. Might end up just drilling it out to 6.75mm and re-tap it to m8x1.25 threads. The nice thing is that it's a through hole on that tab. So you're not going to mess anything up by drilling too deep. The bottom holes are blind.

Good luck. Let us know what finally works for you.

 

[Blindmullet]

Oooooh. Nasty place to do an extraction. I don't know how rusty your stuff is. But reverse drill bit probably isn't going to get it. Soak it for a few days with real good penetrating oil before proceeding. You'll probably break an extractor. Might end up just drilling it out to 6.75mm and re-tap it to m8x1.25 threads. The nice thing is that it's a through hole on that tab. So you're not going to mess anything up by drilling too deep. The bottom holes are blind.

Good luck. Let us know what finally works for you.

Surprisingly, the other 2 came out pretty easy and the threads were clean. I noticed that I could blow right through the back and was pleased to see that. We are going to prep it tomorrow when he gets home and plan on a Sunday project.

 

[gaz]

Blind,

I feel for you, Eric is correct.

I have been in that spot, I removed everything and anything that might give me room to work and a strait shot at the area.

Another option...though I admit I dislike it to an end, is pulling the heads and either letting a machinist do it or yourself in a more controlled environment.

If it makes you feel any better, my first set of headers I snapped half the bolts and half of those were flush or worse.

 

[Blindmullet]

If I break something I'm going to put an insert in or retap. Any use in adding heat? Wouldn't it just boil the penetrating oil out or would it help?

 

[Curious Hound]

If I break something I'm going to put an insert in or retap. Any use in adding heat? Wouldn't it just boil the penetrating oil out or would it help?

Heat might help. Don't ignore any trucks.

 

[gaz]

Blind,

There is a problem breaking tools, extractors...are super hard and can present even more trouble removing.

For the flush snapped header bolts, I drilled, real slow and very careful. Start with the smallest practical bit and work up to the largest practical. Afterwards I needed to chase the threads with a tap. If I had messed up, I would have gone 1 size larger fastener and tapped accordingly.

 

[Dirtman]

Any use in adding heat? Wouldn't it just boil the penetrating oil out or would it help?

Yes and no. Good penetrating fluid doesn't just lubricate the threads, it actually dissolves some of the rust, so if it's had time to work it still would have done its job even if you burn whats left off with heat.

When I do stuff like that I give penetrating fluid at least an overnight soak to work, a couple days is even better if there is no rush. Then if it's still stuck I use the blue wrench. I hate torches though so I usually do my best to get them out without heat...

 

[Blindmullet]

Here we go...My son tried running it with the broken bolt and burned up the garbage JBA header gasket. Now he is paying about $60 with shipping for replacements. Took the fender and liner off. PB Blasting for a day or two. Might drill through this weekend and attempt extraction next week. Plenty of room and the steering actually helps hold the angle. Should I start with my smallest reverse bit I have and just work my way up? What size extractor should I go with? I was thinking of a #3. Thoughts? Thanks all!

 

[19Walt93]

I'd recommend NOT using an extractor or easy out. If you break one off in there it'll be a bad day. I'd start with about 1/8" drill and move up slowly, then chase or retap the threads. Drill at a low speed and use cutting oil- your PB would work if you want. At worst you'll end up with one bigger bolt or a bolt and nut.

 

[Curious Hound]

That ^^^ is good advice. The key is to take your time. Get your setup as good as you possibly can and make sure you drill centered and straight. You really don't need to worry about reverse drills for this one since it's a through hole. I would start with about a 1/8" bit. Use a center punch and get a good dimple in the center of the hole before drilling.

 

[pjtoledo]

check out this video for how it "supposed to be done"
some good tips in it.
put the manifold back on to guide the drill, find or make a small collar to put on the drill to keep it centered.

Removing Sub Surface, Snapped off Bolts -- Take a Look !! - YouTube

 

[Blindmullet]

check out this video for how it "supposed to be done"
some good tips in it.
put the manifold back on to guide the drill, find or make a small collar to put on the drill to keep it centered.

Removing Sub Surface, Snapped off Bolts -- Take a Look !! - YouTube

That's a good vid. He is on a press but I get the idea. Thats basically if I can't walk it out with a extractor or drill it out completely. A good happy medium. Will definitely work my way up. I'm not going to horse the extractor. If it doesn't work I'm back on the drill.

 

[Dirtman]

In my experience, extractors work better the more the bolt is drilled. For example don't drill a 1/2" bolt 1/8" and expect an extractor to work. Drill the damn thing till it's tissue paper before sticking an extractor in. An extractor is not necessarily stronger than the bolt was. If the bolt snapped before letting go you obviously need to do something else to weaken the grip of the threads first before an extractor will do the trick. Generally once the bolt is drilled thin enough the threads just kinda collapse once you start turning the extractor.

 

[Blindmullet]

In my experience, extractors work better the more the bolt is drilled. For example don't drill a 1/2" bolt 1/8" and expect an extractor to work... Drill the damn thing till it's tissue paper before sticking an extractor in.

I'm shooting through and would like 50% of the material gone before trying.

When I was my son's age I was building a 5.0 mustang.....that turned into a stroked 351 out of a boat. Lol My father didn't teach me but this is a good time for my son and I. We are also building a boat.