Header Coating?

[adsm08]

Ok, so I have some new Headmans that I am going to coat with actual exhaust coating. Problem is I have to get the black shipping coat off. I was originally told to just use brake cleaner to get it off. That didn't strip it off so much as make it gooey, so now I am looking for the quickest, most efficient method available.

Things I have:

Scotch-brite
Sandpaper
half a can of crappy brake cleaner
wood stripper
brake fluid
a wading pool
razor blades


Things I do not have:

bead/sand blaster
good brake clean
paint thinner
a battery charger
patience
wire brush


Alright guys, lets hear your Apollo 13 ideas.

 

[88_Eddie]

get me a green pepper, some scotch tape, two straws, a knife and a piece of aluminum foil........wait, that's something else.

if it were me, i'd find someone to sand blast them for me.

if it were me and i didnt want to spend the money for someone to do it for me, i'd get a wire wheel for a drill and go to town.

another option is that you could install them and cook off the paint. i used the "high temp" paint from the parts stores and it baked right off the very first time i drove it. so make sure you use something that can take the heat.

 

[adsm08]

I got some stuff from Eastwood that I have been told holds up quite well. At $17 for an 11 oz can it better be good stuff.

 

[CCPcoatings]

Ok, so I have some new Headmans that I am going to coat with actual exhaust coating. Problem is I have to get the black shipping coat off. I was originally told to just use brake cleaner to get it off. That didn't strip it off so much as make it gooey, so now I am looking for the quickest, most efficient method available.

Things I have:

Scotch-brite
Sandpaper
half a can of crappy brake cleaner
wood stripper
brake fluid
a wading pool
razor blades


Things I do not have:

bead/sand blaster
good brake clean
paint thinner
a battery charger
patience
wire brush


Alright guys, lets hear your Apollo 13 ideas.

The only way to prep parts like this for coating is to degrease them and then profile it with a blast process. Ideal degrease prep is thermal degreasing at about 800F+, but I suspect you don't have that capability. In lieu of that use some lacquer thinner.

Scotch bright, wire brushing, sand paper etc are a COMPLETE waste of time. You want to create a surface for the coating to STICK, not POLISH it.......

 

[adsm08]

Ideal degrease prep is thermal degreasing at about 800F+, but I suspect you don't have that capability.

I have access to an acetylene torch. Somehow I get the impression that may be a less than ideal way to achieve said 800*.


[/QUOTE]

In lieu of that use some lacquer thinner.

[/QUOTE]

That I can get. Thanks for the input.

 

[CCPcoatings]

I have access to an acetylene torch. Somehow I get the impression that may be a less than ideal way to achieve said 800*.

In lieu of that use some lacquer thinner.

[/QUOTE]

That I can get. Thanks for the input.[/QUOTE]

That'll work. If you get it close to red hot for a bit you should break down all the organics on it.

 

[Mac]

I've used a wire wheel on a drill but make sure if it's a fine or course wheel. Then go to the thinners and such. Most of them spray on types are not worth the money. That Eastwood stuff is the type you have to brush on and then bake? Clean as you can et it is the key. Heard that works good. 350 degs in the oven for four hours should work,
Dave

 

[Frank The Tank]

If you aren't doing an engine break in I'd just scuff it good and apply. I broke my 445 in with flowtechs and it burned the enamel off. I was checking warranty information and in big red letters it said to never ever break one in exactly like I did. Haha

 

[ZMan]

soak your red scotchbrite with brake cleaner and scrub it off..wear gloves.

 

[70roadrunner]

the wood stripper should take it right off

 

[killj0y]

Soak in brake cleaner, or maybe a 5 dollar can of aircraft paint stripper from Wal-Mart that works pretty well. Just curious why can't you coat over the existing coat?

 

[adsm08]

If I coat to the existing coat amd my top coat sticks to it but it doesnt stick to the metal the top coat will still come off.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[straycat]

I took two steel wheels and a bare aluminum mountbike frame to a fab shop last month. I had them all media blasted. All for $30.00. So $10 bucks for each item was a good deal I thought. I just call around before I do something first. aves me time and money. I have a friend who lives anhour away from me who lets me se his shop when he is home. But...to drive round trip of a bit over two hours is a bit of a pain sometimes. Whenever we go up to visit I have brought stuff to do. That's the best time to do that...lol, but when you need it done that morning so I can paint things well....got to spend a few bucks.

 

[colby450xc]

I would just go by an aerosol can of AirCraft stripper from walmart or the parts store. Its what I use to strip car hoods and other parts down to bare metal at work. Its some mean stuff. Coat the headers then cover them in painters plastic for half an hour to lock in the gas. Coating should come right off with a pressure washer or even just a towel.

Dont get it on your hands, it burns a bit..

The stuff is strong enough to strip powder coat so I would bet it would strip those headers.

On the other hand getting them sand or bead blasted will prep the metal pretty well for any coating you want to put on them. Sand blasting leaves metal pretty rough and ready for paint or powder coat once any oils or contaminants are cleaned off.

 

[veefer800canuck]

send them off to be jet-hot coated, and they will do the surface prep for you.

here are my headers from my motorcycle that I had done: