2.3L ('83-'97) Head Bolts - '94 2.3L

[ForgedCrank]

Hi guys, for my latest stupid question, I'm hoping to get some reassurances regarding head bolts.
Due to an overheat, I am swapping the head. I got paranoid (its a thing I do) and measured the original head bolts and there was some variation in 3 of them that I didn't like, so I decided to just get new ones. What the heck, 25 bucks is cheap enough insurance. I got a new set, Fel-Pro (ES 72137).
So my latest questions are....

The Fel-Pro instruction sheet calls for 2 stage torque, with lubricant applied to bolts and flange faces. 1) to 51ft lb then 2) add 90-100 degrees.
The Ford shop manual calls for basically the same (51 + 80-100 degrees), but does not call for lubricant anywhere that I can find.
Various online searches are conflicting, so I'm going to the trusted source of experience here. Should I use lubricant on the bolts or no?

Next question is, I was under the impression that some of the head bolts breach the coolant passages and require sealer. I don't remember where I heard that, it was just stuck in my memory. However, the Ford shop manual has no mention of sealant for installing the head bolts. I see some forum posts saying it is not needed, and other online stuff saying SOME bolts need it, but nothing that specifies which bolts they are, so I'm skeptical. I don't see any sealant on the originals either, but I can't be sure it's not down in the thread bore (I've yet to chase them out).
Am I correct in assuming none of the head bolts require sealant?

I'm still waiting for the head so I'm just trying to get everything together ahead of time.
And as always, you guys are great, I appreciate any input you are willing to share.

 

[franklin2]

I looked it up, Chiltons doesn't say anything about sealer on the bolts. I suppose you could also get a thin wire or rod, and poke down in the holes to see if they all bottom out and are blind.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Some oil on the threads makes for a more consistent torque value, ARP bolts come with a packet of lubricant...

For Lima head bolts, if the stock bolts had a hex they aren't torque to yield, if they're Torx they're torque to yield, but yeah, I'd make the call you did...

 

[ForgedCrank]

Some oil on the threads makes for a more consistent torque value, ARP bolts come with a packet of lubricant...

For Lima head bolts, if the stock bolts had a hex they aren't torque to yield, if they're Torx they're torque to yield, but yeah, I'd make the call you did...

The part that raised my suspicion is that the bolt shank is smaller and the OAL is longer on the 3 bolts in question, indicating they may be stretched.I'm not talking about very much (like > .006 was the smallest one and it was .010 longer). Probably Ok, but I just didn't like how it smelled. The other 7 were all very close in measurements. It might just be the manufacturing tolerance for all I know. And yea, mine are hex head bolts, so they aren't supposed to stretch.
What's your opinion on the sealer? I'm leaning towards just going with the manual since it is not mentioned in the head installation section. I'm just hesitant thinking it may be in some footnotes somewhere that I'm missing. The common sense side of me says Ford wouldn't leave that out of the step-by-step section for cylinder head installation.

 

[scotts90ranger]

It's been too long since I've put together a 2.3L, I don't remember and don't have a block apart to look at at the moment (it would take me over an hour to be able to look at one... there's one in the crate in the garage but it's buried...)

I'd probably do as above and when the head is off take a flashlight or wire and if the holes are blind and don't intersect a coolant passage just oil, if there's a coolant passage add some thread sealant

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Couldn't you use a turkey baster and add water to the holes? If it disappears then there's a hole. Use paper towel to wick out the water after.