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Hard to Reach Spark Plugs


campermama

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2008
Messages
48
Vehicle Year
2001
Transmission
Automatic
any advice on how to get to the 2 plugs that are difficult to get to on the passenger side??

01 ranger 4x4
 
Some folks recommend removing the front tire and going in through the wheel well.
 
yeh I have never done that put looking at it makes it seem like it would be much easier to get to. I usually just use a piece of vaccume tubing or a spark plug socket with a wobble extension. seems I can get it on pretty good from there.
 
Yup, go up through the fender well. Much easier than working around the A/C housing.
 
How hard is it to replace the wires, they look like they are wove in and out of a lot of stuff.
 
They are not bad, just take your time feeding each one, one by one. I know they seem like they run through some random spots, but if you do them one at a time they are super easy. its when you take them all off at once and go to replace them that your like "hmm, how did these go again..."

good luck and let us know how it goes!
 
i thought i had found a pretty slick way to get to those plugs on the pass. side by reaching in parallel to the block almost, following the frame rail, from the front of the truck. if memory serves, you can slide your arm straight back by going past the altenator and follow right along the exhaust manifold, but this was my 93. things could be different on later model years.
 
any advice on how to get to the 2 plugs that are difficult to get to on the passenger side??

01 ranger 4x4

I recommend not changing them. The risks are getting crap into the cylinder, crossthreading the aluminum head, breaking the plug and not being able to get it out, screwing up the wires. The rewards are...

Well...

None. You won't notice anything. No increase in mileage, no easier starting. No nothing. These ignition systems put out a seering blast of a spark. I'd go 10 years before taking the risk, however minor, of fooling with the plugs or wires. I've had my plugs in since I bought the engine in 2001. I even left them in when I took the heads of to overhaul the lifters. Runs like a top and with 100,000 long duration volts blasting them, they will continue to do so until death do us part. On the other hand, the wiffle ignition systems in some of my other junk I have to clean, file and gap the plugs every couple of years.
 
I would definitely not recommend leaving them in until they "need" to be changed. Then really would run the risk of permanent damage to the head. I've changed the plugs in my 03 4.0L at 35k and 72k with no issues whatsoever. I have seen aluminum heads strip out twice now on trucks with around 100k miles and the original plugs (Both were F-150s, one 4.6L and one 5.4L)

My blow gun allows me to attach a standard brake line to it bent in whatever configuration I please to blow the crap from around the plug. Even if it wasn't, there no reason you can rig something up similiar to keep crap out of the cylinder. With the right combination of extensions, flex ratchets, and u-joints, you can change all 6 plugs while laying on top of the engine. It's not fun, but it's not impossible.
 
Will fell down and bumped his head again, She has a 4.0 ohv engine. Cast iron heads.
I gave my answer in her other post.
She has a random misfire that we have been trying to help her track down. We never seam to be on the computer at the same time.
 
I would definitely not recommend leaving them in until they "need" to be changed. Then really would run the risk of permanent damage to the head. I've changed the plugs in my 03 4.0L at 35k and 72k with no issues whatsoever. I have seen aluminum heads strip out twice now on trucks with around 100k miles and the original plugs (Both were F-150s, one 4.6L and one 5.4L)

:icon_surprised: a 4.6/5.4 that blew out spark plugs ?? No Way!! NEVER happens !!

LOL !!

Sorry 'bout that. I agree %100.
 
One of the arguments for changing plugs frequently in an aluminum head engine relates to carbon buildup. A Champion guy I talked to at some racetrack told me that if small carbon deposits - that cover the area between the plug and head - crack leaving sharp edges and stick tightly to the plug, it will act like a dull cutting tool and take the thread out of the head as it comes.

Personally, I've never had that experience, but I've always changed the plugs regularly on any alum head engines I've owned. . . just to be safe.
 
I would definitely not recommend leaving them in until they "need" to be changed. Then really would run the risk of permanent damage to the head. I've changed the plugs in my 03 4.0L at 35k and 72k with no issues whatsoever. I have seen aluminum heads strip out twice now on trucks with around 100k miles and the original plugs (Both were F-150s, one 4.6L and one 5.4L)

Changing plugs 3x as often as you need to will give you that many more chances to cross thread one.

Normal OEM plugs are supposed to be good for 100k, I would go 70-80k to be safe. I wouldn't wait for them to go bad though, if you have already replaced the other 4 go ahead and to the last 2 while you are there so you don't have to worry about it for a long time.

The 2v Windsor build mod motors (a few 4.6's, all 5.4's and 6.8's) have 3 threads that hold the plug in and are very prone to spark plug threading issues, the 4.0 doesn't share this glitch. I have never heard of deposits cutting the threads out of a cylinder head, it sounds like a Champion salesman trying to sell some plugs.
 
Ok so the verdict is......bad news!

The 2 plugs were cross threaded, we verified last night with a light and magnify glass. So had it towed to my ex's house and we are going to take it apart and fix it the right way. He is good with this stuff and probably the only one I trust to do it right.
I want to thank all of you for all the help! I hope I can return the favor somehow some day.

By the way, we also found a cracked vacuum hose! Go figure!
 

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