Hand tight locknuts D 35

[Andy D]

I put 3 new studs in the LF hub last night. What I need to know is how tight to get the round nuts. It was deja vu taking it apart. Just like the D 44 hubs. They were torqued ~50 pounds. Both lock nuts were backed off and loose. I dont have the 4 prong socket, so I just drifted the nut off. One whack with a 1 pounder and a punch and it was loose . Anybody know the torque spec for the round nuts.?
The bearings are in good shape and well greased.I bought a tub of Ford grease. The hub is loaded with good looking black grease. I'm going to repack the tapered bearing and reassemble. TIA

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I think you're talking about the bearing nuts. The inner one is 35 - 45 lbs/ft.edit - please read the posts down farther... The outer is 150 by the book but some more knowledgeable members recommend 225 lbs/ft.

From this page;
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/dana_28_35.shtml

Loosening of the bearings can be minimized by torquing the outer bearing locknut to 225 ft-lbs instead of the book spec of 150.

Richard

 

[adsm08]

I usually only take the inner nuts hand tight, and I spin the wheel while doing my final torque to keep the rollers free.

It can also help if you set the wheel on with to lugs and torque the bearing nut, that way you can make sure you get it at the loosest point where it is tight. Loose bearings don't wear out or make noise.

 

[4x4junkie]

Tighten the inner bearing nut to 35 ft-lbs while spinning the rotor back & forth a few turns,
Loosen and retighten it to 15 INCH-lbs (or put it fairly tight using just your fingers),
Install lock ring (if the pin doesn't line up, flip the ring over, don't tighten the nut further),
Install & tighten the outer nut to 225ft-lbs (making sure the lock ring tab doesn't ride up out of the groove and allow the inner nut to turn with it).

You WILL need the correct socket to do this, so may as well git yourself on down to the store now and buy one (or order one).

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w1269

 

[Andy D]

Thanks, I got the hub on. Put the wheel on and there is tiny bit of play. I have to remove the snap ring, spacers, lock nut and thrust washer before I can further adjust. I was satisfied with just no rotor wiggle, so I went ahead. Rain and darkness closed in. I'm going to take the wiggle out with the wheel on. I am comfortable setting the bearing with a drift. Done it a few times with a D 44.

 

[Will]

I think you're talking about the bearing nuts. The inner one is 35 - 45 lbs/ft. The outer is 150 by the book but some more knowledgeable members recommend 225 lbs/ft.

From this page;
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/dana_28_35.shtml


Richard

The inner nut has no torque on it at all! The torque spec for it is just for seating the bearings. You have to squish the grease out by tightening the bearing and spinning the hub. Then you back off to release ALL tension and then just barely close the nut back up to the bearing to remove the play. It's the same deal whether the bearing is large enough to stick your leg through or small enough to put on a girl's finger and marry her. I've worked on it all. Erring on the side of slightly loose is better than cranking on it. I've seen them fail from heat, but not from a tiny bit of play. Perfection is zero play and zero torque, but that's not achievable.

Take care of these parts because they don't make them anymore. These old TTB Rangers are the last good compact trucks left in the world and busting a part is like strangling a Brontosaurus.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Thanks for pointing that out.

Richard