Ground Cable @ Fuse Box

[Mhfco6]

I had to replace my starter solenoid and every since I moved the ground it must have broken all the corrosion up inside the sheathing. It will only start if I wiggle to wire. I can’t seem to find a way to disconnect the section at the fuse box. Anyone know if it’s made into the fuse box or can’t it be removed? Thanks.

 

[Curious Hound]

First of all, I’m pretty sure that is not a ground wire. It looks like the 12v supply wire to that fuse box.

I would think there should be a way to replace that. But I haven’t messed with that exact fuse box. I would recommend disconnecting the battery before you mess with it too much.

 

[RonD]

Yes, that is the 12volt power cable for fuse box

No, I haven't seen that connection before

Yes, unhook battery cable FIRST
Then unbolt fuse box and see if there are any nuts on the under side holding that connection, looks like carriage bolts on the top side

You may find similar at wrecking yard, doesn't have to be Ranger, Ford used engine fuse boxes in all years and all models

And this is a 1991 Ranger 2.3L?

 

[Mhfco6]

Yea usually I see 2 bolts/nuts to easily remove. Thanks for the replies. Yup 91 2.3L. Wow what a pain to get to, thanks again guys.

 

[Curious Hound]

Congratulations. You got it.

 

[Mhfco6]

Dealer was no help. They gave me the following part#s and said their discontinued. All these are fusible link wires.
E9AZ-14526-A
D3AZ-14526-H
D3AZ-14526-T
D3AZ-14526-L
D3AZ-14526-S
D3AZ-14526-M

I just cut the rubber to see what’s inside, this will be easy to fix.

 

[franklin2]

A fusible link is nothing more than a piece of undersized wire with special insulation around it that is resistant to catching fire. Keep that in mind when repairing this.

 

[bobbywalter]

Never had a problem with those...the box unclips...roll it over and put a new custom built cable with a circuit breaker on.

 

[Mhfco6]

Well that didn’t fix it. It fired right up after install but when I shut down and tried again all I heard was click.. click click click. Any ideas?

 

[RonD]

Yes, battery cables or battery

"click, click, click" means the Starter relay and solenoid(on starter) are working, but when Starter Motor tries to draw 60-75amps the battery can not provide it, so voltage drops and starter rely and solenoid "click" open, and then "click" closed if you are still holding the key in START, repeat........."click, click, click, ect...."

Test battery voltage
12.8volts is a new battery
12.5volts is a 3 year old battery
12.3volts is a 5/6 year old battery, and time to shop for battery sales

12.2volts or lower is a dead or dying battery

If battery tests OK
Then clean battery terminals AND battery's negative cable to the engine, and Positive cable to Starter motor

And a battery cable can fail, it gets corroded on the inside, use a razor knife and cut cable insulation back about 4", peel it back, if you see whitish powered, replace cable, if it looks OK wrap if back up with tape

It is possible for starter motor to fail and draw too many amps, same symptom, "click, click, click"

 

[Mhfco6]

Good info here thanks a lot. Didn’t experience this issue till after solenoid replacement. I also swapped a practically dead battery with my F150, but charged it and was working fine. Stopped at a gas station and click click click. Wiggled the wire originally posted about and it started. When replacing solenoid that wire made me nervous anyway, a lot of crunching when moving it around. I’ll check those things and get back to you. In the mean time I’ll send a pic of my solenoid to make sure it’s hooked up properly.

I just replaced terminal ends not long ago and wires were alittle dark greenish but not white. Battery reads at 12.26.
Will not start when hooked to jump box.

 

[RonD]

In your picture above of the starter RELAY, the larger terminal on the right has the smaller red wire that runs down to starter solenoid, on the starter motor

The small terminal at the top, has the wire that comes from ignition switch, it has 12volts when key is turned to START

When the smaller terminal wire has 12v this RELAY Closes, and sends 12v from larger left terminal to larger right terminal and that activates the starter solenoid on the starter motor

The starter RELAY needs a GOOD ground, the screws that are holding it to inner fender are the grounds, and they look pretty rusty, pull one screw out and clean it, so its bare metal where it holds down/touches the Relay base

Then MAKE SURE trans is in Neutral or PARK

Turn key off

Use a short jumper wire and touch it between the 2 larger terminals on the starter relay, starter should activate IF......battery cables are OK, can handle the AMPS
Try it a few times
If no 'click, click, click' then battery cables are OK(and so is starter motor)
If it does 'click, click, click' then battery cables ARE the problem(or starter motor is)

If it doesn't 'click, click, click', then turn on key, and try starting with key(with NEW ground for Relay)
If it does the 'click, click, click' then New Relay is either not grounded or its bad

You can test the small terminal wire with volt meter, unplug it, hook up volt meter and turn key to START(clutch pedal DOWN if manual trans), should see steady 12.3volts or what ever battery reads now, if its under 9volts then this wire is corroded somewhare

 

[Mhfco6]

In your picture above of the starter RELAY, the larger terminal on the right has the smaller red wire that runs down to starter solenoid, on the starter motor

The small terminal at the top, has the wire that comes from ignition switch, it has 12volts when key is turned to START

When the smaller terminal wire has 12v this RELAY Closes, and sends 12v from larger left terminal to larger right terminal and that activates the starter solenoid on the starter motor

The starter RELAY needs a GOOD ground, the screws that are holding it to inner fender are the grounds, and they look pretty rusty, pull one screw out and clean it, so its bare metal where it holds down/touches the Relay base

Then MAKE SURE trans is in Neutral or PARK

Turn key off

Use a short jumper wire and touch it between the 2 larger terminals on the starter relay, starter should activate IF......battery cables are OK, can handle the AMPS
Try it a few times
If no 'click, click, click' then battery cables are OK(and so is starter motor)
If it does 'click, click, click' then battery cables ARE the problem(or starter motor is)

If it doesn't 'click, click, click', then turn on key, and try starting with key(with NEW ground for Relay)
If it does the 'click, click, click' then New Relay is either not grounded or its bad

You can test the small terminal wire with volt meter, unplug it, hook up volt meter and turn key to START(clutch pedal DOWN if manual trans), should see steady 12.3volts or what ever battery reads now, if its under 9volts then this wire is corroded somewhare

Voltage Reads are as Follows:
• Key Off Left Post - 12.12
• Key to Start Middle/Right Post - 12.08
• Volt Testing small terminal at Relay (Key On /Clutch In) Reads 12.18 (Same as Battery)

Cut battery cables back and found NO White
• Cleaned battery post and cable ends. Broke and Replaced Positive Cable End
• Cleaned holes, replaced ground bolts at relay.
• Key off in Neutral/ Used Jumper (Click Click Click from Starter)

Broke Negative Cable End, Currently Replacing.

 

[sheep herder]

12.18 volts is a dead battery. It's not gonna start with that.

 

[RonD]

Yes, +1 ^^^

You can try charging it but its at EOL(end of life), batteries use chemical reactions to store and release voltage, the plates inside simply run out of chemicals after 5 or 6 years, its a function of time more than use, although draining a car battery down will shorten its life, as will over-charging it

Car battery's are designed to be used for 10-30seconds, to start the engine, then they are unused until next startup
Engine's alternator powers ALL vehicle electrics once engine is running, and it keeps battery charged for next time its needed.


But still check that starter relay has a good ground, and try jumping the relay to see if starter motor works manually