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grinding transmission noise


Ranger Sport Honduras

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Nov 16, 2008
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Honduras
Vehicle Year
2003
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sup people!

i got a new problem to fix, my brothers 00 3.0's 2wd m5od just started to make a grinding noise when a gear is engaged. the shifter is a bit hard to engage 1st from a dead stop, its been like that since he got it.

but now when a gear is engaged it makes a grinding or rattling noise on the tranny. it goes away as soon its in neutral again.
im thinking the throwout bearing went out. but i need a better opinion. what u guys think?

the tranny fluid was replaced a few months ago and its the right fluid on the right level.


thanks in advance,
RSH
 
in my 90 ranger when my 5 speed went out the syncros wore out causing me not to be able to shift into first from a dead stop. Only on a roll just before a stop could I sometimes get it to slide into 1st. The big grinding noise I hhad was both front and rear berrings went dry and galled. Right before they sieze they make horrible noise and can wear out the case. If you have a mitsu trans 5 speed they are becoming hard to find and harder to find rebuildable cores. The more you drive it the worse it will get. One good note, if the trans gets quiet in 4th gear that is normal. maybe run straight Lucas oil if you can pump it in the side. this can extend the inevatible.
 
its an M5OD trans. ill drive it tomorrow to get a better description and if it makes the noise while driving
 
We had those exact symptoms twice on our 94 ranger. The first time it was a bad slave cylinder that was failing to push the clutch fingers far enough. Got a grinding every time we shifted into reverse and it was hard to put it into first gear.
The next time we had those symptoms, 2 years later, we discovered a loss of hydraulic fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. We then looked for the leak and found that the clutch master cylinder on the firewall was leaking fluid. Replaced that master yesterday and all is fine again.
So, the big question is, have you lost any clutch hydraulic fluid? If the fluid in your clutch master cylinder reservoir is full, I"d bet my bucks that you've got a bad slave cylinder. No fun to change, big job. They are notorious for failing.
The service manual for our 94 ranger give a measurement of how far the hydraulic system is supposed to move the clutch fingers. If the clutch is not being pushed that far, you have a hydraulic problem at either the master or the slave. If you want that spec out of the 94 manual, just post back or PM me.
 
i havent checked the reservoir level, ill check it in a while, but i would like to have the spces ur mentioning for future reference.
Thanks!
 
The TO bearing would squeal like a pig if it were bad. What kind of shape is the shifter in? When you are in neutral, does the shifter return to "home" or center when you push it to the left or right, then let go? The M5OD in my Explorer had tons of slop in it, and would always grind. The trans shop told me that shifter was worn out and was causing the ruckus. I also had the trans built at the same time because of the damage the shifter and low fluid caused. But it shifted wonderfully from then on.
 
Last edited:
If fluid is up, then measure the "total pilot bearing travel".
This is from the 94 service manual.
With the rubber inspection plug removed, position bearing travel gauge (you'll have to make something up to measure) against the clutch slave cylinder. Take a reading as to where the clutch pilot bearing sits with the clutch pedal fully up. Then have someone depress the clutch pedal and take a second measurement. The difference between the two is total bearing travel.
If bearing travel is greater than 7.5 mm (0.3 inch) replace clutch pressure plate or disc. If bearing travel is less than 7.5 mm replace the malfunctioning clutch hydraulic system part (this would be slave cylinder or master cylinder).

The above boils down to this. If the hydraulic system is not pushing the pilot bearing against the clutch finger more than 7.5 mm. you have a hydraulic problem. Unfortunately, it probably is a slave cylinder that is bypassing and not pushing your bearing far enough. That happened to us. Not a fun job to replace. Lots of posts on this site for how to do. Hope the above spec helps.
 
If fluid is up, then measure the "total pilot bearing travel".
This is from the 94 service manual.
With the rubber inspection plug removed, position bearing travel gauge (you'll have to make something up to measure) against the clutch slave cylinder. Take a reading as to where the clutch pilot bearing sits with the clutch pedal fully up. Then have someone depress the clutch pedal and take a second measurement. The difference between the two is total bearing travel.
If bearing travel is greater than 7.5 mm (0.3 inch) replace clutch pressure plate or disc. If bearing travel is less than 7.5 mm replace the malfunctioning clutch hydraulic system part (this would be slave cylinder or master cylinder).

The above boils down to this. If the hydraulic system is not pushing the pilot bearing against the clutch finger more than 7.5 mm. you have a hydraulic problem. Unfortunately, it probably is a slave cylinder that is bypassing and not pushing your bearing far enough. That happened to us. Not a fun job to replace. Lots of posts on this site for how to do. Hope the above spec helps.

Are you sure you don't mean the throw out bearing? The pilot bearing goes in the crank.
 
Your right, I meant the throw out bearing.
 

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