Got some headers and I'm worried about snapping the bolts

[Dweano]

Ok well the title pretty much said it all. I got some headers and i'm worried about snapping off the stock bolts in the block. Which would not be good! So what do you guys suggest? Penetrating oil obviously...then what? Just go slow and try not to break things? Also if i go break off a bolt in the block...what are my options? Thanks

 

[94STXRanger]

Dont be worried, because you will. Just spray them with penetrating oil for a few days. It might help to heat them some before you remove them. And the ones you do break, try and easy-out them.

 

[prefab08]

well i usaly soke then in castle penatrating fluid every morning and night for a fue days. then i get my metric and standerd 6 point socket sets out and pic the one that fits when tapped with a hammer on. i give it a try if it works awsome... if not i heat the nut with my torch set. it usaly works every time

 

[Combs Customs]

On my 91 4.0L there are 6 bolts a side. 3 upper 3 lower. The 3 lower are usually ok, since they are blind holes (bolt doesnt stick out the other side). The upper 3, the holes are in a flange, so the bolt sticks out the backside. Because of this, rust can build up on the exposed threads, and when you start to remove them they are more likely to snap. Good penetrating oil and at least a propane torch. When i did my headers i had the engine out, I broke 4 of the 6 uppers.

Oh yea, Good Luck.

 

[Ranger44]

I agree with what he said. The uppers are usually the culprit.

On a 4.0 I broke 1 off on the drivers side head. It came out with a little heat and an easy out.

Now, on my 3.0.....while replacing the manifolds, to rid it of an exhaust leak and some rigged exhust setup, I ended up snapping off 2 on the drivers side head. I used PB blaster, and heat from both a propane torch and oxy/act. One ended up breaking flush with the flange. Sooooo.....

The head is coming off. Drill and tap. There is really no way to drill the hole straight with it inside the truck. Down side, time and $100 gasket set. Upside? It's done the right way, and will not leave room for the chance of drilling the hole cocked or ruining the manifold surface, etc. This would only cause more of a headache, and cost me more $$$.

I'd suggest spraying the suckers 2-3 times a day for a week or 2 (yes, seriously)with PB or Castle (or another good brand) pentrating fluid.

 

[irishblessing]

soak them with pb blaster for a couple hours or try it or over night

 

[Dweano]

Ah! Horror stories haha! Alright i'll get some serious penetrating fluid. PB blaster? Good stuff? I'll try. And when you say soak it for a day, days, week, two weeks, etc. Does that mean like leaving it? Or can i spray in the morning, drive it, and then sprey/soak overnight? Or would getting it to operating temperature mess things up? Also i saw this stuff somewhere and SOUNDS like it is good stuff. Anyones used it before and think it would be good for this application? Thanks

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

You should try to put headers on a 76 Trans Am with a 400 Pontiac stuffed in it.......I think i went to Church for a month and prayed before I went at it.

Sorry to change the subject....................had a flash back........lol.

 

[irishblessing]

try putting headers on a 71 duster with a 340 with power steering theres no room damn dodges!

 

[snake]

Sheee... that ain't nothin', try putting a set of headers on a '81 Yugo with a 4 banger...

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

try putting headers on a 71 duster with a 340 with power steering theres no room damn dodges!

When I did the long tube headers on my dads 73 340 duster, I set the headers in first, then dropped the engine in. Had to dent tune a couple tubes to clear the PS box but overall they fit very well.

I can't wait to try and shoehorn in the long tubes into my 72 mustang with a 429 and power steering.....

 

[ranger_mclaren]

Oh... theres nothing I hate more than exhaust bolts! sorry can't give ya any advise every engine I've worked on were I needed to remove the heads I always snap all of'em off lucly I've got a friend in mantince were I work at and I just give'me to him he can get'em out for me. In fact he's been working on a set of 2.9s at his home garage for me.

 

[reds61on]

I was reading an article from Willy Worthy in a 4x4 magazine. He used a new product from Loctite that would freeze the rust at -45 degrees, cracking it and allowing the penetrating oil to get in. I had a rust problem with my parking brake unit in the cab. It was rusted tight from the cab being wet and sitting for a long time. I tried PB Blaster, soaking it many times and tapping it right after words. Didn't work. I went to my local auto parts store but they didn't have the Loctite stuff. They did have CRC Freeze-Off that works the very same way and is $6 cheaper per can. Soaked the p-brake unit, let it sit for a couple of minutes, tapped it with a hammer and it broke free immediately. Saved me a royal pain in trying to replace the unit! Header bolts may be another story but for $3.99 give it a shot.

 

[baxtej44]

not trying to hijack, but anybody reccomend for a 88 xlt 2.9L?

these increase performance correct?

 

[CJREX]

Sheee... that ain't nothin', try putting a set of headers on a '81 Yugo with a 4 banger...

This it?

To the OP, PB Blaster is great stuff but I'm definitely gonna try the Freeze off next time.

Go ahead and expect to break at least 1 or 2. Have a propane or MAPP torch handy.

Be sure to post up your impressions of the performance improvement.

And Good Luck!