Got A Second Ranger

[mrecoolgar]

Found this one local.
2.9 AT 4x4.
Never owned a 4x4 before.
It runs and drives but has coolant in the oil.
I understand the 89+ heads are less prone to cracking.
So I'm hoping it's a simple head gasket(s) repair.
Any tips from anyone experiencing the same?

 

[Beef52751]

TIP: Dont run or drive it if it has coolant in the oil, id drain the oil and get to work!!!
Good luck and nice buy!!!
Beef

 

[93Ranger4x4]

I like the homemade cup holder

 

[CJREX]

Heads likely cracked.

Maybe overheated? Don't drive it until you've made sure what is causing the problem.

It's an '89 which means that if worse comes to worst and you need an engine, a 4.0 is easy to swap in.

I did the swap in my '89 and it's the best thing I ever did to it.

If you do decide to go 4.0, PM me and I'll email you the doc I used for the wiring.

The mechanical portion is a bolt-in.

Good Luck and nice truck!

 

[mrecoolgar]

Thanks all, I was afraid that the head(s) may be cracked.
I would be very interested in a 4.0 swap.
I scanned over the tech info on this forum.
We have a U-Pull where I can obtain a motor for under $100.
Please fill me in on how you did yours.

 

[Sevensecondsuv]

If the head are cracked, (most likely they are being a 2.9), I'd get new or reman'd heads for it. They're not that expensive ($400 to my door with a complete top end gasket set and head bolts, for my 4.0) and buying a junkyard 2.9 the heads are likely to be cracked as well.

 

[mrecoolgar]

Interesting, where did your purchase?
I may go the 4.0 route.

 

[Deamers87ford]

hey man i saw that ranger for sale on criagslist look like she in good shape i just bought a bronco II with cracked heads but im just rebuildin the 2.9 you goin to lift the ranger maybe we could go wheeling some time

 

[mrecoolgar]

You saw it, so I'm not the only one looking for one in other states.
I deff got my $ worth, new tires, cap, rack system.
Those darn 2.9 head thou.

 

[Deamers87ford]

yeah looks like it got a low amount of rust on it and make sure u stop runnin it not a good thing to have coolent running threw ur motor

 

[mrecoolgar]

With the price of reman heads, bolts, head + intake gaskets I've been considering a 4.0 swap.
I read the tech info on the swap and some threads on those that have already done.
Any first hand info anyone would like to give?

 

[mrecoolgar]

I looked at a 90 STX today.
Green with gray interior, SC, 4.0.
It drove well and showed 90k mileage.
It was a bit rusty but workable.
I may have to get it.
A friend may be buying my blue 90 that I just got 2 weeks ago.

 

[mrecoolgar]

I've located a complete running 2.9 for $200.
But I'm contemplating the famous 4.0 swap.
I haven't found a donor yet so I'm unsure of costs.
I've read all the swap info posted here and have come up with the following.
Please correct me if wrong.

Recipient:
1990 Ranger SC 4x4 2.9 A4LD

Donor:
Unknown

Parts Required 4.0:
1990-1992 Ranger or Explorer 4.0 Engine complete with accessories, ac, ps and alt
Throttle cable and cruise control cable assembly
Air tube with air filter housing, and mass air flow
Under hood wiring harness with distribution box
Computer
Exhaust manifolds, crossover pipe and catalytic converter
Fuel lines, later models with EFI will be the easiest, all that's necessary is the adaption of the quick-connects for the fuel send and return lines in the engine bay
AC lines, air conditioning systems have some configuration changes between 1992 and 1993 models. Pre-1993 models used the same receiver/dryer and evaporator, so obtain an A/C hose setup from a 1992 or earlier engine
Starter

Parts Suggested 4.0:
Transmission
Explorer 4 row radiator
D28 front axle to D35
Under hood emissions tag

Parts Retained 2.9:
Transmission
Motor mounts, the 4.0 mounts require drilling the Pside frame rail
Exhaust Y-pipe and catalytic converter

Maintenance:
Replace engine rear main seal, the rear seal on the 4.0L has always been prone to leakage. It appears that the original factory finish on the seal surface was too slick, so the seal just couldn’t control the oil. Ford offers a repair kit that comes with a sleeve and a seal (p/n F5TZ-6701-A), but it costs about $50 at the dealership. Rebuilders should definitely install a sleeve over the factory seal surface, but there are better alternatives in the aftermarket; Micro Sleeve (800-475-3383) and Classic (800-393-0544) both offer sleeves for the 4.0L cranks
Check pushrods for wear, the pushrods and rockers on the 4.0L tend to show a lot of wear, even on engines with low miles. We suspect that there are two reasons for this problem: (1) The material in the rockers appears to be too soft, so they wear on the tip, and; (2) there’s not enough oil getting to the pushrod socket, so it gets worn out, too
Replace transmission front seal

 

[rickcdewitt]

looking like a good start,heres a few tips

1)i think your fuel lines will plug right into the 4.0 lines,in the same spot even.

2)the catalytic verter is the same,and the 02 sensor. the y-pipe should work but may be slightly smaller pipe

3)these motors crack heads and sink valves so if at all possible take off the rocker shafts and sight along the valve stems to make sure one of them isen't higher than the others.intake and exhaust are two different heights but its still easy to tell.

better to check before it goes in the truck so you can run it straight back to the yard for another.the first 4.0 i got my hands on had 50,000 miles on it and ran o.k. but had sunk exhaust valves.

 

[mrecoolgar]

Many thanks !