Goofy newbie Dana 35 question

[Greg and Drew]

Drew and I picked up a ranger this last fall and he has decided it will be a worthwhile project for the 2 of us. We have a roached 1350 electric transfer case, but the good fortune is that we have a good 1350 manual to replace it along with an '89 parts truck we'd be happy to share. All good.

Problem is with the front differential - we ground out the upper side of the drivers beam to remove the bolt holding the case in position, but due to some crappy stripped out fasteners getting the differential end of the drive shaft off has proved to be a real challenge. As a result, I can't seem to get the differential out of the axle housing. With all driveline components removed, are there any hold-ups on getting the pumpkin out?

If we have to resort to the gas axe to get the bolts out of the diff that's fine - looks like the only option now. Just want to verify with the guys that have been there the center section will come out without further agony.

Thanks, Greg

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

You have to remove the pinch bolt and the 10 bolts on the front of the beam and then its just RTV sealant holding it on there.

 

[MikeWild]

Not quite sure based on your description, but did you remove the front axles? Why are you removing the diff for a t-case swap?

 

[Greg and Drew]

Axles and bolts that hold the pumpkin in the stamped steel TTB axle are out. Bolts that remain are the torx socket heads that hold the driveshaft to the pinion. Those are the bolts I'm afraid we're going to have to remove with the torch. The primary purpose of this exercise is to replace the U-joint by the transfer case.

Soo - if I'm interpreting the early comments correctly the center section will come out of the stamped steel axle without further disassembly once we get the front piece of the driveshaft off?

Thx, Greg

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Yes. Hit those driveshaft bolts with a little heat as they will be locktight'd in there and will come out easier once heated. They are a torx T30 bit.

 

[351crownvic]

So you are taking the diff out to replace the U-joints by the transfercase??? Thats definatly the long way around taking the driveshaft out. X10 with heat!!! don't heat the bolt heat the yoke and be gentle with the T30's! I believe napa sells the kit to replace the t30's with 8 mill bolts.

 

[AllanD]

I just noticed something here, you are saying Dana35,
but you are talking about a 1350 T-case....

IF you have a 13-50 you have a Dana28, unless you retrofitted the D35 into it...

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[Shran]

Careful with the torch in there - those bolts are pretty small and real easy to burn off. I would try a propane or mapp torch with no oxygen...always works great for me.

Like the above replies, taking the whole 3rd member out of the beam is definitely the hard way and it won't work at all unless you have already removed the transfer case.

 

[Greg and Drew]

Sorry for the confusion, must have sounded like an idiot. The U joint we are working on is the one on the passenger side by the center section, taking the C/S out to remove the C clip so we can get the inside part of the passenger side axle out to replace the U-joint.

It's definitely a D35, T-case is a 1350. guy that we bought the truck from commented that he had replaced the t-case, why he went from a manual to an electric is beyond me. The hole is still in the floor covered by a sheet of aluminum. Any downside to sticking with a 1350 case but swapping in the manual one? Our parts truck is D28/1350 manual.