Going to buy a 302 on thurs. I got a question?

[RangerRyan]

I'm going to buy a 60s or 70s 302 I don't know if it runs but I'm going to do a rebuild anyways so it doesn't matter. they said it had between 80k-120k miles on it. It's complete with everything even comes with an auto trans for $200. I'm going to try and talk them down a little. The thing I'm worried is if the motor block is cracked. I'm going to see if cranks before I buy it. is there anyway to tell if it's cracked other then taking it apart?
I don't know what kind of tranny it is but I think I might try and make my money back on it.

 

[baddad457]

No way to tell if it's cracked (unless it's a really big crack) until it's taken completely apart, cleaned and mag'd. I bought a 289 like this, everything looked fine until the test. It had minute cracks around many of the head bolt holes in the deck. The brite side is if everything's there, you can recoup some of your investment by parting it out on ebay. The timing cover, intake manifold parts, timing pointer,etc, all that small stuff is worth money.

 

[klogtruck]

you said you're going to see if it run's, make sure it's full of water, if it will run you'll know if the block is cracked. mite have to let it run till it warms up.

 

[RangerRyan]

No, I'm not going to see if it runs. I'm just going to manually crank it with a socket to see if the rods and everything will turn.

 

[Snoranger]

$200 with a trans. If it turns over, buy it. You can part it out, scrap the rest and make the $200 back, if there is a problem.

 

[baddad457]

If the block is cracked bad enough, the oil will look milky. No milky oil = chances are the block's OK. Even if the oil is milky, that can also be from it being stored improperly, as if it's sitting out in the yard uncovered, exposed to rain.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If the block is cracked bad enough, the oil will look milky. No milky oil = chances are the block's OK. Even if the oil is milky, that can also be from it being stored improperly, as if it's sitting out in the yard uncovered, exposed to rain.

Even that isn't a sure bet though.

Some of the engines we get in with the most carnage have the prettiest oil. Like finally giving the engine its 10 year oil change AFTER it is all but locked up will suddenly cure it.

Exposed to rain is a major negative to me, water freezing in the sleeve causes horrendous engine damage. Even then it doesn't take much to make that shiny sleeve flash rust so the engine will turn over a little bit for the initial check "ok it ain't stuck" test at the guys house and then later you end up pulling the heads because it won't turn all the way over.

 

[baddad457]

Even that isn't a sure bet though.

Some of the engines we get in with the most carnage have the prettiest oil. Like finally giving the engine its 10 year oil change AFTER it is all but locked up will suddenly cure it.

Exposed to rain is a major negative to me, water freezing in the sleeve causes horrendous engine damage. Even then it doesn't take much to make that shiny sleeve flash rust so the engine will turn over a little bit for the initial check "ok it ain't stuck" test at the guys house and then later you end up pulling the heads because it won't turn all the way over.

Yea, that's why I included the "chances are" part. Nothing's a given when picking a junkyard motor when you can't hear it run first.

 

[Snoranger]

Yea, that's why I included the "chances are" part. Nothing's a given when picking a junkyard motor when you can't hear it run first.

Your right, but a motor and trans for $200. Its worth that in scrap value. Worst case, you buy it, everything is shot. You spend a little time ripping it all apart. Keep a few odds and ends, and scrap the rest. If its a fully dressed motor, you wind up with all the brackets, pulleys, and accessories (maybe just for cores on rebuilt stuff, but core charges add up quick.)

You can look at this way. Your getting all the stuff that will nickle and dime you to death.