It all depends on how you drive. If you can find a gear that will keep the rpms up around 2500, you could tow with it. Thing is, off of your stock tires, I'm guessing you'll have 15% less torque at the ground and that means more clutch wear, and a 15% less effective clutch to get it moving. It means that the motor will typically be required to deliver 15% more torque which means more heat and more wear on the engine. My '91 Ranger (most of it still lives in my '89 B2) came with 3.55s and 29" 235-75/15s. When I went to 31s, we had 4.10s installed and it stayed the same. 33s would mean 4.56s to keep it as nearly correct as possible.
I hate riding with people who think they know how to drive. I let someone drive my diesel Passat and he's slipping the clutch on every shift. I told him, try letting the clutch all the way up before you add power. So he tries it and says, "Wow, you really can do that with this diesel," and I said, "No, that's how the **** you are supposed to drive anything!"
The gear spacing is the same no matter what size tires you have. With bigger tires, your engine thinks it's just hauling a bigger load. You have to give it a little more time to accelerate because it's down 15% in torque, and let the clutch up before you give it power so you don't wear it out. Doing the clutch and gas simultaneously is amatuer and kills the clutch. A clutch will outlast the truck if you drive it right. Brakes last 50,000, or 30,000, and they are slipped as a rule. A clutch just gets you rolling from a stop and shouldn't see heat after that.
Don't hack away at it like you are churning butter and you could be fine with 3.73s and 33s for a long time. I had 4.10s and 35s before and it was alright. I was glad to get the 31s back on. I like lots of gear.
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