Gas guage don't work

[Hairball]

Hi still kind of a newbie here and the ranger world. I have a 1993 Ranger with 3.0 5 speed. I have heard there is a ground wire or something like that comes loose . Does anyone know where that wire is? I hate having a gas guage not working. Do I have to remove the tank? I di manage to get fluid in the tranny. Took 2.5 quarts!!!!! I believe she was about dry. That was not easy to get to ,

 

[snake]

Most of the time a bad fuel gauge is because the float in the tank got a small hole in it and it sank. Is the gauge at the bottom, below "E"? These floats are removable, just clip on and only cost about 12 bux. But you have to drop the tank or remove the bed to get to it. I think if you remove the wire connector for the sending unit and turn the key on, the gauge should go past full. If it does, the gauge is fine and the problem is in the tank.

 

[Earl43P]

Hello Hairball and welcome to The Ranger Station!

Typical fuel gage problem for that era truck is a float that has rotted (it fills with gas and no longer floats, gage always reads empty). If it were a wiring/ground problem, it will read Full all the time (sender is 145 ohms at Full, 22.5 ohms at Empty so a short will make it read empty and an open [broken wire or bad ground] will make it read Full).

The good news is the new float is only $8 at the Ford dealer.
The bad news is you need to get the top of the tank off; most people just remove the bed. Others drop the tank.

More good news is that I have a lot of the schematics for 93 from the EVTM.
If you'd like to have those, send me a PM with your e-mail address and I'll send that right out. If you don't know how to send a Private Message, click on my username and it will appear as an option.

 

[bert296]

i have this same problem gas gauge doesnt work it reads just under 1/4 most of the time and occasionally it reads right any ideas?

 

[Andy D]

is it an act of heresy to sawzall an access port ?

 

[shane96ranger]

is it an act of heresy to sawzall an access port ?

Some people have done that by going to the JY and cutting a larger hole out of another bed for a cover. I personally think that looks like a$$, so I would recommend removing the bed as Earl mentioned. To remove the bed you only need to remove the 6 bed bolts, 3 screws on the filler neck, and undo the tail light harness. You also need an assistant to lift the bed. Just soak the piss out of the bed bolts for a couple days (spray them a few times with PB Blaster or equivalent) and they should come out nicely.

 

[Twisted_Steel]

One other thing. If you decide to remove the bed, it will be a good time to assess your fuel filler tube. They are notorious for cracking and spilling fuel out from under the bed. I bet you will find minor cracks or worse when you inspect it. I bought a filler hose on ebay for about $40, trashed the flimsy inner tube (it is not rigid like the factory one)and just put the outer hose on my filler neck.

Good luck

 

[adsm08]

is it an act of heresy to sawzall an access port ?

Looks bad and can harm the integrity of the bed floor on Rangers. It's common practice on B2's and if you make your patch plate right it will be quite invisible with the carpet down.

 

[GoodOld85BlueBalls]

Remove the bed to gain access. Then install body lift when putting bed back on. two birds one stone!

 

[Hairball]

Thanks everyone. Looks like the bed is coming off the old girl. No way would I cut a patch in a truck in this good of shape. Very nice for this part of Indiana. Earl email is danny91194@yahoo.com. I hope that is all it is. That sounds easy enough. I do have a little mechanics in me. Changed engine in my old Torino. Changed timing chain in my 22re. Have changed the sending unit on my toyota also. This should be no problem. Well now I went and jinxed myself LOL