Fuel pump help needed

[Jackrabbit]

The fuel pump on my B-4000 seems to have gone bad (already replaced filter, fuel inertia switch, and checked relay). While checking Napa's online parts site, I came across this pump that they claim is an "upgrade" from the OEM pump:

http://www.napaautoparts.com/Search...102_0199735462&An=599001+101994+50042+2042044

Does anyone have experience with this pump? Would it be worth the extra money or should I stay with OEM?

 

[modelageek]

I am not trying to ruin your "Parts Replacement Party" but I was wondering what your fuel pressure is? did you pull the vacuum line of the fpr?( not sure where the fpr is on the B's) does it run at all? did you throw any codes?

 

[Jackrabbit]

I'm not sure where the fuel pressure regulator is either or even if this model has one outside of the pump assembly. I would assume it does. As well I do not have a code reader. To read the codes would involve going to the mechanic with the over-the-top $450.00 charge if it is in fact the fuel pump.
The way I came to this conclusion is, from what I have learned, the fuel pump on most any vehicle starts going out somewhere around 200,000 miles. I have 205,000. From those I have consulted, the symptoms I am having fit a classic fuel pump failure. I have also learned that many replaced their fuel pumps only to learn the problem was the fuel inertia switch. That part is cheap and the new design is more reliable, so even though that was not the problem, I left it so I wouldn't have any problems in the future and kept the old one as a spare. I know I may be going down the wrong road here, but a code reader is almost as much as the fuel pump and the temp here is in the single digits. I either need to pay to tow to a shop and pay a bunch of money I don't have or tow to my friends garage/shop and replace the pump and see what it gets me.

 

[mini274]

find the fpr on the fuel rail and check it then do the pump it has one on the rail

 

[modelageek]

if you find the fpr pull the vacuum line off there should not be fuel in it

 

[martin]

do you have voltage at the inertia switch?

 

[Jackrabbit]

Thanks for the info. I will check for the fpr my next day off.

 

[dock83]

If you truck is not starting listen too the tank to make sure the pump is kicking in too do this it is easier with 2 people all you have to do is have someone listen to the tank while you turn the key to the run position do not start the engine and you will hear the punp buzz {kick in}. If this is so turn the key to this position several times and leve it until the pump stops then try starting the engine. This will help you build up some pressure in the fuel rail and maybe get her running. If this is so your pump is for sure weak and needs to be replaced. also if their is no sound it could be the plug in the top of your sending unit wiring not too hard to fix.

 

[Jackrabbit]

do you have voltage at the inertia switch?

Thanks to all of you who made me second-guess just replacing the fuel pump. After taking the bed off (not a hard job actually), the power supply was easier to test. I had a friend, who works trouble-shooting electrical on aircraft, come over and he followed the resistance trail all of the way back to the Fuel Pump Relay. Conveniently, the A/C relay is the same, so after a quick load test, she fired right up. She wasn't happy with sittin' so long.

Lessen learned: test the $12 part before replacing the $98 part. My friend saved me $83. Guess I owe him a few more dinners.

As long as the bed is off, I guess I will do some rust prevention and see about modifying my spare tire bracket to handle my larger tires.