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Fuel pressure overwhelming carb...


I would avoid using two regulators to go from 60-2-15 and then 15-2-5. Basically a PSI drop is caused by a restriction (smaller hole - creates heat and pressure behind the restriction) and then the fluid ahead expands into a larger space (hopefully metal fuel line) where it drops heat and pressure. You could go with the high pressure regulator as long as the by-pass feeds back to the tank, where the gas cools, then install an orifice (drill a brass plug) between the OUT of the regulator and fuel gauge. Your orifice could be as simple as a brass barbed 3/8 or 1/4" hose mender (to EFI fuel line) and you just cut off a step (or less) to increase pressure.

I do not have the information handy, but, there is a (OLD) Dodge fuel filter that has a return line to the gas tank to prevent vapor lock, it is useful for large hot engines in small places when installed right before carb.

Personally, I would drop the high pressure pump, you do not need it, it adds amp draw, and you have to account for the safety issues it poses.

I would invest in a good fire extinguisher system, could be as simple as two mounted in the cab.

> wouldnt the -6AN just inhibit the flow from the start

Generally speaking to avoid user error, you try to make the IN big and the OUT smaller, so, people do not cross connect. This is why newer vehicles have smaller negative terminals including modern marine terminals. Not only is the post connector smaller, but, the eyelet connector is 3/8 for (+) and 5/16 for (-) on newer marine terminals.

I try not to look at it as how much money I spent, but, how much knowledge and enjoyment I reaped by the process.

Example: I made a lot of mistakes making my own sawmill, even after owning one to copy. You really can twist 1/4" angle into a pretzel with too much MIG heat 🙃
 
I do not have the information handy, but, there is a (OLD) Dodge fuel filter that has a return line to the gas tank to prevent vapor lock, it is useful for large hot engines in small places when installed right before carb.

same as these style filters.


 
Yes, that style, except that is for an ATV with small lines.
 
All 2001 to 2011 Ranger fuel filters have that 3rd port return line, but it needs to have a fuel pressure regulator on it in the gas tank or it will just be an AIR opening, lol
There is no valve in the filter itself, the IN from Tank and OUT to Return are open
 
The in tank pump (I researched for my Incompletebut progressing 87 5.0 carbd build) has 12 psi rating at full flow. It will flow a ton of fuel. There should be NO HP pump in circuit.

Delphi spec, walbro spec as well.
Unless you didn’t buy an OE style in tank LP pump.

I have the exact same parts for my build.
 

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