Fuel pouring in cylinder

[CheapThrills]

Okay, so I had a misfire Cyl. #1, took off intake, now i've replaced all the injectors because i've had an extra set that we sent off to an injector cleaning place, and got a flow chart on they're good. Now when I turn the key to check for leaks, there are no more leaks, but fuel is just pouring into cyl 3/5.. iirc, shouldn't 1 fill up as well? i'm hoping for a quick answer I have it taken apart and would just like confirmation

2006 ranger, 4.0 SOHC

 

[RonD]

I guess I am not understanding your question???

'06 has sequential injection, so only 1 injector opens at a time.
There is one 12v wire that goes from injector to injector, then 6 separate ground wires, one for each injector, that come from the Computer.
If one, or more, of those ground wires were chaffed, and grounded, then that(those) injector(s) would open when key was turned on.

No injectors should be open with key on/engine off, computer doesn't start spark or open injectors until crank is moving(CKP sensor)

 

[CheapThrills]

ok. thanks for your help.. time to step away from it before i screw it up more

 

[adsm08]

Sounds like you have some bad injectors. I have to ask though, if 3 and 5 are flooding why would you assume that 1 should be flooding also?

 

[CheapThrills]

Sounds like you have some bad injectors. I have to ask though, if 3 and 5 are flooding why would you assume that 1 should be flooding also?

just a thought.. going to replace them two injectors now

 

[FritzTKatt]

Check your ignition/injector harness for faults. You can pull the harness fairly easily with it all apart like you have it.

Check ohms on your multimeter, and reference which pins correspond in your shop manual. None of the wires should register any significant resistance, and if they do, you will know that one is the bad one. As RonD explained, that leak will cause your fault.

It is odd, and possibly not the problem unless you messed up the harness working on it. Since 1 would still be shooting fuel if the wiring was the ONLY problem. I'd replace the faulty injectors with the old ones (old, but functioning), and check the harness. If both are good, it's beyond me.

Look into how to bench test an injector, I'd imagine that you can use the multimeter to check it for faults.

 

[Andy D]

what do the plugs look like? I dont know the finer points of late Ford EFI , but a weak spark that wont ignite the entire charge can load the exhaust with unburnt fuel pretty quick. I dont have a clue about what passes for ignition components in new cars . And shouldn't this be sending codes to tell the tech what to replace?

 

[adsm08]

The ignition components are all the same as they have ever been, since you were a wee lad Andy. The only things that really changed are the number of coils, how far they are from the plug, and what tells them to fire. In some respects the current setups are actually simpler than the old points/breaker ones.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[CheapThrills]

the plugs look fine. we just put this motor in about 10k miles ago.

UPDATE - I put it all back together, tried to turn it over, and it cranked about half way of a stroke, and now it just clicks. I have it all taken apart again now

edit: can not manually crank the engine over with the starter on/off the vehicle and in neutral

 

[CheapThrills]

put everything back together, no crank

 

[Andy D]

put everything back together, no crank

No crank? As in the crankshaft doesn't turn? Is the battery any good? Can you turn the crank with a bar. Pull the plugs and try to turn over the crank.Does the dip stick look/ smell of gas? Also, check the fuel pressure regulator. If gas runs out of the vacuum line, it has been dumping gas into the intake.

 

[RonD]

the plugs look fine. we just put this motor in about 10k miles ago.

UPDATE - I put it all back together, tried to turn it over, and it cranked about half way of a stroke, and now it just clicks. I have it all taken apart again now

edit: can not manually crank the engine over with the starter on/off the vehicle and in neutral

Yes, pull the plugs(all the plugs), could be a "hydrolock", fluid(hydro) doesn't compress like air, so if you did have fluid in the cylinders then piston "locks" at the top because it can not get past TDC.
Removing spark plugs will allow the fluid to escape.

You should be able to turn the crank backwards if it is hydrolocked.
If you can't turn it either way then you have a spun main bearing.