Fuel Filter Broke Off In Carb HELP

[Jaeke]

Hey guys! First post, happy I found this forum! About 2 weeks ago, I picked myself up a 1984 Ford Ranger V6 2.8L for $400. I don't know much about cars, but I've always been interested and I work in a field that is surrounded by them. I've been learning a work, but not learning much. So, I decided this would be a good opportunity to learn a bunch! The truck ran FANTASTIC, until it died on the corner of an intersection and wouldn't fire back up. A random dude helped me push it into the parking lot of a 7-11 and I proceeded to call my buddy and ask him if he could pick up some spark plugs and wires. After about 25 mins, we had the spark plugs and wires replaced. The old plugs were trashed. I started up the truck and began to drive. It then proceeded to bog ALL the way home. My buddy said it might the fuel filter or the jets inside the carb. The next day I got home from work and proceeded to move the air filter and its housing off of the carb. Then the fuel line, which I pushed to the side. I began to unscrew the fuel filter until it wouldn't budge, it was stuck. I tried a bit harder and.... SNAP. The threads got stuck inside the carb, while the rest of the filter broke off. The next day, I borrowed an EZ out set to see if I could get the threads out, but the metal is too weak for the EZ Out to grab. I now have no clue what to do. I'd rather not replace the entire carb.

I was wondering if anyone knows if I can get the specific part that has the fuel inlet in it, and just replace that part on the carb?

And I apologize if it seems like I have no clue what im talking about, I am extremely new to this. And if any clarification is needed, I'd be glad to give it.

Thank you in advance.

 

[Kevin Evans]

I did the same thing before I tried using an EZ out/reverse bit things, but they only made it worse.

Assuming you have a Motorcraft 2150 carb, there's not a specific part you can replace. The majority of the carb bowl assembly is a big chunk of casted metal. I would suggest removing it and working on it on a bench.

Be sure to get all the shavings out from using the ez out... you'll need to open the carb, remove the needle valve and seat assembly to do this. I would also suggest just doing a rebuild by this point.

I ended up drilling it extremely (!!!!) carefully and using a pick thing to kinda pry it out. I used a 1/8" NPT (I think?) tap to remove the other bits. This is probably a bad idea, bit it worked. The filter was made of a fairly soft metal, but you'll need to be extra careful as the carb is a very soft aluminum or pot metal.

Maybe try using a thin file or saw or something to create notches on the filter. Then try using a flathead screwdriver to slowly unscrew it.

 

[Jaeke]

Okay, thank you! I'll give it a shot. But I'm pretty sure I messed up whats left of the fuel filter a bit too much. Im thinking of just replacing the carb..

 

[adsm08]

Sounds like time for fuel injection.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Sounds like time for fuel injection.

If you have the money for a new carb, something like the Fitech fuel injection kits might be worth checking into.

If you are in a non emissions area and on the cheap, a Holley 350 or a non feedback 2150 and duraspark ignition would be good options too.

Probably going to have to change the ignition with the EFI kits too.

 

[Jaeke]

Fuel Injection kit is a bit too expensive for me to be honest. Thank you though!

 

[Angie]

do they make FI for a 2.8??? I would just look into finding another carb that is 2 barrel. CL probaly find a cheap one. change the jets if if it is from a V8 from a v6 needs smaller amounts of fuel.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

do they make FI for a 2.8??? I would just look into finding another carb that is 2 barrel. CL probaly find a cheap one. change the jets if if it is from a V8 from a v6 needs smaller amounts of fuel.

If the stock fuel/ignition system is still in place (and was working correctly) he will need another feedback carb. The computer won't know how to adjust the timing without knowing what the throttle is doing.

If the stock fuel/ignition system has been changed, stay with a 1.08 venturi carb. I tried a 1.21 2100 and it was too big, the 2.8 didn't move enough air thru it... after I spent a saturday milling out the carb spacer so the bigger butterflies could move.

 

[bronco2fan]

I have the original carb for my 2.8 if you can't find one. If you need one, PM me and we'll work something out. It's just siting on my work bench lol.

 

[Angie]

If the stock fuel/ignition system is still in place (and was working correctly) he will need another feedback carb. The computer won't know how to adjust the timing without knowing what the throttle is doing.

ahhh. ok I thought it was meant as a Fuel Injected intake or carb for a 2.8.

I run a 2.8 in my Pinto that would be interesting as a fuel injected... but no computers in it... and I was sure a 2.8 engine with a carb didn't have any computer stuff. My 83 project was a 2.8 engine carbed and I can't recall anything more than a bunch of emissions vacuum lines and junk that got pulled out. maybe there was some small electronic doodads there that didn't mean anything to me.

cheers

 

[Jimmyrig]

I have dealt with similar issues on other cars by putting a left handed tap through it, big enough for the broken oart, but smaller than the original threads. Then put a left hand thread bolt in and tighten until it backs out. It may cost a few bucks, as left handed taps and bolts aren't common, but it works when an easy out wont. Or, if your near northwest oregon, I just pulled the carburetor you need off of a parts truck yesterday to keep for a spare and would happily part with it