Front Seats

[Alan_nc]

I've got a 94, 3.0, 2wd, auto extended cab (splash).

Will a passenger seat bolt directly into the drivers seat position?

My problem: My drivers seat is really beat down as most are. That is the seat that is always sat in. When you go to a junk yard the drivers seat is always in worse shape. I don't like the console anyway so a 40/40 seat setup would be fine with me. I don't care about not being able to reach the fold down lever, I can get to the back seat from the passengers side.

I have seen a video of cutting off the console to make a 40/40 set up but my drivers seat needs to have new foam and be recovered so that really isn't an option.

Any suggestions?

 

[Curious Hound]

I think Racsan is always recommending that as a solution.

 

[racsan]

yes! its a great idea, you do need to transfer the drivers side seat rails to the passenger seat. the only downside to this is that the seatback release will be on the inside (between the seats) instead of the outside (beside the door) Youre right, many passenger side seats have “low miles” while the drivers seat has had a a$$ in it for every mile on the truck. I took the flip-up console box and just sat it between the 2 seats, someday I might build my own console, you could also use another console from a ranger (like a 93 4x4 with front buckets). I saw one on fleabay once for $100. Thought about it but didnt buy.

 

[Alan_nc]

Not quite sure what you mean about the rail move. I was planning on just unbolting the seat directly from the floor (with all the hardware). According to my Haynes manual it's just 4 bolts to remove the whole thing. Then pick up a passengers side seat (with all the hardware) from the junk yard. I guess I'm wondering if the 4 bolt holes will line up.

Is there an easy guide to what year seats will be a direct swap? Are Explorer seats exactly the same?

 

[racsan]

the metal part (seat rails) between floor & the seat are “side-specific”. you cant just unbolt the seat assy from the floor of a passenger side & then bolt right in to a drivers side floor. You’ll need to unbolt the metal framework from your drivers side then bolt it on to the seat youre putting in. Im uncertain about explorer seats, they might work but not having done it myself, im not sure.
Id guess that staying within the same ranger generation (yours is a gen 3, 93-97) would be a safe bet. my drivers seat was out of a ‘97 and my truck is a ‘94.

 

[Alan_nc]

Thank you.

 

[mikkelstuff]

My 2002 front driver's seat was in similar terrible condition. I had Mr. Sid's near Denver (https://www.mrsidsupholstery.com/) re-foam/recover mine and replace the headliner as well. The result was amazing. Chances are you can find a local auto upholstery shop to do the same.

 

[Alan_nc]

Well I'm making progress .... I think.

Both seats are apart. Frames are apart and seperate from the seats. Will put new seat on frame from my car tomorrow. As I look at it I'm not sure how I'm going to handle the position of the seat back.

 

[Alan_nc]

Seat is in....YEA.

I made it way more work then is needed.

93 to 99 (I think) Passenger seat to replace drivers seat. Note: Yes I know it doesn't match but it was $10 and it's in real good condition.

Here is how to do it.

1. Get a passenger seat. Make sure you get one with all the track and adjustment parts.
2. Take the drivers seat out of your truck. 4 1/2" or 13mm bolts
Note: You really don't need to remove the seat belt parts.
3. Put passenger seat in place. Take a piece of chalk and mark where the back two holes are. The one by the door should be perfect. The one by the tunnel should be 1/2" off.
4. Take seat back out. I used a dremel with cutting disc to make the hole closest to the tunnel longer. See picture.
5. Put seat back in truck and bolt into place. The frame flexes some but the bolts should line up pretty close.

Thats it....really shouldn't take over maybe 2 hours.

Drove Floyd......it is so nice to have a seat with support and one that doesn't throw you against the door.