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Front Left U Joint Replacement?


CraigK

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2007
Messages
293
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Automatic
This question is similar to another recent thread, but slightly different. In order to continue driving my 1987 BII (i.e. to pass a safety inspection due to a "salvage" title), I must replace the front left U-joint, right close to the FL wheel.

How difficult is this thing to get to? It looks like a LOT of stuff has to come off to get at this, and the vehicle is 22 years old. Is this a do-it-yourself type job? How involved? As usual, any help appreciated. Thanks.

CraigK
 
It's not too difficult... a short breakdown

Remove the wheel and brake caliper and rotor
Remove the spindle
Pull the shaft out
Replace joint
Put it all back on


as1.GIF
 
Cool.
Thanks much. (There might still be some life in my BII.)

Quick follow-up question - Other than the u-joint itself, what other parts (seals?) or tools should I have on-hand to do this job?

CraigK
 
Cool.
Thanks much. (There might still be some life in my BII.)

Quick follow-up question - Other than the u-joint itself, what other parts (seals?) or tools should I have on-hand to do this job?

CraigK

There was discussion on here of using a slide hammer with a spindle attachment to pull the spindle off. The spindle will be seized on there from rust. You can use a Dana 35/44 spindle attachment on the hammer or you can use a hammer and a very sharp chisel and work your way around. Be careful not to damage the inside of the spindle. Anti-sieze the entire thing before reassembling.


I have learned that easiest way to put on a new joint is to use a oxyacetylene torch to burn the old joint out. Bend the shaft and burn the middle of the joint out and then just tap the ends out of the yoke. The reason to disassemble them this way is because the shaft is old and used and you don't want to beat it with a hammer for fear of bending or breaking it.
 
Done!

At first, I could not get the spindle to come off, so I put the disk back on and hammered it from the back side with an axe to break it free. (I was replacing the rotor anyways.)

If anyone else is doing this, I would recommend finding all the seals first. I had trouble locating a replacement for the inside front axle seal - the seal listed in the systems of both AutoZone and Advance Auto were incorrect - NAPA was able to cross-reference my old seal - for $29! There is also a spindle seat (as shown in the diagram above) that was rusted and will be difficult to obtain a replacement for. I had to grind down the rusted/damaged edges of mine to reuse it. Also, my brake backing plate (shown above as the splash sheild) is a rusted piece of scrap, but the FORD dealership could not even get one.

The u-joint I replaced was seized, and it now feels a lot less "lumpy" in 4x4.

CraigK
 

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