front diff change ??

[noel]

i know a lot of times when you do a job you find shortcuts to make it easier & sence i am extremly lazy,is there a easer way to change the front diff on a 98 ranger then taken both wheel hubs off to pull the axles ???
like can you drop the diff far enough to get enough slack to pop axles out ??
have never done this job before so need any tips from someone who has
thx noel

 

[Explorin94]

I have just taken out the driverside and left the passenger side in and dropped it that way. Justy make sure you pull the bolts on the CV Shaft.

 

[camodown]

here is a method used on newer rangers which should work on your 98 I believe

remove both tires
pop the upper ball joints on each spindle.
disconnect the driveshaft
remove the front right caliper
disconnect the right side shock from the LCA

next is to pull out the CVs they are clipped in and after some effort you can pry and then slide the Passenger CV out all the way and leave it.

on the drivers side you can pop the CV loose but it wont come all the way out of the diff becuse of clearance. this is ok. if you have a friend invite him over cause you will need help.

the diff is bolted up in 3 places. 2 above the diff and one on the driverside which is like 3bolts in the side of the diff and one on the frame.(some type of bracket)

as you are wiggling the diff out have a buddy slide the rest of driverside CV out. the diff should come out now. its HEAVY so becareful.

 

[shane96ranger]

It's easier if you don't touch a thing on the driver side. Don't even jack it up. I've done it three times; twice on the ground, once on a lift (my friend owns a transmission shop). I prefer the ground. It goes together better for me if that side is compressed instead of hanging.

This is the method I used (link below) minus the locker install, and I can have it done in less than 2 hours. I mostly followed it to a T with a few things I found made it easier, which were: I pulled the upper ball joint instead of messing with removing the upper control arm. It's easier crank the wheel about 3/4 over before even jacking it up (this a later step that is mentioned in the instructions). Having it cranked over makes the CV axle A LOT easier to remove. I also needed a little more drop from the lower control arm, so I removed the lower sway bar end link nut. If you get too far into it like I did once and forget to crank the wheel, you can remove the tie rod to get the clearance you need; or this might be preferred by you. Remember to always have a jack handy to position the lower control arm where you need it, I found I needed it in several positions to make it easier. I found it easier to have another jack (I borrowed my friends transmission jack) to raise the diff into place also.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=53863

Just make sure you are putting the right ratio back in. The JY gave me a 4.10 and I needed a 3.73, and it was AWD; not a fun thing to find out later.

If you have any questions, let me know.