Front axles differences

[Cblev323]

Does anyone know the difference in the front axles from 98-02 and 03+?

trying to get a parts list together for my conversion and on fords site and Oreilly’s there seems to be a difference. Don’t want to screw up and pick up a front diff from say a 00’ and grab same year axles and then need the newer style or part #. This will be going into an 04 edge

 

[pjtoledo]

you mean the aluminum axle assembly?
I have 4 from various years, the only difference I noticed was one had a plastic bushing/bearing on the passenger tube. the others had a roller bearing.
and of course gear ratios.

after reading the post again:

the axle shafts come in 2 flavors, the outer CV is different between the pulse vacuum hubs and the live axles.
pulse hubs 98-late 00, live axles from 01 on.
I'm not sure if the actual shafts are different.

look them up on NAPA, go to their "buyers guide" tab, it will list all the years the part is compatible with.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Is this something we need a tech article on?

 

[pjtoledo]

there are a couple articles in the tech section
oddly the first one I pulled up had a disconnect on the pass tube
that doesn't seem right, wouldn't it only apply to a full time transfer case????

 

[don4331]

Disconnect on the pass tube would be a '95-96 Explorer with BW1354

It was probably Ford's best idea on how to disengage the hubs- very similar to the CAD front axles on a Dodge/Jeeps.​

​

The actual Dana 35 is identical from '98-'11.* The CV axles are different between '98-'00 - the outer ends clip into hub, and '01-11** which bolt in.

* As noted there are subtle difference between plastic bushings/roller bearing and the spider gears are different sizes (just keep the one the carrier came with).

** The '08-11 CV axles are fractionally shorter (about 1/4") as when Ford lowered the Rangers in '08, the travel was reduced and they could save a little each axle. (And when you are making 100k, it adds up). The newer axles work in older truck, you just won't be in middle of travel.

 

[Cblev323]

I needed up finding another thread late last night about the differences. There is only MM differences in lengths according to the parts websites. So from everything I have grasped over the last couple of days is that if I’m wanting to do manual locking hubs I need to go with 98-00 model axles and spindles/knuckles and the front differential is the same from 98-11?

Has anyone ever used car-parts.com?

 

[Cblev323]

Which is going to bring up another question that some of you may know off top of your head which I can always cross reference but gonna do it the easy way and ask.

Other than the spindles being different from 2nd to 4wd are both upper and lower a-arms the same? I’m thinking there shouldn’t be a difference in them but thought I would throw it out there anyways.

 

[sgtsandman]

The front suspension between RWD and 4X4 are very different because of the spring system used in them.

It is possible the upper control arms are the same but I doubt it. It’s been too long since I looked at a RWD front suspension to say 100% no.

 

[Cblev323]

The front suspension between RWD and 4X4 are very different because of the spring system used in them.

It is possible the upper control arms are the same but I doubt it. It’s been too long since I looked at a RWD front suspension to say 100% no.

Did a 98 have coil spring set up? I was thinking from 98+ Was a torsion bar setup

 

[sgtsandman]

Did a 98 have coil spring set up? I was thinking from 98+ Was a torsion bar setup

RWD ‘98s had coil springs. The 4X4s are all torsion bar from ‘98 on. Ford needed to make room for the half shafts and the springs would be in the way with a double wishbone suspension.

‘97 and before had twin beam with springs. The differential and axle shafts were part of the beams in the 4x4 models. So springs weren’t a problem.

 

[Cblev323]

Ok. I didn’t realize that about the 2WD on a 98 model still having springs up from. I knew the pre 98 models were spring the. Went to the I-beam configuration. I did go back to cross reference the control arms and sway bars and the numbers match on 99+

 

[pjtoledo]

except the 2wd Edge models, they have torsion bar suspensions and the same upper control arm as a 4wd.
both upper control arms will bolt onto the frame, BUT the ball joint stud is different. so they are not interchangeable.
the coil one is also shorter.

the difference is really coil vs torsion bar, which mostly follows 2wd vs 4wd and Edge is the exception.

 

[don4331]

@Cblev323:

Our colleague @sgtsandman isn't aware of the whole plot here: That you are converting from '04 Edge (the 2wd with torsion bars) to a 4wd.

As we covered in the other post, the upper a-arms ofthe Edge have a different the ball joint in the 2wd torsion suspension than the 4wd torsion suspension. You must use the appropriate a-arm/ball joint for the knuckle you are using. (Technically, on the driver's side, you don't need the whole arm it is 2 piece design, just the adjustable part outwards.

When I pull front suspension in the yard, it is easiest to just unbolt the a-arms. Getting ball joints to separate is PIA in the yard. Then back in shop (climate controlled, I separate as required. And return any unnecessary parts for future credit (or store for the next one I fix up).​

I'm still confused as to why you want to manual hubs so bad.

They aren't near as strong and the fuel economy difference isn't measurable.​

And replacement hubs for '98-'00 are expensive as they were limited production and getting more and more rare these days.​

I've used car-part a few times, i.e. when I wanted parts for my F-150 (trailer tow mirrors); it is too new to be able to get parts from the Pick-n-Pulls. Pretty good luck so far.

 

[Cblev323]

@Cblev323:

Our colleague @sgtsandman isn't aware of the whole plot here: That you are converting from '04 Edge (the 2wd with torsion bars) to a 4wd.

As we covered in the other post, the upper a-arms ofthe Edge have a different the ball joint in the 2wd torsion suspension than the 4wd torsion suspension. You must use the appropriate a-arm/ball joint for the knuckle you are using. (Technically, on the driver's side, you don't need the whole arm it is 2 piece design, just the adjustable part outwards.

When I pull front suspension in the yard, it is easiest to just unbolt the a-arms. Getting ball joints to separate is PIA in the yard. Then back in shop (climate controlled, I separate as required. And return any unnecessary parts for future credit (or store for the next one I fix up).​

I'm still confused as to why you want to manual hubs so bad.

They aren't near as strong and the fuel economy difference isn't measurable.​

And replacement hubs for '98-'00 are expensive as they were limited production and getting more and more rare these days.​

I've used car-part a few times, i.e. when I wanted parts for my F-150 (trailer tow mirrors); it is too new to be able to get parts from the Pick-n-Pulls. Pretty good luck so far.

so how would I get the factory PVM style hubs to work if I’m going with a manual bw1354 transfer case? I would think it would be a complete nightmare to try to get the electric version to work. Maybe I should have been a little more clear on the original post of everything that was going on.

Your saying that the control arms from a 99+ are the same but the ball joints themselves are different? That’s great stuff to know because I am wanting to get everything on hand before I start.

 

[don4331]

Why do you need PVM hubs? The '01-11 Rangers use "full time" hubs, whether they have manual or electric transfer cases.

In '01-11 Rangers the front axle is "live" all the time, spinning the front differential, the front drive shaft, the transfer case front output shaft and chain. But the output gear isn't engaged so no power is sent to the front axle. Ford engineers determined that it wasn't worth disconnecting the hubs in a CV joint axle. And that holds true for '22 Rangers, Broncos & F-150s. Only if you get into SuperDuty trucks can you find manual hubs anymore.​

​

Note: "Full time" hubs bolt into PVH knuckles without issue and they cost about 20% less than the equivalent PVH hub. (I spend more on hubs, because I travel to remote locations without cell coverage, and wheel bearing failure isn't something that you can ignore).​

​

I'm saying the a-arms from a '98+ 4WD are almost the same - the ball joint in the a-arm is different.

Given how hard this is to explain to you and you have a basic understanding, it will be impossible for you to explain to the parts guy which ball joint you need. And then there is the trouble of removing and reinstalling the ball joint.​

You want to get '98+ 4WD upper a-arms to replace your Edge 2WD torsion suspension ones.​

​

The lower ones in your truck will work just fine.​