From Good to Bad to Ugly (not starting)

[Cookie_88STX]

Hi all... Cookies proud owner here. 1988 Ranger STX. She was running like a dream after replacing the alternator, spark plugs, and some frayed wires. Then started running a bit rough and lurching, back firing and struggling uphill. Luckily she made it up and I could roll down home to the other side. She would also die idling at each stop sign. Very troubling. Also I'll add I'm a novice in this field, and have some pretty helpful neighbors learning as I go.

I thought it was the MAP sensor (looking at threads here) so I pulled it and tried to start and it turned over and died. I connected a new one, nothing. Reconnected the old one. - also nothing. That was a while ago so I can't exactly recall what else if anything I tried.

Tried the 50/50 test and determine it was probably a fuel issue. Come to find out, my inertia switch was bypassed - pretty sure it's faulty and that's why one of the previous owners did that....I digress.

I continue on, swap out the fuel pump & filter (one by accident, one on purpose - I said I was a novice, right? ) I was very hopeful. But still nothing. Just revving not turning over or even trying. Tried to turn the key to kick on the fuel pump and didn't hear anything - but I don't know what I'm supposed to hear either. Disconnected the relay and it was full of like gummy stuff. I'm guessing it was applied to attempt to make an electrical connection and that this might be my issue. However, instead of reading threads on similar issues and trying others' solutions I thought I'd post to see what y'all thought. Now when I try to start there's no more rev just loud - harmful sounding clicks coming from the area near the relay... battery tested good - there is also a slow draw so the battery is usually unplugged.

I attached a picture of the relay and also around it since it seems there are a bunch of homeless plugs.

Thanks in advance, I really miss rolling around in Cookie and want to get her back on the road.

 

[tw205]

That gooie stuff if dried die electric gel. It normal just old. It protects from corrosion. So when you try to start you just hear clicks? That’s an indication of a bad battery or dirty battery connections. Do your lights work? Bright? When you try to start do the lights stay on or go out?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Start with checking fuses. All of them, under the hood and in the cab under the dash on the drivers side. I’ve had random issues more than once from a blown fuse. May not be the problem, but it’s a good place to start.

Loud clicking from the solenoid and no start, well, there’s three things that can be. Battery is weak, solenoid is faulty, or starter is bad. Bonus would be a problem with the grounds. I don’t fully trust battery tests at parts stores after having a frozen battery with shorted plates test good. You will need a decent multimeter anyway if you’re going to mess with the electrical anyway, so get one. Test the voltage of the battery, hold the probes on for a few minutes and note any changes. Best to do this with the battery disconnected. If the voltage stays pretty stable and over 12 volts then the battery is probably good.

Now you can move to the solenoid. Be sure it’s in park or neutral for this and don’t stand in front of the truck. Use an old/junk screw driver to jump the big posts on the solenoid. If it cranks, the solenoid is likely the culprit. If it doesn’t crank, the starter is suspect. Most parts stores can test things like starters.

Grounds. Well, there should be one down to the frame in the passenger wheel well and one attached to the side of the block through the passenger wheel well. Check that both are there and in good condition, pull the ends off and clean them up, check the condition of the wire. I had problems where a ground had corroded inside the insulation and was causing all sorts of random issues. I have taken to making my own out of welding cable.

 

[Uncle Gump]

So as far as what you should hear with a Key ON cycle...

The fuel pump relay should click and you should hear a slight hum/buzz/whirl from the fuel tank filler for about 1 to 2 seconds. That would be the fuel pump priming the system. You won't hear it again until you cycle the key the next time. The pump won't run until the ECM knows the engine has started.

Seems you may have a couple problems to me. Fuel system and starting system. You have to begin with the starting system. I'm guessing you've been cranking the engine trying to figure it out and the battery is low... charge it up and prove out the battery as good.

If you have a DMM... google "voltage drop testing". Learn and take that knowledge and your DMM to the truck for testing. You should be able to isolate any areas of resistance in the battery cables and connections easily.

 

[gaz]

Though the running rough and back firing sound like a fuel issue;

Is this an automatic or a manual transmission?