Friend Alternator wire

[SwaintaN]

Fried Alternator wire

Second time this has happened... burnt the alternator wire up. new battery, new starter solenoid, 130 amp Alternator (new last year), from Alt to starter solenoid, in the middle is a 80amp ANL fuse, this is all 4ga wire. Well he wire on the inside of the ANL fuse block keeps burning, its on the side headed towards the solenoid. 4ga wire not big enough? or what?

 

[SwaintaN]

some what of an idea... and more info... doesnt matter which way i point the anl fuse no anl fuse holder it does it again in same spot.. but not popping the fuse

 

[H311RzR]

the connector (fuse block) for the fuse may be to small...there may not be enough surface area at the connector to hold the amps...therefore it is acting like the fuse and burning up the "weakest link"

 

[SwaintaN]

Just now noticed spelling error. This auto fix can be tricky. Fried wire not friend wire :-D

So how do I fix this problem? Run a 0 Gauge instead of a 4 gauge from ANL fuse to starter solenoid. Or run a 0 gauge from Alternator straight to battery?

 

[H311RzR]

if the wire isnt burning up then the wire is fine...same with the fuse. Unless i understood you wrong it sounds like your saying that the connector in the fuse block is burning? and if so then the fuse block cant handle the current.

 

[SwaintaN]

Ill go into a little more detail.

Alternator is a HO Alternator putting out 130 amps (came from Adv) the packaging said it needed to have a 4 ga minimum wire. So I have a gold plated Ring Terminal on the End of the 4 ga wire that connects to the Alternator Stud. That wire runs into an ANL Fuse Holder containing a 80 amp Fuse (was told to go lower then amp out put), the wire on the inside of the ANL fuse is cut back to recommendations and bolted in. Wire coming out is 4 ga wire (this is the wire that the rubber turns black from being burned and the copper wires start to fall apart and stick together), cut back bare inside the ANL fuse holder, then at the other end is a Gold plated Ring Terminal, that connects to the Starter Solenoid.

Was trying to find a picture but couldnt find it.

 

[SwaintaN]

Sorry not to good at paint, the Gold/Yellow is the ring terminals, they have rubber around them but where they connect to the rods.

The green would be bare stripped back wire connected into the ANL fuse and Battery Terminal.

The one circled in blue is the one that keeps burning up, right there where its circled and now where else

edit: here is the anl fuse holder I use and 80 amp fuse.

 

[fordman2121]

When I put a 130 amp on my bii I wentr right to the starter solenid, no fuse. I have 0 problems.

 

[SwaintaN]

see i thought about that, but there was a fuseable link wire thats stock.. mine was no good (my fault i busted it) so i replaced it with this set up.

old pics of stock wire

 

[H311RzR]

Wait.....isnt the single wire alt. supposed to connect to the same pole on the solenoid as the battery....I dont have time to run over and look at mine.... I believe that you may be overloading the wire cause the current has no place to go....unless im completely wrong. . . One pole has the starter connected to it...so it only gets power when the key is in the "start" position and then when the key is in the run position the connection is broken to the starter...therefore the power from the alt. would have no ground to complete the circuit and would overheat the wire burning it up......ill have to look at my bronco to remember...as i dont want to do all the research again....

 

[SwaintaN]

There is no ground on the alternator, its just the Power Wire and a push on with two little wires. Its on the same pole as the battery connector and under hood fuse box. my drawn picture is just bad. Then the push on wire at the top and another little wire to the right.

Alternator Wire, Battery Wire, Fuse Box wire all on the same pole.

 

[Charles]

I'm confused. are you saying you are putting a fuse in line between the battery and the alternator?

As far as burning up at that point, that's fairly common with fuse holders. You've got a bad connection or high resistance that isn't suppose to be there. Or the fuse holder is just cheap and can't handle that power. My son plays with amps, speakers, radios constantly and he is always bringing stuff like that to me. I can't find any reason for them to burn up or melt that way except that is has to be some type of resistance there that shouldn't be.

Same concept with aluminum wire.

 

[SwaintaN]

Correct I have a fuse between alternator and starter solenoid. There was a fusible link there that was stock. I removed that cause it got damaged. Without a fusible link/ fuse, if something like the wire would burn up it would burn up the alternator. Hints why I got it there. I used to install Car Audio for a living, that is why I cant figure this out. Because normally a burn up was a negative problem. However there isnt a negative problem that I can find. For being a cheap fuse holder, that its not, I try not to use cheap material because of the fact.. cheap stuff is a pos and waste. Once the storms stop Im going to try and put it directly to the battery and see if thatll stop it. Might even try upgrading the wires, just 0 gauge wire is so expensive and not something i wanna waste.

 

[SwaintaN]

Ok updated pics

ANL fuse holder w/ fuse in (straight outa truck)

Closer look at wire (i was wrong, its the wire going into the ANL fuse holder coming from the Alternator)

cover slid off, can see the burn damage

the fuse didnt just POP it FRIED

 

[SwaintaN]

0 Gauge Wire with Solder Terminals into a 200amp ANL digital fuse.

so far no problems, started right up, no drain that i can see...