Frame Rivets

[Hawker Driver]

Might anyone here have reference to as to where I can find the correct rivets to splice a new rear frame on to a 2011 ranger. I know that they are hot pressed and all I need to know is where to find the correct rivets.

 

[pjtoledo]

Ford replacement procedures are to use threaded fasteners. I'll see if I can find it in a manual.

yes I know threads clamp and rivets locate and clamp.

if you want rivets I would try an industrial supplier.

 

[Curious Hound]

I think I would use fine thread grade 8 bolts and nuts. Then a few tack welds along the seams to maintain location if you're worried about it moving. Properly torqued fasteners provide a lot of clamping force and, therefore a lot of friction between the parts. I really don't think anything will move.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I bolted mine, think I hogged everything out to half inch and loaded the grade 8 bolts. Not really sure it’s absolutely necessary to do rivets unless you’re doing a show truck or something where everything has to be perfect. Think I used washers under the head and flange nuts. I even put grease between the frame sections when I put it together. No evidence that anything moved.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

What i did is drill the holes up to exact size of a 1/2" bolt shank. Then get bolts long enough that the shank supports both sides of the frames. I used washers to take up space if the shank protruded to far for the locknut to clamp properly.

 

[Snoranger]

I have this from Ford for a ‘96 Ranger. I’m not sure if their procedure has changed since then.

 

[19Walt93]

When I replaced my rear spring hangers I used grade 8 bolts. I drilled the old rivets ad then cut them off with an air chisel, then I rand a drill through the holes, followed by a tap, threaded the bolts in, and secured them with nuts. That was probably over kill for just spring hangers but if you do something better than it needs to be done, you'll never know. If you don't do it well enough, you'll find out for sure.

 

[Hawker Driver]

When I replaced my rear spring hangers I used grade 8 bolts. I drilled the old rivets ad then cut them off with an air chisel, then I rand a drill through the holes, followed by a tap, threaded the bolts in, and secured them with nuts. That was probably over kill for just spring hangers but if you do something better than it needs to be done, you'll never know. If you don't do it well enough, you'll find out for sure.

I ordered the front spring hangers from Ford for the vehicle. Those hangars came with the bolts for attachment and instructions how to drill out the old rivets. The only rivets that I want to replace are the top and bottom two on each side. I have found rivets that I think are close. I am checking metallurgy on them now. If they fail the test, I will use Grade 8 bolts installed the stressed aircraft way.

 

[pjtoledo]

I ordered the front spring hangers from Ford for the vehicle. Those hangars came with the bolts for attachment and instructions how to drill out the old rivets. The only rivets that I want to replace are the top and bottom two on each side. I have found rivets that I think are close. I am checking metallurgy on them now. If they fail the test, I will use Grade 8 bolts installed the stressed aircraft way.

keep typing, we are curious what that method is.

 

[XLTsplash]

When I worked at a Ford dealership there was a TSB to fix creaking and popping noises from the frame. Ford ha you remove the frame rivets and replace them with bolts to stop the noise. I think the TSB was 94-8-13.

 

[Hawker Driver]

keep typing, we are curious what that method is.

Aviation Way; Get shouldered Grade 8 bolts with the shoulder being the same as the rivet grip range. Then drill the hole to a few thousands smaller than the bolt shank diameter. Put the bolts in liquid nitrogen to shrink them down to the hole diameter. Drop them in and torque them down. Just as good as a rivet.

By the way, I found the rivets at fastenal. Top and bottom will be a factory application!