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Four wheel drive starting to tick me off


BigBird

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2010
Messages
50
City
Texas
Vehicle Year
2000
Transmission
Automatic
Ok, I bought my '00 Mazda B4000 a couple of years ago with no real plans to go wheeling in it, just got a deal on it (low mileage and low price). The 4hi and 4lo light have flashed since I've had it so I am in the process of troubleshooting it with the help of the forums and the tech section.
Today I unplugged the batt and let it sit to reset the ecm/computer fault, when I reconnected it no flashing and I could hear the relay in the selector switch as I changed from 2wd to 4wd lo and 4wd hi but no sound from the shift motor at the transfer case. After a couple minutes the flashing came back so I climbed under the truck and unplugged the shift motor and cleaned the pins on the connector and replugged it as well as fiddiling around with the vacume hoses at the hubs, and disconnected the batt again. After replugging the batt the flashing was still there (may not have left it unplugged long enough), I switched it through the modes (2,4hi,4lo) and backed out, I drove it down the road (never getting over about 25-30mph) and after a hundred yards or so the front end (I think the left hub) was whining and then the front end made a clunk sound then back to normal. I guess the vacume hubs tried to engage? Maybe the transfer case tried to shift? I am going to get the manual hubs in a week and go from there but I have seen a ton of different things people say have fixed this (btw I have none of the other symptoms like the dome light and windows not working) so what do the experts say is the next thing to try? Also, do the Hays or Chilton manuals show the location of the speed sensors?
Last issue, I cranked my torsions up to level it but the tension screws were different, drivers side only had 5/8" to bottom (which I did) and the pass side had 1-3/16" and I used roughly half to bring it up level with the other side but still 1/2" lower than the back. Is this normal, to be different? I have never done anything to a torsion bar suspension, I have only lifted my leaf spring trucks.....makes me want to do a SAS and be done with it.
 
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I hear ya dude my 98 does the same thing. Adding manual hubs fixed mine for about 3 months and then the lights began to blink again. I thought the problem a was bad piece in my shift motor so I took it apart and it was fine. So now I'm thinking it's a relay somewhere behind the dash and I am really getting sick of it. If I fix the problem something else will go bad in the electric system in another 3 months. There is no way to tell if a relay is bad so it's just process of elimination. I think there is 3? or more relays just for the 4x4 and relays are like $50 and a pain in the ass to get too. I've been researching about adding a manual transfer case and I'm really considering doing it. It will be reliable and pay for itself over the span of a year compared to fixing the stock 4x4 system. I would recommend just checking the fuses in the cab and under the hood. EVERY single one. You never know it may be easy as that. If all is good, take apart your shift motor. CLICKY. If that's not it buy a new 4x4 switch or if you have a way to test it do it. Start with the stuff that will cost you little or no money cuz people buy $200 worth of new equipment and the problem was a switch or something that should've been checked first.

As for the torsion bars, I'm pretty sure the screws are supposed to be the same. Why would Ford make them different? So the previous owner probably messed with them. I would make sure that the passenger and driver side are level with each other. It doesn't matter if the front is level with the back it just looks a little funny. My truck sags in the front as well. If you have the ability and a little money to do a SAS I'd definitely do it. Knock out two birds with one stone by getting rid of torsion bars and put in a manual T-Case. Hope I helped you out some.
 
The difference in torsion bars may have been accounting for the "Ranger lean" Once they get some age on them they like to lean to the left.
 
So to correct the sag (from age) could I get the stiffer springs from, say, a V8 explorer and install them to give it the "leveling" it needs without putting exessive tension on the stock ones?I have read that it works on the explorers and the torsion bars are essintially the same dimensions (length and mount co nfig), correct?
 
So no one has any ideas/thoughts/advice?
 
ok this happened to me too. flashing lights and the dome light wouldn't work. What you need to do is look through your fuses and find the broken fuse. Somehow you have a short somewhere between the dome light and or the windows. Mine was the dome light, i could the cords and replaced the fuse and it works great now, just now dome light. Hope that helps.
PM if u have any other questions, i just recently figured out that out. It took me a winter and a lot of headaches lol
 
The only problem I have (had) was that the 4WD didn't work. None of the other symptoms, I believe it is the shift engage motor.
My passenger door lock actuator was bad so I had to manually lock/unlock it and now the drivers door actuator is bad too. I guess I will have to get two now.
 
i have a 2000 ranger and i have the same problem with the 4wd lights blinking.i dont think adding manuel hubs will fix it because your tcase needs to engage for the hubs to work.as for the door locks just get on ebay fixed mine for like 80 bucks
 
i know someone that has an explorer that dont this it a module, and the module on the explorer was in behind the dash hard to get to.
 
4x4 lights flashing

hey man just an opinion from experience have had many problems with customers trucks have come to one conclusion. the shifter motor 99% of the time. its expensive i know but by the time you replace relays and such its a small price to pay. exspecialy when your on the clock. not being cocky its just my time is worth money.:headbang:
 

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