ford 2.9 timing problems???

[dagit1902]

Hi I have a 1987 ford ranger with a 2.9 v6 that is driving me nuts. This truck is very hard to start hot or cold. Here is a long list of things I have replace brand new!
map sensor
plugs
wires
cap
rotor
oxygen sensor only has one
intake air sensor
EGR valve
distributor assembly
TFI on the back of the distributor
both fuel pumps in tank and on frame and fuel filter
coolant temp sensor the one for the computer and the one for the gauge
throttle position sensor
air filter
coil
alternator and battery
I pulled the codes and the computer is all over the place from, spout to map sensor. Even replaced the computer, and it still did the same thing. Checked the fuel pressure and it's at 40 psi. when it runs at idle It makes a little pop noise from the exhaust every now and again, but when it's going down the road it gets up and goes, no hesitation, runs great. Let it sit, and it cranks and cranks then starts to fire, then finally starts. I have tried cycling the key and that doesn't help at all. I put a timing light on it and the closer I get to 10 degrees before TDC (with spout connector pulled), the truck runs like crap.The further I get away from any markings on pully the better it runs. The truck has 102,000 on it original. I know this because it still had the factory spark plug wires on it from 1987. They were marked and every little thing I took off of it and replaced said motocraft on it. when I replace the distributor I put it at Tdc on the pully and the rotor pointing a number one installed the new one the same way. The thing that started it all was I went to start the truck one day and all it would do was crank fuel pumps kicked on but it would just crank checked all the fuses all but the IDM resistor was good Cut it out (really hate doing this like to keep every thing original) and wired it together and the truck started took a little but started and ran I would take it to a mechanic But
the mechanics where I live look at it and tell me I dont Know or you got it this far you can do the rest ( that was for a rain water leak into the cab) and cahrge me 500 bucks I could do that my self and keep my money Im really lost on this one. The other day I pulled it back apart figuring I must have put it on exhaust stroke becsue I got it to start right up with the tfi about touching the valve cover took it down the road no power and some pinging if I hit the gas hard. So I removed the distributor again tryed again and had it puffing thro the intake swaped it back and still the same hard to start and way out of range on the pully I dont think its the cam chain only beacuse I pulled the first spark plug and rotated the crank and the marks line up on the tc mark with the piston at top dead center Like I said Im really lost on this one thanks for everyones time and input

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Pull the dist cap and turn the crank with a wrench both ways until the rotor turns if the crank moves more than a couple degrees befor the rotor turns you need a timing chain and new gears.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

After you get the chain in before you move the crank put the distributor in where the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug tower. If the dizzy dont go all the way down guess where it would be when it does and click the starter as you lightly press on the dizzy until it drops then put it back on TDC and see if it points at the #1 tower and you have plenty of rotation on the dizzy in both directions.

 

[dagit1902]

thanks so much for your help I finally got it running again. I also did what you told me I cranked the engine over by hand and my girl friend watched the rotor. she said it moved with every little hair I moved the crank. I rotated the engine both ways but the funny thing is when I pulled the dizzy and put it back in and lined it up with number one on the cap, It would not fire. so then I moved it again and now its pointing right at the fire wall and starts and runs tried to put it a 10* before tdc and it throws a fit. put it on the big notch the last one on the pully, and it likes it there. and yes I did have the spout connector out when trying to put it at 10 btdc. I also looked at the bottom pully rubber and its all intact and looks good. the only other thing I can think of is it might have jumped timing. so If I do go ahead and replace the timing chain and gears what all has to come off the motor and what can stay on or in place in order to access the timing chain and gears?