• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Floor board liner


Terry

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Messages
615
City
Gardnerville, Nevada
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
I am gathering up my supplies to finish reconditioning my floors in my truck. What did you use to replace the material that was glued to the original floor. Does the stock material do anything more than sound absorption?
 
its nvh and heat.


the dynamat type stuff...the thicker stuff will exceed its functions if your installing new rug.




i just clean it off where i have to work on stuff and leave it steel where i fix it and throw a regular rubber floor mat or some sort of matting down....no carpet in my pig.

i just pull the mat cover things and hose it out.
 
I did some research and found some rolled house roof sealer that is 15.00 for a 6" x 25 foot roll. I can post the name when I get home. I removed all the bad metal "rot" and cleaned off the rust as best as I could. Got some sound deadening paint like "por-15" at summit. We have one of the three stores in the country in Reno witch is 50 miles from my house. I cleaned the floor real good and put a coat on yesterday. I will put another coat on this afternoon. I pulled the carpet out if my 86 extended cab ranger that I am going to scrap and will put it in my new "87" truck. I think the seal coat and the carpet pad should be enough to quiet it down. I will be putting sound deadening in the rest of the truck. I am also adding the tilt steering column overhead clock into my standard cab. Stereo is next.
 
Last edited:
Krylon rust tough 5 coats and iceshield. Leave the sound deadener on the floor except in the valleys where it will crack if you push on it. Clean it out of those spots and then paint it nice and thick for 5 coats and then when dried (about a week) iceshield right over it. That alone matches the volume as if you had the carpet in. Put the carpet in and im sure youll be a bit more quiet.

I avoid carpet just for future issues.
 
I removed the factory sound deadener in the floor board area. I left it on the transmission hump. I cut out the rust to solid metal. After I removed the loose rust, I applied my first coat of KBS rust seal. I will put at least one more coat. After the second coat I am planning on fiber glassing the holes up. I will apply another coat of rust seal over the whole area as well as the patches. The only reason I am putting carpeting in is the rubber mats were wasted an I am a cheap ass so I am using the carpet out of my truck I am scrapping.
 
i thought about glassing the whole floor...top and bottom with gel at least. they sad it wont work:dunno:


your truck must be from michi-consin-ota-hio-york-ada originally.



my floor completely disintegrated and my torqueboxes and tie bridging failed.


it sucked fixing all that with rusted rotten scrap i had laying around. i wouldnt use and of the gooey roofing stuff or icegaurd unless it was just to get by for a winter.


i will make a stainless torque and main structure eventually for a floor.. i been running this pig 20 something years....you would think i would smarten up and scrap it at some point:icon_twisted:
 
i thought about glassing the whole floor...top and bottom with gel at least. they sad it wont work:dunno:


your truck must be from michi-consin-ota-hio-york-ada originally.



my floor completely disintegrated and my torqueboxes and tie bridging failed.


it sucked fixing all that with rusted rotten scrap i had laying around. i wouldnt use and of the gooey roofing stuff or icegaurd unless it was just to get by for a winter.

i will make a stainless torque and main structure eventually for a floor.. i been running this pig 20 something years....you would think i would smarten up and scrap it at some point:icon_twisted:

I don't know who "they" are? I grew up at the beach in Southern California and patched shitloads of sail boats and surfboards without a problem. I would not do it for big holes but mine are not that big. My 86 ranger lasted a long time until it fianily needed everything si I understand keeping them forever. My wife gives me shit for fixing up old cars and trucks but I enjoy it and they don't cost as much as new cars.
 
they....are the sand rail guys i deal with here.



for my truck, the amount of stress and flex i have would make a mess all the time....but they have some really forgiving stuff...like urethane almost they work with now so it seemed the best way to go to me to keep the rust at bay. the fenders are pretty flexy on the one particiular guys bug which prompted the idea. he had them glassed to steel panels for mounting.


if it were more fire resistant i would just do it and see what come of it....
 
they....are the sand rail guys i deal with here.



for my truck, the amount of stress and flex i have would make a mess all the time....but they have some really forgiving stuff...like urethane almost they work with now so it seemed the best way to go to me to keep the rust at bay. the fenders are pretty flexy on the one particiular guys bug which prompted the idea. he had them glassed to steel panels for mounting.


if it were more fire resistant i would just do it and see what come of it....

I have 3 vw bugs. One of them is a baja. All the fenders, hood and such are fiberglass. I can see their point but If the floor in your rig flexed enough to mess up fiberglass you might be in deep shit.
 
I have 3 vw bugs. One of them is a baja. All the fenders, hood and such are fiberglass. I can see their point but If the floor in your rig flexed enough to mess up fiberglass you might be in deep shit.

it twists up pretty good. i have some old pics here to give you an idea of the stress levels before it was rotted out and still in....errrr....mint condition:D


2167330090_large.jpg


2167330056_large.jpg



i have rolled it a couple of times wheeling so the roof is fawked up a bit and the door jambs and a pillars and shit arent right. i have planned to extend the cab back 6-8 inches but just the wall/window not the formed sides and it will fit in my current headache rack untill i cut all that offandbuild a rollcage.. just planned to do that with a non rotten cab:D now i am considering doing it to this rotten pos just for the experience. finding and the cost of procuring a good cab isnot in my budget at the moment so i am open to fiberglass options if you have experience there....i am limited with it. for non structural i think it is the only way to go for rust repair for like cab corners and stuff...
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top