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Fliping spring perches explorer 8.8


djschick88

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2008
Messages
162
City
Tyler Texas
Vehicle Year
1995
Transmission
Manual
I need to switch the explorer 8.8 from the sprung under to sprung over and was wondering what the best way to weld the perches back on stick or mig? And what wire or rod should i use? Thanks in advance.

-DJ
 
Stick or MIG will both work fine. Just be sure to use a 220V machine that will give you some decent penetration.
Also go in 1" increments so you're less likely to warp the axle tubes from the heat.

I used .035" solid wire when I did mine (MIG). .030 will work too, just needs a bit higher wire speed.
 
Which set-up do you weld better with? Do you own both types and if so, what ones. I'm thinking that it may be better to have someone with more experience do this for you. That said, IMO flux core mig is easier than stick for a beginner. Practice welding some metal the same thickness as your perch and then knock it back and forth with a hammer. If it breaks off in the weldment then you need more practice or someone else to do it for you.
Another option is to do as I did on my race truck, check post #88, #90. It's homemade from a description of an aftermarket piece made for lowering rangers.;
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79003&page=6
You may be able to buy such a piece already built.
Good luck,

Richard
 
No i wont be welding this but i read there was a rod that worked better than others when welding on an axle but maybe im confusing it with something else.
 
F y i :

I cleaned the pieces rear good with a wire wheel, then used a 110v mig to spot them, then had em professionally finished, and the professional welder said that I had gotten great penetration:icon_welder: & could of finished it myself. I personally wanted to make sure they weren't goin anywhere.

My mig is a dual useage, I can use flux-core or gas, I personally like gas, flux-core seems to be the same as a stick welder without the rod.:dunno:

Do what you feel is best for you...................
 
No i wont be welding this but i read there was a rod that worked better than others when welding on an axle but maybe im confusing it with something else.

You might be thinking about the pumpkin which is cast steel, which cools alot faster than mild steel that the axle tubes are made from. The spring perches and the axle tubes are both mild steel (or some regular ol grade of steel) and don't require any fancy electrodes/rods, etc...

They're only spring perches anyway, so except for axle-wrap thay shouldn't see anything other than compressive force ie. they're sandwiched (more or less) between the leaf spring and the axle tube.
 
You might be thinking about the pumpkin which is cast steel, which cools alot faster than mild steel that the axle tubes are made from. The spring perches and the axle tubes are both mild steel (or some regular ol grade of steel) and don't require any fancy electrodes/rods, etc...

They're only spring perches anyway, so except for axle-wrap thay shouldn't see anything other than compressive force ie. they're sandwiched (more or less) between the leaf spring and the axle tube.

Thats probably what i was thinking of thanks for clearing that up for me. I can weld with both but i have a friend thats a welder that will do it for a beer and a pizza so im going to go with him...:icon_welder:
 
They see mroe than compressive force, everytime you take off and brake your have forward and backwards force on the springs, in a rotational kinda way due to shape. You have alot of lateral stresses from turns, maybe not huge but they are there. Leaf springs are the major player in preventing lateral movement in trucks, so the stress is transferred to the perches as well.
 
Set the axle on jack stands, get yourself a magnetic angle finder, rotate the pinion up to 6-7 degrees then set your spring perches at 0 degrees.
 
so once i find 6 degrees then take the angle finder off and put the perches on the axle set the angle finder ontop of them and find zero?
 
What I did>>>>

so once i find 6 degrees then take the angle finder off and put the perches on the axle set the angle finder ontop of them and find zero?
===============================
I installed my rearend by puttin the perches under it, puttin the U-bolts & brackets on loose enough to move it, then put my wheels & tires on, set it down so it had the weight of the truck on the springs, then climbed under it, put my magnetic degree finder on the pad for the stabilizer shock, then moved it to 2* negative since my truck is setup up for street/strip, then I spot welded it:icon_welder:, then removed the bed to finish weldin the perches.

Others may have do it different, as my boss who runs a 86 Mustang LX Coupe on the strip said he set his at 4* neg.......his Stang runs 6.30's off the trailer, all motor (406/PG):icon_surprised:
 

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